Lenin peak + Khan-Tengri+Pobeda peaks for one season.

Supplier of services: ClimberCA
Inernational Consortium
.
About Us

Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of
services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are
truly unexampled.

Itinerary

Day 1. (2 July) Arrival in Bishkek. Flight to Osh,accommodation in hotel.
Day 2. (3 July) Transfer to base camp “Achyk-Tash”
Day 3. (4 July)Acclimatization ascent of “Petrovskogo” peak. Descent to the base camp. Preparation day for climb to Camp 1.
Day 4. (5 July) Climb to the Camp 1 (4400 m)
Day 5. (6 July) Acclimatization ascent of “Domashniy” peak (4700m). Descent to the Camp 1. Preparation day for climb to the Camp 2.
Day 6. (7 July) Climb to the Camp 2 (5300m)
Day 7. (8 July) Climb to the Camp 3 (6200m)
Day 8. (9 July) Descent to the camp 1 (4400m)
Day 9. (10 July) Descent to the base camp (3600 м.)
Day 10. (11 July) Rest day
Day 11. (12 July) Preparation day
Day 12. (13 July) Climb to the Camp 1 (4400m)
Day 13. (14 July) Climb to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 14. (15 July) Climb to the Camp 3 (6200 m)
Day 15. (16 July) Ascent of the Lenin peak summit (7134 m) and descent to the Camp 3.
Day 16. (17 July) Descent to the camp 1 (4400m)
Day 17. (18 July) Descent to the base camp (3600 m)
Day 18. (19 July) Reserve day.
Day 19. (20 July) Transfer to Osh (Checked with the transport schedule).
Day 20. (21 July) Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 21. (22 July) Transfer Bishkek – Karkara (460 km), accommodation at Karkara Base Camp.
Day 22. (23 July) Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m) (Checked with the helicopter schedule).
Day 23. (24 July) Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 24. (25 July) Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 25. (26 July) Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 26. (27 July) Camp 3. 5900m.
Day 27. (28 July) Camp 4. 6400 m.
Day 28. (29 July). Ascend to summit 7010m and descend to Camp 3.
Day 29. (30 July) Descend to BC
Day 30. (31 July) Rest day
Day 31. (01 August) Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 32. (02 August) Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 33. (03 August) Preparation day
Day 34. (04 August) Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 35. (05 August) Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 36. (06 August) Camp 3. 5900m
Day 37. (07 August) Camp 4. 6400m
Day 38. (08 August) Camp 5. 6900m
Day 39. (09 August) Camp 6. 7100m
Day 40. (10 August) Ascent of the Pobeda Peak summit 7439 and descent to the camp 5
Day 41. (11 August) Descent to Camp 3. 5900m
Day 42. (12 August) Descent to Camp 1. 4200m
Day 43. (13 August) Descent to BC
Day 44. (14 August) Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 45. (15 August) Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 46. (16 August) Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel. (Checked with the helicopter schedule).
Day 47. (17 August) Free day in Bishkek.
Day 48. (18 August) Transfer to Airport

Prices for 2017

Cost of the program full package: 2600 USD/pax

The package price includes:

• meeting / seeing off at the airport, Bishkek, and Osh.
• transfers airport – hotel – airport, Bishkek, and Osh.
• transfer Osh – base camp Achik-Tash – Osh.
• transfer Bishkek – helipad Karkara – Bishkek.
• flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek (free baggage allowance – 15 kg; over transportation additionally paid – 1-2 USD/kg).
• helicopter flight to base camp South Inylchek transportation (transportation of cargo without limit).
• accommodation in hotels in Bishkek and in Osh with breakfast (not more than 5 nights!).
• lunch on the road Osh – Achik-Tash – Osh and Bishkek – Karkara – Bishkek.
• accommodation and meals (3 times a day) in the Base Camps: “Achik-Tash”, “Camp No. 1 on 4400 m”, “South Inylchek” and “Karkara”.
• free use of a hot shower or bath, toilet, lockers in Base Camps: “Achik-Tash”, “Camp No. 1 at 4400 m”, “South Inylchek” and “Karkara”.
• consultation guide.
• consultation of doctor.
• registration is saved in the squad.
• environmental fee for living in camps.
• fixed “rod” when climbing.
• the use of distant radio.
• rental stations during climbing (only for groups of more than 3 persons).
• exchange service tickets and railway tickets.
• a pass in the border/area.
• registration on the territory of Kyrgyzstan (if necessary).

The package price does not include:

• The cost of the Kyrgyz visa
• International flight
• Meals not included in the program – meals on the mountain above camp 1, and in the cities
• Alcoholic drinks
• Personal expenses (insurance, overweight in airplanes, etc.)
• Services of a mountain guide and porters
• Renting of personal and group climbing equipment

Additional services

Additional service in BC Achik-Tash:

• Rent of mountaineering tent – 80 USD per program.
• Accommodation in installed tents (in high altitude camps 1,2,3) – 70 USD per night.
• Gas cylinders firm KOVEA (230 g) – 9 USD per tank.
• International calls – 4 USD/min

Additional service in BC South Inylchek:

• Rent of mountaineering tent – 80 USD per program.
• Gas cylinders firm KOVEA (230 g) – 9 USD per tank.
• International calls – 4 USD/min

Mountain Guide services for Lenin Peak:

1 guide for 1 person – 1300 USD
1 guide for 2 persons – 1560 USD
1 guide for 3 persons – 1740 USD

Mountain Guide services for Khan-Tengri Peak:

1 guide for 1 person – 1600 USD
1 guide for 2 persons – 1800 USD
1 guide for 3 persons – 2100 USD

Mountain Guide services for Pobeda Peak:

1 guide for 1 person – 2250 USD
1 guide for 2 persons – 2600 USD
1 guide for 3 persons – 3000 USD

Note: We made an itinerary in order to let you join to the guided Lenin Peak expedition with the follwing price:
The cost of the program Bishkek-Bishkek in 2017: 2050 USD / pax.
The cost of the program Osh-Osh in 2017: 1925 USD / pax.

Meanwhile the Full package Bishkek – Bishkek Lenin peak basic program – 1190 USD/person + Mountain Guide services for Lenin Peak at least 1300 USD. – Thus the guided option is much cheaper.

Trekking to the Khan Tengri BC. Fixed departure dates

Trip features: Trek. Visits to Base Camps Southern Inilchek and Karkara, high altitude trekking camps (2800 m. – 4000 m. a.s.l.).

1st program with fixed date: from 13 July to 26 July 2017.
2nd program with fixed date: from 10 August to 23 August 2017.

The trek from «At-Jailoo» 2500m to BC «South Inylchek» 4100m by the price: 2230 USD / pax.
Russian >>>

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us.
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

The trip we offer below is a trekking tour along the mountain trails in Tien Shan. It begins in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. Then you are transferred to At Jailoo alpine meadow. From here the trekking starts. You will see the real beauty of these mountains, the serenity and silence of Tien Shan, the “Celestial Mountains”, you will trek along one of the biggest glaciers in the world, and hike close to the mysterious Merzbacher Lake. Your trip finishes at “South Inylchek”, a base camp located at the foot of the magnificent peak Khan Tengri (7010 m.) This season we continue setting up stationary tent camps along the whole route. Travel with comfort! If you book the trek “To The Heart Of Tien-Shan”, you will enjoy all the facilities and commodities of our fixed camps all the way along the trek! It also gives you a number of advantages.

If you use our service, your acclimatization will be much easier as:
1) You will be awaited in every Camp, you will be accommodated in comfortable tents and get delicious meals that include National and European cuisine;
2) You will have communication in every Camp, and will be able to send the information from there;
3) Your itinerary will be marked and described in details in a leaflet, that you will get when your use our service.

Khan Tengri fixed dates and + trek

If you use our service, you can save money, as:
1) There is no need for you to bring (or rent) lots of things – like tent, dishes, frying pans, etc;
2) You don’t need to buy any food;
3) No need to hire porters.

 

The threk program:

Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 2 July and 27 August 2017.

Day 1. (13 July / 10 August) “Manas” international airport – Bishkek – Karakol.

Drive: 400 km. / 7-8 hrs. / + 900 m.
Arrival in Bishkek early in the morning.

Meeting at the airport and transfer to Bishkek, check in to hotel. After short rest and late breakfast transfer to town of Karakol. Lunch on the way. On arrival to Karakol check in to hotel.
Dinner and overnight in hotel (1700 m. a.s.l.).

Day 2. (14 July / 11 August) Karakol sightseeing tour. Karakol – At-Jailoo Base Camp.

Drive: 200 km. / 5-6 hrs. / + 800 m. After breakfast short sightseeing tour around Karakol. Visiting Dungan mosque, a unique construction in Chinese style, but serving as a mosque. Also you will see an Old Russian Orthodox Cathedral made of wood without any nails.
Lunch in local café. Transfer to At-Jailoo base camp. 200 km drive will take us about 6 hours. The road passes through a number of villages, then continues up along the canyon Turguen Ak Suu towards Ashuu Chon Pass (3808m). Descent to Ashuu Tor valley. On the way we pass by Koilu and Sary Jaz rivers. Later we drive along Sary Jaz river to the check point Maida-Adyr as we are going to enter the border zone, we must leave our permits here. About 1-1.5 hours drive along Inylchek river, arrival in At Jailoo camp. Sary Jaz river is one of the largest in Kyrgyzstan. The river has a length of 200 km and carries its water into Inylchek river which flows to China.
Dinner and overnight in tents (2500 m. a.s.l.).

Day 3. (15 July / 12 August) At Jailoo Camp – Iva Camp.

Trek: 18 km. / 5-7 hrs. / + 400 m. Trekking from At-Jailoo along Inylchek River to the beginning of Inylchek glacier. After breakfast we take lunch boxes and will leave the camp in order to be able to cross At Jailoo river before 9 am while there is still little water and the water level is low. We cross its freezing cold water, but it gets more difficult the later we do it. Within an hour we reach a place called Prijim. If the water level allows, we walk and easily cross another stream here. Otherwise we have to ascent and descend a steep and overgrown path which takes us about an hour extra. All depends on the lake Merzbacher. Whether it is the time when the lake opens and its water rushes down, or it has already or vice versa not opened yet, then we are lucky! Still it is highly recommended to bring along the sandals which you can wear when crossing the river and streams.
Dinner and overnight in tents (2900 m. a.s.l.).

Day 4. (16 July / 13 August) Iva Camp – Glina camp.

Trek: 8 km. / 5-6 h. / +200 m.  The Inylchek Glacier is the largest glacier and centerpiece of the Central Tien Shan. Extending 62 km in length with a width of over 3 km, the Inylchek Glacier is the third longest glacier outside the Polar Regions. It is estimated that the glacier holds enough ice to cover the entire country of Kyrgyzstan in three meters of melt water (Stewart, 2002). The first outside to travel into the area and visit the glacier was the European Pyotr Semenov in 1857. Climbing in the area began in the early 1900’s and continued through the 1930’s. Under Soviet rule, the permitting system restricted foreign access. It was not until after the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991 that foreign climbers began to climb in the area (Stewart, 2002).
Breakfast. We take our lunch boxes and leave at about 9 am. Very steep ascents and descents take exhaust. We will try to go through to the right slope of the terrace. The trail crosses the terrace, later small rivers, washes out mountain slope, Putevodnyi glacier. We go up and down, up and down all the time. Lunch on the glacier at about 1 pm. Then we ascent another steep terrace along a narrow trail. The variety of terrains and the steepness of the slope trails will add some more adrenaline in blood. Arriving in Glina Camp we will have some tea or coffee and rest. The camp has got its name (which means “clay” in Russian) because of its location on a green clay field. Dinner at 6 pm.
Overnight in tents (3100 m. a.s.l.).

Day 5. (17 July / 14 August) Camp Glina – Merzbacher Glade.

Trek: 9 km. / 5-6 h. / +300 m. Breakfast at 9 am. Again we trek up and down various terraces though have also about 10 km of straight path. Only once we trek across a small glacier, passing a river and have lunch on the shore of a small lake, swim and rest. It will be an hour left to get to the Camp. Upon arrival we have some tea or coffee, then dinner at 6 pm.
Wonderful views of Merzbacher lake open to us from the Camp. Merzbacher glade is the last grassy place in the area located just across the unique Merzbacher Lake. There is a scientific research station on the glacier. Scientists from all over the world come working here every summer. They study glaciers moving, meteorological situation of the region and the lake Merzbacher itself. There is a large green area around which is flat enough for camping.
Overnight in tents (3400 m. a.s.l.).

Day 6. (18 July / 15 August) Merzbacher Lake.

Trek: 10 km. / 4-5 h. Breakfast at 9 am. We take our lunch boxes and leave at 10 am. Across South Inylchek glacier up to Mertzbacher Lake. The glacier terrain is ice covered with rocks and stones, sand and mud. The trekking time both ways is 4-5 hours.
Sandwiched between the Northern and Southern branches of the glacier lies the mysterious Merzbacher Lake, which form every summer and then, sometime in August, burst through the ice banks and the waters flow into the Inylchek River. (Actually, the timing varies – for example in 2012 it happened on 10,July.) In reality, only part of the lake drains – the lake, which is 6 kilometres long and one kilometre wide, is in fact divided into two by a bridge of ice and whilst the lower half empties regularly, the upper part is always full of water. Also, the lakes empty twice a year – once in the summer and once in the winter – but most people only know about the summer event. In 1903 the German geographer and mountaineer, Gottfried Merzbacher, first discovered the lake while leading an expedition into the Tian Shan Mountains aiming to reach the summit of Khan Tengri. Forced back by ice, from their originally intended route through the Byankol Pass and along the Semyenov and Mushketov glaciers, they attempted a different approach – along the Enilchek glacier. Once again they failed, but they had shown that Khan Tengri was in fact on a ridge and not in the centre of that particular knot of the Tian Shan Mountains as had been thought. The expedition will be better remembered, however, for the discovery of the mysterious lake that now bears Merzbacher’s name.
Overnight in tents (3400 m. a.s.l.).

Day 7.  (19 July / 16 August) Merzbacher Glade – Komsomolskiy Glacier.

Trek: 12 km. / 4-6 h. / +400 m.
  Breakfast at 8 am. We take our lunch boxes and set off at 9 am. It is a long day of trekking surrounded with beautiful landscapes – snow, rocks and multi-colored ice – black, white and sometimes even striped. The first part of our trek goes along the right side over terraces and, right before we reach Shokalskyi glacier it smoothly goes down. The trail reaches the glacier and the black moraine which flows out of Komsomolez glacier. We follow it up to the glacier itself. The terrain is very diverse: rivers, crevices, ascents and descents, the hikes around those take much time and energy. It will be our first night at the glacier. Strong wind usually starts here after 4 pm. It might be much colder than before. Hot drinks are very helpful here, the dinner is as usual at 6 pm.
Overnight in tents (3800 m. a.s.l.).

Day 8. (20 July / 17 August) Komsomolskiy Glacier – Dikiy Glacier.
Trek: 7 km. / 3-5 h. / +100 m.
  Breakfast at 8 am. Departure at 9 am Lunch boxes. Trekking in this part of Tien Shan is absolutely fabulous. The distinctive characteristic of the region is a great number of nameless peaks, unclimbed yet, about 5000m above sea level high. Straight from the camp we cross Proletarsky glacier moraine, get to the middle of Dikyi glacier moraine and walk along it up to the Dykyi glacier. The first part of the way is uneven, we walk up and down. Closer to the glacier the moraine becomes more even, without so many crevices, creeks and, no needs of working around to escape crossing small streams. Lunch break. In front of Proletarsky glacier we go up straight. Dikyi camp is located behind Pesnya Abaya peak (in 30 minutes). From Dikyi camp you have beautiful view of Khan Tengri, Pobeda, Gorky, Chapaev, Trehglavaya peaks. Tea, coffee and dinner at 6 pm.
Overnight in tents (3900 m. a.s.l.).

Day 9. (21 July / 18 August) Dikiy glacier – South Inylchek base camp.

Trek: 8 km. / 4-6 h. / +200 m.  Optionally: Climbing to Pesnya Abaya – 4901 a.s.l.
Breakfast at 8 or 9 am. Short trek,so we can depart at 10 am. We take our lunch boxes. We cross the whole glacier till the central moraine where the base camp is situated. The path is covered with rocks, ice, creeks, lakes and cracks. But it is possible to do without any ropes and crampons. We arrive in the base camp (4000m) at about 2 pm. We have our lunch, tea or coffee. Dinner at 7 pm.
INYLCHEK Base Camp is ideally situated in the heart of North Tien-Shan at the South Inylchek glacier approximately at 4000 m. above the sea level. It has a picturesque view of Khan-Tengri ( 7010 m .) and Pobeda ( 7439 m .) peaks.
Overnight in BC in tents (4100 m. a.s.l.).
Day 10. (22 July / 19 August) South Inylchek base camp.Rest day at South Inylchek BC or radial hiking to Khan-Tengri.
“South Inylchek” BC is open from 3 of July till 30 of August every year and might be interesting not only for alpinists, but also for usual travelers, who would like to enjoy the views of beautiful mountains on the flight by helicopter.
The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as ‘The Mountains of Heaven’.
Khan Tengri peak was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed – all by Soviet teams.
Overnight in tents.

Day 11. (23 July / 20 August) Helicopter flight to Karkara helicopter pad – Issyk Kul Lake.
Drive: 200 km. / 3 h. / -2500 m.
Breakfast. Helicopter flight from BC to Karkara helicopter pad. Transfer to Issyk-Kul Lake. In the afternoon three hour drive to the Issyk-Kul Lake, lunch on the way. Issyk-Kul is the second largest alpine lake in the world after Lake Titicaca in South America.
Measuring 182 km long by 58 km wide, the lake appeared as a result of volcanic activity. It is heated from below by thermal activity and never freezes even in the depths of winter. In the summer the water temperature reaches 25-28 degrees centigrade (warmer than the air) and you can swim in the lake enclosed on all sides by the snowy peaks of the Tien Shan Mountains. Extremely deep and nicely warm over the centuries the lake has been something of an oasis in this inhospitable mountain environment. With diverse flora and fauna Issyk-Kul Lake and the surrounding environments are rightly considered to be one of Central Asia most remarkable locations.
Arrival to the hotel. Overnight and dinner in hotel.

Day 12. (24 July / 21 August) Issyk- Kul – Bishkek.

Drive: 250 km. / 5-6 h. / -800 m. Breakfast. Time at leisure. Lunch. In the afternoon transfer to Bishkek through tight Boom Gorge where boisterous Chu River, so much loved by rafters (routes up to 6th category difficulty!), cuts its way. On the way visit Burana Tower (old minaret) near Tokmok town. That minaret was constructed in Balasagyn town; one of the capitals of Karakhanid State existed in 11-12 centuries AD. Explore ruins of that important trading point at the Great Silk Road and visit a little local museum telling about that civilization. Also watch a collection of Balbals, Turkic ancient tombs.
Arrival to Bishkek. Accommodation in hotel.

Day 13. (25 July / 22 August) Sightseeing tour in Bishkek.  After breakfast a short sightseeing tour in the city.
The capital and industrial centre of Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek is a city of wide avenues, handsome buildings and Soviet heritage. It is the permanently snow capped Kyrgyz Alatau mountain range which towers over Bishkek providing a quite stunning backdrop.
Visit Manas Monument, the main national hero of the Kyrgyz people. Then excursion to the State History Museum and walking tour around main Ala Too Square to watch ceremony of changing of the Guard of Honor, Independence Monument, and finish at the Old Square with Government House. Transfer to the Victory Square to finish the city tour by short excursion there. After excursion tourists may go shopping in the largest department store in the city – ZUM and a colorful oriental bazaar.
Farewell dinner in restaurant.
Overnight is in hotel

Day 14. (26 July / 23 August) Flight back home.
Drive: 40 km. / 1 h.
 Early in the morning transfer to the airport. Departure back home.

End of our service.

The price includes:

The price of program in 2017: 2230 USD per person.
SGL supplement in hotels: 130 USD per person.
SGL supplement in tents: 110 USD per person.

Supplement for climbing to Pesnya Abaya Peak: 55 USD / per person, incl. mountain guide service, and rent of rope, crampons, harness (for group of 5 pax and more price is 40 USD / pax)

The price included:
– accommodation in Bishkek in Asia Mountains hotel or similar – 3 nights
– accommodation in Issyk-Kul Lake – 1 night
– accommodation in Karakol town Amir or in Green Yard Guest House – 1 night
– accommodation and full board (hot food for breakfast and dinner, lunches as snack boxes) in the permanent tent camps along the trek At Jailoo – Base Camp “South Inylchek”
– 9 nights
– helicopter flight Base Camp “South Inylchek”- Base Camp “Karkara”
– all transfers as per program
– FB during whole program
– frontier zone permit
– mountain guide service
– porter service – not more than 12 kg per person (see below)
– all ecological and entrance fees as per program

The cost doesn’t include:
– visa support and visa fee (if necessary)
– all optional deviations from the main itinerary
– beverages and meals not included in main menu
– personal expenses (extra luggage, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc)

Your baggage on trek will be carried by porters.
The packed weight of your trek bag whilst trekking should be no more than 12 kg of personal belongings. 1kg extra – 12 USD per programs.
It is possible to leave travel clothes or other items not required on trek in our office – we will deliver them to Issyk-Kul Hotel on your arrival there after BC.

Menu

Always on the tables: honey, jam, sugar, condensed milk, dried fruits, cookies or sweets, salt, pepper, ketchup.

Breakfast: Each breakfast consists of porridge and additional dish.
Additional dish: omelet with bacon, omelet with cheese, fried sausages, pancakes, cheesecakes, scrambled eggs with sausage, boiled eggs.

Dinner: Each supper consists of salad, soup, main dish and dessert.
Salads: funchoza(starch noodles), rice with crab sticks, eggs with fish, cabbage with carrot, greek salad, beans with onion, cod-liver with eggs.
Soups: minestrone, kesme, lentil puree soup, rice soup, pumpkin puree soup, fish soup and soup with dumplings.
Main dish: kuurdak, pilaf, stew with spaghetti and cheese, dymlyama, stuffed pepper, lagman, befstroganof with rice.
Dessert: cakes, waffles, fruits and rolls.

Lunch-box: Consists of main dish, fruits or dried fruits, processed cheese, bread, chocolate, water (cold tea with lemon or compote)
Main dish: fried chicken, smoked chicken, smoked duck breast, cheese sandwich, cutlet, boiled eggs, meat pate.

For this trip you will need the following:

– 4 season sleeping bag
– walking boots
– waterproof jacket and trousers
– fleece jacket or similar
– warm hat and gloves
– sunglasses
– a daypack of around 40 liters
– head-torch and batteries
– 2 x 1 liter water bottles
– sun cream.

A down jacket, pair of sandals and walking sticks are recommended.

Souce: http://climberca.com/index.php/18-special-offer-for-khan-tengri-peak-expedition-2013

Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m)

This information in Russian

Guided Khan-Tengri Peak expedition – Special offer & fixed dates 2016

Acclimatization trek from «At-Jailoo» 2500m to BC «South Inylchek» 4100m + mountaineering program by the price: 2800 USD/person

Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 3rd of July and 30th of August in 2016.

The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as ‘The Mountains of Heaven’.
Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed – all by Soviet teams.

We offer a classical route – from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 or 4 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.

Route Description

The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward ‘scrambling’ for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches.
There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful.
From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40o, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m.

Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.
Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.

Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.

The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.

Khan Tengri routes

Basic program – 21 days
Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to hotel, accommodation in a hotel.
Day 2 Drive Bishkek – Karkara (460 km), accommodation at Karkara Base Camp.
Day 3 Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 4 Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 5 Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 6 Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 7 Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 8 Camp 3. 5900m.
Day 9 Descend to BC
Day 10 Day of rest and preparation.
Day 11 Day of rest and preparation.
Day 12 Camp 1.
Day 13 Camp 3.
Day 14 Camp 4. 6400m.
Day 15 Ascend to summit 7010m and descend to Camp 3.
Day 16 Descend to BC
Day 17 Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 18 Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 19 Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel
Day 20 Free day in Bishkek.
Day 21 Transfer to Airport

Schedule of helicopter flights in 2016:

July 3, 8, 10, 15, 17, 22, 24, 27, 29, 31
August 4, 5, 6, 7, 12, 14, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28

Cost of a full package in 2016 is 1850 USD per person.

Full package includes:

  • meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
  • transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel – airport in Bishkek;
  • transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
  • helicopter flight to BC and back;
  • unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
  • accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!);
  • accommodation in double tents with full board at BC “South Inylchek“;
  • free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
  • consultancy service of local guide;
  • consultancy of doctor;
  • registration with local Rescue Party;
  • ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
  • usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
  • rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
  • usage of fixed ropes on the route;
  • change of air-flight and railway tickets;
  • frontier zone permit;
  • official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

Cost of a small package in 2016 is 1120 USD per person.

Small package includes:

  • helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 3 EURO/kg);
  • free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
  • consultancy service of local guide;
  • consultancy of doctor;
  • registration with local Rescue Party;
  • ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
  • usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
  • rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
  • usage of fixed ropes on the route;
  • change of air-flight and railway tickets;
  • frontier zone permit;
  • official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

The cost for both packages does not include:

  • The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
  • International flight;
  • All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
  • Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
  • All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
  • The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;
  • The rent of mountaineering equipment;

Porter & guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment:

Guide services:
1 person – 1600 USD
2 person – 900 USD per person
3 person – 700 USD per person

Porter services:
BC – Camp 1 – 4 Euro/per kg
Camp 1 – Camp 2 – 8 Euro/per kg
Camp 2 – Camp 3 – 8 Euro/per kg

Note: Cost of porter services is calculated for both ascending and descending. Porters service should be booked before program.

Additional services at Base Camp:

Rent of tents for high camps – 80 USD per program

Gas cartridges

of 230 g (butane/propane) – 9 USD per one cartridge

Installed high-altitude tents

(3 pax in 1 tent!) 70 USD per night

International call

by satellite telephone – 4 USD/min
List of items, which will be of a use:
1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
4) High-altitude food

Guaranteed departure date for an expedition with an experienced mountaineering guide: 5 August to 26 August!

Undoubtedly, the Jewel of the Tien Shan is the wonderful pyramid of Khan-Tengri . Khan-Tengri peak, which is situated in the northerly and remote part of the great Asian mountains, takes the second place among the highest mounts. The local people call the white peaks ‘The Mountains of Heaven’. It was a Soviet expedition which first conquered the summit of Khan-Tengri peak in 1931, via the West Ridge and West Col. Soviet teams have climbed the majority of Khan-Tengri’s faces and ridges since then.

One of the classical routes we offer is started from the south, the Western Col is reached from the Southern Inylchek glacier. Among mountaineers this route is very popular. To climb peak Khan-Tengri 3 or 4 camps will be used taking into consideration weather conditions at the time.

Special offer for Khan Tengri Peak expedition 2014:

Guaranteed departure date for an expedition with an experienced mountaineering guide: 5 August to 26 August!

for more information please contact us:

e-mail: pagetour@ya.ru
tel.: +99898 303 98 46

http://www.climberca.com/index.php/18-special-offer-for-khan-tengri-peak-expedition-2013

Complete package Khan-Tengri and Pobeda (around 21 days of service)

• meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
• transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel – airport in Bishkek;
• transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
• helicopter flight to BC and back;
• unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
• accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!);
• accommodation in double tents with full board at BC “South Inylchek“;
• free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
• consultancy service of local guide;
• consultancy of doctor;
• registration with local Rescue Party;
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• change of air-flight and railway tickets;
• frontier zone permit;
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

Econoic package Khan-Tengri and Pobeda (around 21 days of service)

• helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 3 EURO/kg);
• free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
• consultancy service of local guide;
• consultancy of doctor;
• registration with local Rescue Party;
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• change of air-flight and railway tickets;
• frontier zone permit;
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

The cost for both packages does not include:

• The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
• International flight;
• All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
• Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
• All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
• The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;
• The rent of mountaineering equipment;

Porter & guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment:

Guide services:
1 person – 1200 Euro
2 person – 700 Euro per person
3 person – 550 Euro per person

Porter services:
BC – Camp 1 – 4 Euro/per kg
Camp 1 – Camp 2 – 8 Euro/per kg
Camp 2 – Camp 3 – 8 Euro/per kg

Note: Cost of porter services is calculated for both ascending and descending. Porters service should be booked before program.

Additional services at Base Camp:
Rent of tents for high camps – 60 Euro per program
Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 6 euro per one cartridge
International call by satellite telephone – 3 euro/min

http://www.climberca.com/index.php/26-pobeda-peak-expedition

ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.ru
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846 – when call, please take into consideration
our time zone – GMT+05:00

Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 6-th of July and 31st of August in 2014.


Khan-Tengri Peak

Schedule of helicopter flights in 2014:

July 6, 13, 17, 20, 24, 27, 29, 31
August 3, 7, 10, 14, 17, 21, 24, 28, 31

More info about this expedition:
http://climberca.com/index.php/17-khan-tengri-peak-7010-m

ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.ru
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846

Special offer for Khan Tengri Peak expedition 2014

Guaranteed departure date for an expedition with an experienced mountaineering guide:

5 August to 26 August


Khan-Tengri Peak

Basic program Bishkek-Bishkek:

05.08.2014 – Arrival to Bishkek. Transfer and accommodation in the hotel.
06.08.2014 – Transfer Bishkek – Karkara BC. Accommodation in double tents. Overnight.
07.08.2014 – Helicopter flight Karkara BC – South Inylchek BC (4000 m asl)
08.08.14-23.08.14 – Acclimatization and ascending program
24.08.2014 – Helicopter flight South Inylchek BC – Karkara BC. Transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in the hotel.
25.08.2014 – Free day in Bishkek.
26.08.2014 – Transfer to the airport. Departure from Bishkek.

Cost of this program in 2014: 2200 Euro/person.

Learn more about this program:

http://climberca.com/index.php/18-special-offer-for-khan-tengri-peak-expedition-2013

ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.ru
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846

Khan Tengri fixed dates + trek

Acclimatization trek from «At-Jailoo» 2500m to BC «South Inylchek» 4100m + expedition by the price: 1880 Euro/person

For many years climbers have trekked up to the Base Camp South Inylchek along the glacier in order to get a better acclimatization before climbing Khan Tengri and Pobeda peaks. The trek up along the glacier not only helps you to get better acclimatization, but also gives you a unique opportunity to enjoy the beautiful views of Tien Shan. The trek starts in At Jailoo gorge – an amazingly beautiful place on Inylchek river bank, one of your Camps overlooks stunning Nansen peak, and at the confluence of South and North Inylchek you can walk to see the famous Merzbacher Lake. But there were some people who wouldn’t accept this way of acclimatization because of the necessity to carry much – tents, food and personal belongings, etc. In 2014 “ClimberCA” will set up permanent tent Camps all along the route to make the trek possible and easy for you.

http://www.climberca.com/index.php/19-khan-tengri-fixed-dates-and-trek


ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.ru
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846