Lenin Peak Expedition. Climb Lenin Peak

Lenin Peak Expedition. Climb Lenin Peak

More info in Russian

Key information:

Duration of the tour: 22 days
The number of climbers in the group: 2-15
Elevation: 7134 m
Location: Kyrgyzstan
Lat/Lon: 39.34690°N/72.86920°E
Peculiarity: High altitude climbing, mountaineering
Season: July – August.
All inclusive GUIDED tours with guaranteed departure dates: Available
Maximum comfortable packs, ideal for entry-level climbers: Available
The cost of international flights:
 Not included
The cost of local flight: Included (In Bishkek – Bishkek packages only)
The cost of personal insurance: Not included
Personal equipment: Available at extra cost.
The development of the tour in accordance with customer’s requirements: Yes. Please note that we do not provide border permit without buying package.
The price of the complete basic package in 2024: 1350 USD/pax / 1000 USD/pax (self guided).
High-Altitude guide: Yes.
Guide services per day from C1: 150 USD / day, assault on the peak – 800 USD
Porters’ services, cost per kg in USD:
BC (3600m) – C1 (4400m) or C1 (4400m) – BC (3600m) – 3 USD.
C1 (4400m) – C2 (5300m) / C2 (5300m) – C1 (4400m) – 10 USD.
C2 (5300m) – C3 (6100m) / C3 (6100m) – C2 (5300m) – 12 USD.

Schedule on 2024:

June 8,15,27,29
July 1,3,5,7,9,11,13,14,15,16,17,19,20,21,23,24,25,26,27,28,29,31
August 2,3,5,6,7,8,10,11,13,14,15,17,18,20,22,23,24,26,28,29,31

Note: Please, write the date of your intended arrival at Lenin BC in your application form, and also the date of your return to Osh
Note: We provide group transfers staritng with 5 passengers in number. In case if you cannot apply for fixed dates of arrival/departures, you still have the option of requesting an individual transfer at additional charge


Supplier of services: ClimberCA International ConsortiumAbout Us
Telegram – https://t.me/ClimberCA
WhatsApp / Viber +7966 065-53-44
e-mail – your@climberca.com
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

See also:

– Fixed dates (Guided, joining based) More >>>>>
– Maximum comfortable packs, ideal for entry-level climbers. Services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled. More >>>>>

Lenin peak’s range climbing

Situated in the Pamirs on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tadjikistan, close to the borders with China and Afghanistan, Lenin Peak is one of five of 7000+ m tall summits in the former USSR. With its 7,134 meters it is the third highest summit among the others: Peak Communism (7,495m) and Korzhenevsky (7,105m), both in the Pamirs, and Peak Pobeda (7,439m) and Khan Tengri (7,010m) in the Tien Shan. If someone climbed all five, then got into the elite club of Russian climbers known as Snow Leopards. Lenin Peak is considered the most accessible of 7000+ m summits. There is a good road going almost to the foot of the peak. Also climbing Lenin Peak by the traditional route via Razdelnaya peak is almost no technical climbing involved.

Route Description

Base camp is situated on a raised meadow between two steep river valleys. The ground is a carpet of wild garlic and alpine flowers. From BC we head over the Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4,200m). The ascent usually takes 1-1.5 hours by a good path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. Then we descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. Further we should cross the river carefully. The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout at this time. Across the left moraine of glacier to the Lenin glacier (4,100m) and hike to camp 1 (4,400m).

From camp 1 at 4,400 meters, we cross the dry Lenin Glacier and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face). At 5,000 meters we traverse to the west and, ascending gently, we arrive at the rim of a large snow basin. We cross this, traversing beneath Razdelnaya Peak. A short climb up a scree/snow slope leads to camp 2 (5,300 m). There are a few crevasses on this section of the route but it is straightforward snow plodding. It is, however, a long and tiring day, and an early start is needed to avoid the worst effects of the sun.

Normally, the program of ascent to Lenin peak does not include the ascent to the peak Razdelnaya, but still … directly above camp 2 is an easy-angled couloir which leads to the north ridge of Razdelnaya Peak (6,148 meters). Initially the ridge is almost level, but as one approachs Razdelny Peak the angle steeples. The final 400 meter climb to the summit of Razdelny Peak is straight-forward but the effects of altitude make it hard work. The views from the summit are superb. To the north we can finally get the true perspective of the Alai Plain while to the south there are a multitude of snowy peaks. Peak Communism and Korzhenevsky dominate our view of the south Pamirs. Further east the Wakhan and Hindu Kush are clearly visible, and on a good day it is possible to make out Tirich Mir. From Razdelny Peak the ridge dog-legs to the west and drops down 48 meters to Razdelny Pass at 6,100 meters. It is here that we will make camp 3.

From camp 3 the whole of the summit ridge is visible. From here one has two options. Either to climb directly to the summit and back to camp 3 in one long day, or to place a fourth camp at about 6,400 meters. From camp 3 we follow the broad ridge to a plateau (the site of optional camp 4) at 6,400 meters. We traverse this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. We traverse this and rejoin the ridge just below the summit.

The summit at 7,134 meters is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakoram.

Sample program: 22 days

Day 1. Arrival to the city of Bishkek, accommodation at a local hotel.
After receiving baggage and passing customs control upon arrival at the Manas International Airport, you will be met by our representative, than you will be taken to a hotel.

Day 2. Flight to Osh. Transfer Osh – BC “Achik-Tash” (3600 m).
After an early breakfast, the driver will pick you up and take you to the morning flight Bishkek-Osh. In Osh, you will be met by our representative, and then on our transport you will be delivered to the Achik-Tash Base Camp. In the camp you will be met by the head or administrator of the camp, who will accommodate you and provide all the necessary information.

Day 3. Acclimatization at the Base Camp, a walk to the waterfall.
After breakfast – acclimatization walk. Return to dinner. After lunch, rest, checking high-altitude equipment.

Day 4. Acclimatization climb to the ridge of Petrovsky peak.
After breakfast, acclimatization hike to the ridge of Petrovsky peak. Ascent until we reach snow line, to a height of 4000 m. From the ridge, a breathtaking view of the Alai Valley and the tract Achik-Tash opens. Return to Base Camp for dinner. Rest, preparation for the transition to Camp 1.

Day 5. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).
After breakfast, exit to Camp 1. The luggage can be transported on a horseback (for an additional fee). From BC to «Lukovaya Polyana» – 1 hour way on foot, but can be reached by transport. Further, you go along a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the spur to the right of the Lenin glacier to Camp 1, approximate time 4-5 hours. Camp 1 is located on a moraine. Before reaching it, you must cross the river.

Day 6. Climbing the peak of Yukhin 5100 m or Home Peak 4700 m.
After breakfast you will go for ascent Yuhin Peak or Home Peak, the ascent is not technical and you don’t need special equipment. Overnight in C1.

Day 7. Reserve day. Preparation for the ascent.
Depending on your feeling and the weather. Rest. Climbing preparation. Preparation of the necessary equipment for climbing to Camp 2 (5300m).

Day 8. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).
From C1 to C2 they leave one hour before dawn to avoid heat and wet snow. As you crossed the moraine and approached the foot of the northern slope, it is necessary to move in a ligament and put on crampons. Further, rise in the center of the steep northern slope, to the left of the icefall, there are many ice cracks on the way. The most dangerous and difficult places are hung with a railing. In the upper part of the ascent, the route goes to the right, to the vast ice plateau called «Skovorodka». Cross the plateau from left to right. On the surface moraine at the base of the northwest ridge, at an altitude of 5300 m, is С2. Average time is 7-9 hours. Overnight in tents in Camp 2. Self cooking.

Day 9. Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).
Start at 9 o`clock in the morning. Movement in crampons and ligaments. As overcame a steep takeoff, the route goes to a gentle northwest ridge. Further, left along the ridge to a steep take-off of the Razdelnaya peak. C3 is located on the spacious dome of the peak at an altitude of 6100 m. From C2 to C3 it will take 4-6 hours. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking.

Day 10. Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m).
Early in the morning, you start descent from Camp 3 to Camp 1. Movement in crampons and ligaments. Lunch at Camp 1. After lunch, you go down to the base camp. Dinner at the base camp.

Day 11. Rest day.
Rest at the Base Camp.

Day 12. Preparation for the ascent.
Rest at the Base Camp, climbing preparation.

Day 13. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m).
After the acclimatization, the ascent requires less effort and time.

Day 14. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m).
Departure at 4 a.m. Ascent along the northern slope of Lenin peak. Movement in crampons, in ligaments, overcoming glacial cracks. After the acclimatization, the transition requires less effort and time. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self cooking.

Day 15. Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m).
Start at 9 o`clock in the morning. Immediately after the camp, a steep take-off on the ridge. Moving along a wide ridge and again abrupt take-off to the top of the peak Razdelnaya. Movement in crampons and ligaments. The average walking time is 4-6 hours. After the acclimatization, the transition requires less time and effort. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking. Preparing for the climb.

Day 16. Ascent to the top of Lenin peak 7134 m. And descent to the Camp 3 (6100 m).
Leaving Camp 3 before dawn. Movement in crampons. Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the steep take-off to the wide western ridge of Lenin Peak. Holding onto the left side of the ridge, move to the top. Having overcome a steep (45 degrees) icy take-off of 80 m in length, called a “knife”, and passing between the rocks, the route crosses the extensive gentle snow – the “plateau of skydivers” and goes out onto the gentle slope of rocky hills. There are no obvious directions, and in conditions of insufficient visibility it is easy to get lost. There is a small nust of Lenin of the top of the peak.

An important safety rule: if by 2 o`clock in the afternoon you have not reached the summit, you must immediately start descending to assault camp!

Day 17. Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m).
Early in the morning you start your descent from Camp 3 to Camp 1. Moving in crampons and in ligaments. Lunch at Camp 1. Rest.

Day 18. Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m).
Transfer to the Base Camp. The cargo can be sent by horse (extra charge). Solemn rewarding of the climbers in the Base Camp.

Day 19. Reserve day.
Reserve day in case of bad weather.

Day 20. Transfer BC “Achik-Tash” – Osh. Hotel accommodation.
After breakfast transfer to Osh city. There will be a lunchbox for lunch. Upon arrival, accommodation at the hotel.

Day 21. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation at the hotel.
The driver transfer you to the airport for the flight Osh – Bishkek. In Bishkek, you will be met by a representative and taken to the hotel.

Day 22. Transfer to the airport. Departure home.
The driver will pick you up from the hotel at the required time and take you to the airport for the desired flight.

*Osh–Osh packages start at Day 2 and end on Day 21 (The total duration of these packages is 20 days)

Ibn Sina Lenin Peak routes
Ibn Sina Lenin Peak routes

1662×602. 707 kbb

Cost of the packs in 2024:

Bishkek – Bishkek program full package: 1350 USD/person

See also – Maximum comfortable packs, ideal for entry-level climbers. Bishkek-Bishkek. More >>>

Given cost includes:

  • Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration
  • Meeting and seeing off to / from the airport, transfer to/from the hotel
  • Flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek (the ticket includes 15 kg of baggage; more is paid additionally – 2-3 USD / kg)
  • Transfer Osh – BC Achik-Tash – Osh (according to the schedule)
  • Transfer BC – Lukovaya Polyana – BC (according to schedule)
  • Accommodation in a hotel with breakfast in Osh – 1 night (early check-in for additional payment)
  • Accommodation in a hotel with breakfast in Bishkek – 2 nights (early check-in for additional payment)
  • Lunch on the road Osh – Achik-Tash – Osh
  • Accommodation in BC and C1 (no limit of days) in tents (2 people). Each tent is equipped with mattresses and wooden platforms. In the Base Camp, electricity is supplied to each tent.
  • Three meals a day in BC and in C1 according to the “buffet” system. C1 provides an early breakfast from 3:00 to 4:00 on request
  • Use of the dining room, toilet, storage room
  •  In BC – hot shower, in C1 – washroom
  •  In BC – a constant source of electricity, 220V, in L1 – electricity from a generator 220V, 50HZ from 18:00 to 22:00
  •  Supplying with the radio contact on the route
  •  Registration in the rescue team
  •  Ecological fee
  •  Mountain route consultancy
  •  First aid and consultation of doctor in BC and C1

Osh – Osh program full package: 1000 USD/person.

Maximum comfortable packs, ideal for entry-level climbers. Osh-Osh. More >>>

Given cost includes:

  • Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration
  • Meeting and seeing off to / from the airport
  • Transfer Osh – BC Achik-Tash – Osh (according to the schedule)
  • Transfer BC – Lukovaya Polyana – BC (according to schedule)
  • Accommodation in a hotel with breakfast in Osh – 1 night (early check-in for additional payment)
  • Lunch on the road Osh – Achik-Tash – Osh
  • Accommodation in BC and C1 (no limit of days) in tents (2 people). Each tent is equipped with mattresses and wooden platforms. In the Base Camp, electricity is supplied to each tent.
  • Three meals a day in BC and in C1 according to the “buffet” system. C1 provides an early breakfast from 3:00 to 4:00 on request
  • Use of the dining room, toilet, storage room
  •  In BC – hot shower, in C1 – washroom
  •  In BC – a constant source of electricity, 220V, in L1 – electricity from a generator 220V, 50HZ from 18:00 to 22:00
  •  Supplying with the radio contact on the route
  •  Registration in the rescue team
  • Ecological fee
  • Mountain route consultancy
  • First aid and consultation of doctor in BC and C1

Services that are included into both packages at Base Camp and Camp1:

Services in the base camp “Achik Tash” on 3600m:

Services in the camp 1 on 4400m:

Accommodation in double tents. Each tent is equipped with mattresses and wooden platforms and electricity.

Accommodation in double tents with mattresses and wooden platforms.

Meals – full board

Meals – full board

Guide-consultant’s services

Guide-consultant’s services

Dining-tent, WC, storage, baths and shower

Dining-tent, WC tent, storage tent

Medical kit

Medical first aid in the base camp (professional doctor)

Electricity 220V, permanent source of electricity!

Electricity 220V, 50HZ, only in the evening in the dining room, source-generator

Cost of Small package: 300 USD/person

Given cost includes:

  • Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration
  • Transfer Osh – BC Achik-Tash – Osh (according to the schedule)
  • Transfer BC – Lukovaya Polyana – BC (according to schedule)
  • Lunch boxes on the road Osh – Achik-Tash – Osh
  • Accommodation in BC and C1 (in own tents)
  • Use of infrastructure in BC and C1 (toilet, BC – hot shower, in C1 – washroom, drinking water, boiling water in BC and C1, storage room, electricity in the dining tents)
  • Supplying with the radio contact on the route
  • Registration in the rescue team
  • Ecological fee
  • First aid and consultation of doctor in BC and C1

The cost of all packages does not include:

  • Cost of a Kyrgyz VISA
  • International flights
  • Supplement for single accommodation in the hotel
  • Early check-in / late check-out at the hotel
  • All additional deviations from the main route
  • Drinks and meals not included in the main menu
  • All personal expenses (additional baggage charges, room service, medical expenses, insurance, etc.)
  • Mountain guide and porter`s services
  • Rent of equipment

All inclusive Guided tours

We offer you All inclusive GUIDED tours with guaranteed departure datesMore >>>>>

Lenin Peak from the Garlic Field  Lenin Peak. Hike to camp 1 (4200 m) Lenin Peak. Lenin glacier

The cost of extra services:

– Accommodation in a tent (twin accommodation), including the use of electricity, water, toilet, without meal:
in BC – 20 USD / tent / night; in C1 – 25 USD / tent / night.

– Accommodation in a tent (twin accommodation), with full board meal:
in BC – 55 USD / person; in C1 – 65 USD / person

– Accommodation in own tent, including use of electricity, water, toilet in BC and in C1, including the use of electricity, water and toilet – 5 USD / night.

– Breakfast / lunch / dinner in BC and C1 (in C1 – early breakfast is possible from 3-00 to 4-00 in the morning): 15 USD / person for one meal.
– Laundry service (washing machine) in BC: 5 usd / load.
– Sauna in BC (capacity – 4 people): 25 USD / 2 hours.

– Internet (WI-FI):
in BC – 3 USD / hour; in C1 – 5 USD / hour.

– Overnight in installed high altitude tent in C2 and C3 (capacity – 2 pax): 70 USD / tent / night.
– A set of high-altitude products: 120 USD / set
– Gas cartridge KOVEA / COLEMAN 230 gr:
in BC – 10 USD / pc; in C1 – 12 USD / pc.

– Gas cartridge COLEMAN 440 gr:
in BC – 16 USD / pc; in C1 – 18 USD / pc.

– Oxygen cylinder – 650 USD / pc.
– Rent of mask and oxygen pressure reducer – 300 USD / pc.
– Deposit for the return of an empty cylinder – 50 USD / pc.
– High-altitude guide services per program (1-3 persons): 2000 USD
– Guide services per day from C1: 140 USD / day.

– Porters’ services, cost per kg in USD:
BC (3600m) – C1 (4400m) or C1 (4400m) – BC (3600m) – 3 USD.
C1 (4400m) – C2 (5300m) / C2 (5300m) – C1 (4400m) – 10 USD.
C2 (5300m) – C3 (6100m) / C3 (6100m) – C2 (5300m) – 12 USD.

– Flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek (according to the tariffs of airlines): 50-150 USD (both directions).
– Accommodation in a hotel in Bishkek or Osh with breakfast – on request.
– Transfer airport – hotel / hotel – airport one way – on request.
– Group transfer Osh – BC or BC – Osh one way (according to the schedule) – 40 USD / person.
– Individual transfer Osh – BC / BC – Osh one way: minibus “Mercedes Sprinter” (max 10 people) – 300 USD, minivan / jeep (max 4 people) – 250 USD.

 Insurance information

Dear climbers,
Please pay attention on the fact of your security in case of any accidents if you purchase insurance policy. Responsibility for the reliability of the insurance company and for the accordance of insurance policy to our demands holds by the owner of insurance. We imperatively recommend to control next information in the insurance policy:

1) GLOBAL VOYAGER CAN NOT INTERVENE as an insurance company assistant

2) The sum of the policy must cover not less than USD 30.000

3) In the field “occupation” (or “sports practice”) “Mountaineering” must be notified

4) As Country of stay – Kyrgyzstan

5) The effective dates of the insurance policy must be included and coincide with the dates of Stay in Kyrgyzstan

6) The insurance policy must cover at least “first aid” and “transport of affected by helicopter if necessary” (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy)

Note:
Before the formalization of the policy, make sure which assistant operates the insurance company in question.

Please remember: we do not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be borne by the client involved.

Contact us

Supplier of services: ClimberCA International ConsortiumAbout Us
Telegram – https://t.me/ClimberCA
WhatsApp / Viber +7966 065-53-44
e-mail – your@climberca.com

Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.