Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak expedition, Ismoil Somoni Peak

 

Восхождение на пики Коммунизма и Корженевской

 

Prices in 2016 (per person)
Self guided
one or two peaks
Guided (3 pax.)
Guided for one peak
(3 pax.)
Complete package
2500 U$
4400 U$
3740 U$
Economic package
1500 U$
3400 U$
2840 U$


Helicopter flights schedule 2016

Djirgital-BC-Djirgital

18.07

16.08

29.08

Reserve day

19.07

30.08

 

Communism (Ismoil Somoni) Peak (7495 m) and Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) Peak expedition. Mountaineering program 2016. Economic package.

 

Author: ClimberCA – International Mountaineering agencyyour@climberca.com

Price – 1500 U$/pax (economic package)

Phone: +99898 3039846

Itinerary 2016:

Day 1-2 Arrival to Dushanbe, than transfer to Dzhirgital (7 hours drive).
Day 3 Helicopter flight to Base Camp (Moskvin’s glade).
Day 4-41 Acclimatization and climbing.
Day 42 Helicopter flight to Dzhirgital and a transfer to Dushanbe
Day 43 Departure from Dushanbe.

Price of economic package includes:
– Registration
– Meetings/seeing-off at the airport
– Transfer Dushanbe-Dzhirgital-Dushanbe
– Helicopter flights from Dzhirgital to BC and back (Personal cargo 20 kg max. An overload – 4,5U$/kilo)
– Accommodation in hotel (2 nights)
– Use of an infrastructure of BC (a place for tents, water (not boiled), a toilet, an electricity, a first-aid post, a left-luggage office)

Price of economic package does not include:
– Accommodation in stationary houses/tents at BC – 8U$ / 10U$ / day / pax
– Breakfast – 10U$
– Dinner – 15U$
– Supper – 15U$
– Shower – 5U$ / visit
– Sauna- 10U$ / visit
– Left-luggage office – 2,5U$ / day
– Gas bottle (230 mg) new – 8U$ / item
– Refueling of gas bottle (230 mg) – 3U$ / item
– Satellite phone – under price-list
– The Internet – under price-list
– Bar – under price-list
– Rent of high-altitude tent – 7U$ / day
– Rent of mobile portable radio set – 5U$ / day

The mountain guide service – 48 U$ /day

Porters:
4200-5300м-8U$ / kg
5300-5800м-12U$ / kg
5800-6300м-20U$ / kg
Above 6300м-28U$ / kg

Your guides

We recommend your group to be accompanied by one or more Mountain Guides of ClimberCA consortium, made under direction of Ilyas Tuhvatullin. For further information and booking please e-mail us your@climberca.com

The recommended guide:climber ratio is 1:3.


 

Communism (Ismoil Somoni) Peak (7495 m) and Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) Peak expedition. Mountaineering program 2016. Complete package.

Price – 2500 U$/pax (complete package)

Author: ClimberCA – International Mountaineering agencyyour@climberca.com

Phone: +99898 3039846

Itinerary 2016:
Day 1-2 Arrival to Dushanbe, than transfer to Dzhirgital (7 hours drive).
Day 3 Helicopter flight to Base Camp (Moskvin’s glade).
Day 4-41 Acclimatization and climbing.
Day 42 Helicopter flight to Dzhirgital and a transfer to Dushanbe
Day 43 Departure from Dushanbe.

Price of complete package includes:
– Registration
– Meetings/seeing-off at the airport
– Transfer Dushanbe-Dzhirgital-Dushanbe
– Helicopter flights from Dzhirgitalja to BC and back (Personal cargo 30 kg max. An overload – 4,5 U$ / kilo).
– Accommodation in hotel (2 nights)
– Full board in BC
– Accommodation in tents at BC
– Shower, sauna (1 time/week)
– Left-luggage office in BC
– Medical aid

Price of complete package does not include:
– Gas bottle (230 mg) new – 8U$ / item
– Refueling of gas bottle (230 mg) – 3U$ / item
– Satellite phone – under price-list
– The Internet – under price-list
– Bar – under price-list
– Rent of high-altitude tent – 7U$ / day
– Rent of mobile portable radio set – 5U$ / day

The mountain guide service – 48 U$ /day

Porters:
4200-5300м-8U$ / kg
5300-5800м-12U$ / kg
5800-6300м-20U$ / kg
Above 6300м-28U$ / kg

For further information and to booking please contact us via
your@climberca.com

Your guides

We recommend your group to be accompanied by one or more Mountain Guides of ClimberCA consortium, made under direction of Ilyas Tuhvatullin. For further information and booking please e-mail us
your@climberca.com

The recommended guide:climber ratio is 1:3.
Ismoil Somoni Peak (Communism Peak) satellite informationn

Ismoil Somoni Peak (Communism Peak) is the highest mountain in Tajikistan and in the former Soviet Union (elevation 7,495 m, prominence 3,402 m Coordinates 38°55’00”N 72°01’00”E), recently named after Ismoil Somoni, the ancestor of the Samanid dynasty.

When the existence of a peak in the Soviet Pamir Mountains higher than Lenin Peak (now called Ibn Sina Peak) was first established in 1928, the mountain was tentatively identified with Garmo Peak; but as the result of the work of further Soviet expeditions, it became clear by 1932 that they were not the same, and in 1933 the new peak, from the Akademiya Nauk Range, was named Stalin Peak, after Joseph Stalin.

In 1962, the name was changed to Communism Peak, and in 1998 to its current name.

The first ascent was made in 1933 by the Soviet mountaineer Yevgeniy Abalakov.


Peak Korzhenevskaya satellite information

Peak Korzhenevskaya is the third highest peak (elevation 7,105 m, prominence 1,650 m) in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan. It is one of the five “Snow Leopard Peaks” in the territory of the former Soviet Union. It is named after Evgenia Korzhenevskaya, the wife of Russian geographer Nikolai L. Korzhenevskiy, who discovered the peak in August 1910.

Due to transliteration and declension issues the peak’s name is rendered in many different ways, including Korzhenevski, Korzhenevskoi, and Korzhenievsky.

Peak Korzhenevskaya lies about 13 km (8 mi) north of Ismoil Somoni Peak (formerly Communism Peak), the highest point of the Pamirs in the territory of the former Soviet Union. It forms the end of the northwest fork of the Akademiya Nauk Range, the north-south trending subrange which forms the core of the Pamirs. It rises on the south bank of the Muksu River, and to the west of the peak is the Fortambek Glacier. While most of the Akademiya Nauk Range is in Tajikistan’s Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province (GBAO), Peak Korzhenevskaya is located a little to the west of the GBAO line, in Jirgatol district (Region of Republican Subordination).

Peak Korzhenevskaya is one of the five 7,000 m peaks of the former Soviet Union (this counts Khan Tengri, which is more often given as 6,995 m) that were required for a climber to be awarded the Snow Leopard award, the highest honor given to Soviet mountaineers. It is usually said to be the second easiest of these peaks to climb, after Lenin Peak. However it is not a easy mountain; its rise above local terrain rivals that of Ismoil Somoni Peak, since it is closer to the deep valley of the Muksu River.

In 1937 D. Gushchin led an attempt on the peak which reached the lower summit (6,910 m).

Korzhenevskaya was first climbed in 1953 by a party led by A. Ugarov; the summit team comprised Ugarov, B. Dimitriev, A. Goziev, A. Kovyrkov, L. Krasavin, E. Ryspajev, R. Sielidzanov, and P. Skorobogatov. They approached via the Fortambek Glacier, to the Korzhenevsky glacier, and thence to the north ridge.

Partly since it is required for the Snow Leopard award, Peak Korzhenevskaya has been climbed many times; it is the second most frequented major peak in the Pamirs, after Lenin Peak. A base camp on the moraine of the Moskvin Glacier, and helicopter access, make this possible. Peak Korzhenevskaya has been climbed from almost every direction, including a first winter ascent in 1986; most of these ascents were by Russians. The most common current route on the mountain ascends from the south and attains the summit ridge from the west side.


Sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ismoil_Somoni_Peak
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peak_Korzhenevskaya

Communism – E. Korjenevskoy peaks region

Communism – E. Korjenevskoy peaks region (map).

 

Восхождение на пики Коммунизма и Корженевской

Traditionally the central and northwestern parts of the Pamir are considered one region. Two of the three peaks over 7,000 m above sea level in the Pamir are in this area – Mt. Communism (7,495 m) and Mt. Evgenii Korzhenevskoy (7,105m)- and there is also the Fedchenko glacier, the largest in Central Asia (71.2 km long). This region consists of a series of mountain ranges that run in a latitudinal direction and are connected to one another by the Akademia Nauk (Academy of Science) range. There are two areas with base camps. The first is the Moskvina camp, which lies near a little lake on the plateau covered with edelweiss and wormwood that extend up to where the Waltera and Moskvina glaciers converge, at 4,100 m. This camp is the starting point for the climbs up Mt. Communism and Mt. Korzhenevskoy. The second camp is Suloev (or Fortambek), on the plateau of the same name, where the Fortambek glacier points northward, opposite the Tramplinniy (Springboard) glacier. The climate in this region is characteristically quite variable. The mountain climbing season is very short; the best period is from mid-July to August 20.
Central part of Pamir presents two giants for climbing: Communism (7495 m) and Korzhenevskoy (7105 m) peaks, which are standing in front of each other. Both of them has extra class routes and classical ones for easy climbing with pre acclimatization as usual up to Pamirskoe Plateau.
Peak Communism (7495 m).
Mt. Communism is an awe-inspiring rock and ice pyramid with a quadrangular base that has four distinct faces. The eastern one was climbed for the first time by Evgenii Abalakov in 1933 via a difficult route with a very complicated access, along the Bivuachniy (Bivouac) glacier On the western face is the classic route, Burevestnik, which runs along the ridge. The third face plunges down to the south for 2,000 meters on the Beliaeva glacier; it is quite steep characterized by the so called Puso (Paunch) a rock wall from 600 to 800 meters high with an incline of more than 80°. Here are the most difficult of 25 routes up Mt. Communism. The South-Western face was first climbed in 1968 by E. Mislovskiy, who kept to the right of the Puso. The true “Paunch” route was climbed only in 1977 by A. Nepomniashkiy. Later, other routes were opened by K. Valiev and V, Solonnikov. The face looking over the “Springboard” glacier has not been climbed yet. It is considered impossible to conquer because of the extremely dangerous icefall that descends onto the Pamirskoe plateau. The normal route up Mt. Communism, on the northern face, crosses the Pamirskoe plateau. This is one of the highest and largest plateaus in the world: about three km wide and twelve km long from west to east. The lowest point is at 4,700 meters altitude, the highest 6,300 m. At 6,000 m there is a little rocky peak called Parachutistov (Parachuters) in honour of the tragic expedition of Soviet military parachuters that was organized in 1967 for training and sporting purposes; many parachuters were killed when the strong wind caused them to crash against the rock, while the others managed to save their lives by opening their parachutes after they had passed over the wind belt.

The Barodkin Route up Mt. Communism (7,495 m, 5A) – from North side.

Classical routes

The normal route up Mt. Communism begins from the Waltera glacier on to the northern face of the massif. It was opened in 1968 by J. Barodkin along the ridge that bears his name. On a technical level it is not too difficult; it can be compared to the routes up Lenin Peak. Yet it is rated 5 A because of the high altitude. After acclimatization that includes a climb to the snow-covered Pamirskoe plateau and back, the route to the top takes about a week. From the Moskvina base camp climbers go up towards the south along the Waltera glacier, which they cross in a westerly direction after about a one-hour walk. Continue climb along the steep and rubbly ridge up to camp I, at 5,300 m, above the summit of the large rock triangle. In most cases this triangle is climbed over to the left, along the inclined ledge and the snow gully. This is the easiest way, but it is risky because it goes under the glacier icefall. From camp I the itinerary follows the rock ridge, which is often encrusted with ice, up to two snow domes called Grudi (Breasts, 6,200 m). In high season there are clear tracks of this part of the route, and in the more complicated sections a permanent rope is set up. From here you have a level walk to camp 2 (6,200 m), which is in the Pamirskoe plateau. The third day you tackle the long crossing of the plateau, at the end of which you will find camp 3 by going up a snow ridge (6,400 m). The ascent continues along the ridge, up to the western shoulder of the summit, called Dushanbe (Great Barrier) Peak (6,956 m). Camp 4 is in a snow-covered col at 6,900 m. The route continues to the left over the snow under the summit rocks, up to the col. This is the most difficult part of the climb, because of the steepness and altitude. You reach the top by climbing up the final 300 meters along the northern ridge. You can descend to camp 4, or even camp 3, on the same day. The record for the fastest climb up Mt. Communism was set in 1990 by V. Obikhod and E. Klinezkiy, who took about 20 hours, without bivouacking, to get over the 3,300 meters difference in height, reach the summit and then go back to the base camp. The climber from Yugoslavia A. Stremeiy, who opened the Yugoslavs’ Route up Mt. Everest, holds another record: in 1983 he skied down Mt. Communism along the Barodkin route.

The Route up Mt. Korzhenevskoy (7,105 m, 5A)

(In the foto to the right) peak Korjenevskoy, seen from Pamirskoe plateau.
Originally called Kul-Santalak, the third peak in the Pamirs over 7,000 meters high was “discovered” in 1910 by a Russian geographer, N. Korzhenevskiy, who wanted to name it after his wife Evgenia. It was climbed for the first time in 1953 by A, Agarov, who went up the northern side. The peak has many complicated routes on its western face. The route along the southern crest (opened by V. Tsetkin in 1966) is not too difficult and can easily be climbed in three or four days after a suitable acclimatization period. From the Moskvina base camp, follow the path along the torrent that descends from the glacier on the southern side of the mountain, and then continue to the right and cross the Moskvina glacier. Continue along the rock and debris ridge until the slope becomes less steep; here, at about 3,200 meters, you can set up camp 1. Proceed along the glacier slope that descends on the southern side of the mountain. The glacier is steep, so that rope, crampons, ice axes and ice screws are necessary. Then the incline again becomes less steep and the route approaches the moraine; here, at 3,300 m, is another good place to set up camp 1. It is more comfortable, with a splendid view that also takes in the entire route. You then go up the glacier along a slope that is not very steep; at the beginning of the season the glacier is covered with snow, but at the end deep crevasses open up. Then the face becomes steep, leading to a triangle of rocks where you can set up camp 2 (3,800 m) on a snowy terrace under an overhanging roof. The route continues to the right, up to the little col, with a 1,000 meter crossing on ice that requires crampons, ice axes, rope and ice pitons. This is one of the most difficult and technical parts of the entire route. Usually a fixed rope is to be found there. The crossing ends on a rather gentle incline that arrives at the col on the southern ridge (6,100 m). You can pitch camp 2 here as well, but there is space only for a few tents. Then you must tackle a small fifty-meter tall face of steep rocks where there is a fixed rope. You come out on the snow ridge, which is long and easy but may be tiring because of the many ups and downs; this leads to the top. There is no need for crampons here, as the snow is usually soft and ski poles should suffice. Camp 3, where you will also stop on the way back down, can be set up either at 6,400 or 6,700 meters. The descent takes 24 hours. The view of Mt. Communism is fantastic.

Prices in 2016 (per person)
Self guided
one or two peaks
Guided (3 pax.)
Guided for one peak
(3 pax.)
Complete package
2500 U$
4400 U$
3740 U$
Economic package
1500 U$
3400 U$
2840 U$

Helicopter flights schedule 2016

Djirgital-BC-Djirgital

18.07

16.08

29.08

Reserve day

19.07

30.08


Source: http://mountains.tos.ru/commun.htm

Four Snow Leopard Summits in one package 2014


Pamir Climbing

3700 – complete package for four summits without Lenin peak.
2200 – economic package for four summits without Lenin peak.

Price/package information:

Complete package Communism and Korzhenevskaya Peaks

Price of complete package includes:
– Registration
– Meetings/seeing-off at the airport
– Transfer Dushanbe-Dzhirgital-Dushanbe
– Helicopter flights from Dzhirgitalja to BC and back (Personal cargo 50 kg max. An overload – 4,5 € / kilo).
– Accommodation in hotel 2* (2 nights)
– Full board in BC
– Accommodation in tents at BC
– Shower, sauna (1 time/week)
– Left-luggage office in BC
– Medical aid

Price of complete package does not include:
– Gas bottle (230 mg) new – 8€ / item
– Refueling of gas bottle (230 mg) – 3€ / item
– Satellite phone – under price-list
– The Internet – under price-list
– Bar – under price-list
– Rent of high-altitude tent – 7€ / day
– Rent of mobile portable radio set – 5€ / day

– The mountain guide service – 60 € /day

– Porters:
4200-5300м-8€ / kg
5300-5800м-12€ / kg
5800-6300м-20€ / kg
Above 6300м-28€ / kg

Economy package Communism and Korzhenevskaya Peaks

Price of economic package includes:
– Registration
– Meetings/seeing-off at the airport
– Transfer Dushanbe-Dzhirgital-Dushanbe
– Helicopter flights from Dzhirgital to BC and back (Personal cargo 20 kg max. An overload – 4,5€/kilo)
– Accommodation in private guesthouse (2 nights)
– Use of an infrastructure of BC (a place for tents, water (not boiled), a toilet, an electricity, a first-aid post, a left-luggage office)

Price of economic package does not include:
– Accommodation in stationary houses/tents at BC – 8€ / 10€ / day / pax
– Breakfast – 10€
– Dinner – 15€
– Supper – 15€
– Shower – 5€ / visit
– Sauna- 10€ / visit
– Left-luggage office – 2,5€ / day
– Gas bottle (230 mg) new – 8€ / item
– Refueling of gas bottle (230 mg) – 3€ / item
– Satellite phone – under price-list
– The Internet – under price-list
– Bar – under price-list
– Rent of high-altitude tent – 7€ / day
– Rent of mobile portable radio set – 5€ / day

– The mountain guide service – 60 € /day

– Porters:
4200-5300м-8€ / kg
5300-5800м-12€ / kg
5800-6300м-20€ / kg
Above 6300м-28€ / kg

Complete package Khan-Tengri and Pobeda (around 21 days of service)

• meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
• transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel – airport in Bishkek;
• transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
• helicopter flight to BC and back;
• unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
• accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!);
• accommodation in double tents with full board at BC “South Inylchek“;
• free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
• consultancy service of local guide;
• consultancy of doctor;
• registration with local Rescue Party;
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• change of air-flight and railway tickets;
• frontier zone permit;
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

Economy package Khan-Tengri and Pobeda (around 21 days of service)

• helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 3 EURO/kg);
• free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
• consultancy service of local guide;
• consultancy of doctor;
• registration with local Rescue Party;
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• change of air-flight and railway tickets;
• frontier zone permit;
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

The cost for both packages does not include:

• The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
• International flight;
• All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
• Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
• All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
• The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;
• The rent of mountaineering equipment;

Porter & guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment:

Guide services:
1 person – 1200 Euro
2 person – 700 Euro per person
3 person – 550 Euro per person

Porter services:
BC – Camp 1 – 4 Euro/per kg
Camp 1 – Camp 2 – 8 Euro/per kg
Camp 2 – Camp 3 – 8 Euro/per kg

Note: Cost of porter services is calculated for both ascending and descending. Porters service should be booked before program.

Additional services at Base Camp:
Rent of tents for high camps – 60 Euro per program
Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 6 euro per one cartridge
International call by satellite telephone – 3 euro/min

ClimberCA International Consortium
e-mail: pagetour@yandex.com
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