Climbing ABOVE 7000M PEAK in 2018

The international consortium ClimberCA offers you to climb popular ‘seventhousanders’ (mountain peaks 7000+) of Pamir, Tien-Shan, Karakorum and Hymalayas in 2018.

Contacts:
e-mail: your.climberca@ya.ru
telegram: +99898 3039846
watsapp/viber: +99897 7009846

We start with Pamir, here are located four recommended in 2018 7000+ peaks:
– Muztagh-Ata peak – 7546 m. – Bishkek-Bishkek expedition 3200 USD per pax or Kashgar-Kashgar 2950 USD per pax. This mountain peak is one of the most easily achievable peaks in the world and is of particular interest to skiers, as a climb to the top can be made with the use of skitouring equipment.

There an opportunity to join us in affordable, of 44 or 30 days program for climbing Communism Peak and/or Korzhenevskaya Peak in 2018.

– Communism Peak 7495 m. – Dushanbe-Dushanbe expedition (2500 USD per pax)
– Korzhenevskaya Peak 7105 m. – Dushanbe-Dushanbe expedition (2500 USD per pax)
Note. If you climb two peaks (Communism and Korjenevskaya) from the BC “Moskvina glade”, the cost is still 2500 USD per person.- Lenin Peak 7134 m. – Bishkek – Bishkek or Osh – Osh by the price 1180 USD/pax or 1000 USD/pax.

Two 7000+ peaks are located in Tien-Shan:
– Khan-Tengri – 7010 m. – Bishkek-Bishkek expedition. The full package in 2018 году is 1950 USD / pax
– Pobeda Peak 7439 m. – Bishkek-Bishkek expedition. Package price – 1950 USD / pax.
Note. If you climb two peaks (Khan-Tengri and Pobeda) from the BC “South Inylchek”, the cost is still 1950 USD per person.

Karakorum is presented by one the very popular 7000+ peak – Spantik – Islamabad – Islamabad expedition. Price 3450 USD. There are the fixed dates since 1-st & 31-st of July 2018

In Hymalayas we offer you to climb Gyajikang 7,038mThe price is 4500 USD.

Also, upon request, we organize expeditions to the following ABOVE 7000M. PEAKS:
– Pumori (7145 m);
– Putha Hiunchuli (7246m);
– Churen (7371m);
– Tilicho (7134m);
– Lhakpa Ri (7045m) – Tibet face
– Ganesh Himal (7429m)
– Himlung Himal (7126m)
– Baruntse (7125m)

Note: this list does not exclude the possibility of organizing an ascension to any other 7000+ summit of the Himalayas. Just send your enquiry!

Most affordable in 2018 remains the expedition to Lenin Peak. At the same time on this mountain according to the customer we include maximal comfortable for climbing packs, which ideal for non-professionals. This level of the service have no analogues in Central Asia.We provide pre-installed tents, food and sets for cooking at high-altitude camps, installed ropes, guides, porters. There are the fixed dates for guided climbs.

Next to Lenin peak, in terms of affordable price, follows Khan Tengri, which also has fixed dates for guided expeditions, with pre-installed tents, food and sets for cooking at high-altitude camps, installed ropes, guides, porters.

But that’s not all! For the first time in Central Asia we offer you to climb Lenin Peak and Khan-Tengri with oxygen! This unique program will not only make the ascent safer, but also increases the chances of successful ascent in a shorter time (12 days only)!

We wish you good climbs in 2018! your.climberca@ya.ru

Pobeda Peak Expedition 2018

Key Information

Tour Duration: 27 day(s)
Group Size: 1 – 10 people
Destination: Kyrgyzstan
Coordinates: 42°02′06″N 80°07′32″E
Specialty Categories: Mountain Climbing/Ascending Mountain Peaks
Season: Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 1st of July and 31st of August in 2018
International Airfare Included: No
Helicopter Flight to BC and back: Yes
Personal Travel Insurance Included: No
Personal Equipment Included: No
Tour Customizable: Yes
Price Per Person: Full package for 2018 is 1950 USD per person Self Guided Small package in 2018: 1230 USD per person
Mountain Guides Availability: Yes
Mountain Guide Service: 1 guide for 1 person – 2250 USD; 1 guide for 2 persons – 2600 USD; 1 guide for 3 persons – 3000 USD.
The Recommended Guide:Climber Ratio: 1:3

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram; +99897 7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

More info in Russian

Note:
– Climbing to 7000m requires excellent physical fitness and good health. You must be able to walk at altitude for several days consecutively. Average walking time is around 6-7 hours per day. Daily altitude gain is about 500-800 m. You need to be able to handle adverse weather and be comfortable camping on snow covered ground.
– Your insurance should permit you to work on a height above 4200 m.

Note:
Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 1st of July and 31st of August in 2018.

Pobeda Peak Expedition (7.439 m)

Pobeda Mountain PeakPeak Pobeda overranges all the other peaks of the majestic Tien Shan range with more than 400 meters. Together with its broad an complex built it makes for one of the most awesome sights in the mountains. The peak was already scaled in the thirties of the last century by Soviet climbers. But it was not known until the spring of 1943 that they had actually scaled the highest peak of these Northern mountains. In 1943 the Soviet team again succeeded in reaching the summit and this time it’s got its name under which it is still known: Peak Pobeda, meaning “Victory peak”.

It is a highly dangerous, exhausting and technical mountain to climb. Sometimes it’s called “ the coldest mountain on earth”. Actually it is one of the northest 7000+ peaks on the globe and most routes up it come from the West and Northwest. All these factors add an extra difficulty to climbing it. A frightening number of, mostly Russian, mountaineers lay down their lives on this ridge. This bad reputation made that not very many parties have visited the mountain during the last 10 year, and less experienced climbers stay away with it.

Route description

The most often climbed route, coming from the Southwest involves many kilometers of a mixed and broken ridge which is all situated above 7000 meter.

Advanced bace camp is located at Zvjozdochka glacier at 4600 m. Then early in the morning we head for camp at 5300m on Dickiy pass. Camp 3 is at snow plateau at 5700 metres where we will either use snow caves or tents. Further camps are then established at 6400m and 6800m, the upper camp being just before the long traverse (about 6 km. at the altitude above 7000m.) to the summit ridge. A final snow cave is normally established at 7100m towards the other end of the long traverse. The summit day is relatively long.

Basic program – 27 days.

Note: Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 1st of July and 31st of August in 2018.

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel. 
Day 2. Transfer Bishkek- Karkara ( 460 km ), accommodation at the Camp. 
Day 3. Fly by helicopter to BC “ South Inylchek ” (4000m). 
Day 4.  Acclimatization and preparation for ascent. 
Day 5. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent. Pobeda Peak
Day 6. Climb to the camp № 1. 4600m 
Day 7. Climb to the camp № 2. 5300m 
Day 8. Climb to the camp № 3. 5700m 
Day 9. Climb to the camp № 4 6400 m 
Day 10. Descent to the camp № 1.4600 m 
Day 11. Descent to the base camp. 
Day 12. Rest day. 
Day 13. Climb to the camp № 1. 
Day 14. Climb to the camp № 2. 
Day 15. Climb to the camp № 3. 
Day 16. Climb to the camp № 4. 
Day 17. Climb to the camp № 5. 6900 m 
Day 18. Climb to the camp № 6. 7100 m. 
Day 19. Ascent of summit and descent to the camp № 5 
Day 20. Descent to the camp № 3. 
Day 21. Descent to the camp № 1. 
Day 22. Descent to the base camp. 
Day 23. Additional day in case of bad weather. 
Day 24. Additional day in case of bad weather. 
Day 25. Helicopter flight to Karkara and transfer to Bishkek. Overnight in hotel. 
Day 26. Free day in Bishkek. Overnight in hotel. 
Day 27. Transfer to the airport. Departure.

Note: Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last minute changes. Our expedition equipment and food will have to be carried up over a period of time and several climbs to each camp. This routine, of climbing high and sleeping low before occupying each camp, will also provide essential acclimatization. This period will also include essential rest days taken at Base Camp. The expedition guide will work with the primary objective of getting as many people to the top as possible, rather than adhering to any previously laid down itinerary.

Cost of a full package in 2018 is 1950 USD per person.

Full package includes:
* meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
* transfer airport in Bishkek- hotel – airport in Bishkek;
* transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
* helicopter flight to BC and back;
* unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
* accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total)
* accommodation in double tents with fullboard at BC “South Inylchek”;
* free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek”;
* consultancy service of local guide;
* consultancy of doctor;
* registration with local Rescue Party;
* ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
* usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
* rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
* usage of fixed ropes on the route;
* change of air-flight and railway tickets;
* frontier zone permit;
* official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

Cost of a small package in 2018 is 1230 USD per person.

Small package includes:
*
helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 4 USD /kg);
* free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek”;
* consultancy service of local guide;
* consultancy of doctor;
* registration with local Rescue Party;
* ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
* usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
* rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
* usage of fixed ropes on the route;
* change of air-flight and railway tickets;
* frontier zone permit;
* official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

The cost of both packages does not include:
* The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
* International flight;
* All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
* Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
* All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
* The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;
* The rent of mountaineering equipment;

Guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment:

Guide services:
1 guide for 1 pax – 2250 USD;
1 guide for 2 pax – 2600 USD;
1 guide for 3 pax – 3000 USD

Additional services:
Rent of tents for high camps – 80 USD per program
Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 9 USD per one cartridge
International call by satellite telephone – 4 USD/min
Internet – 5 USD/hour

List of items, which will be of a use:
1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
4) High-altitude food

Schedule of helicopter flights in 2018:

July 1, 6, 9, 10, 12, 13, 15, 18, 20, 22, 25, 27, 29, 31
August 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 10, 12, 15, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 30, 31

Your guides

Ilyas TuhvatullinWe recommend your group to be accompanied by one or more Mountain Guides of ClimberCA consortium. For further information and booking please e-mail us your@climberca.com

Mountain Safety

Pobeda Peak is a tough mountain. Firstly, it is world’s ultimate northern mountain of seven-odd thousand meters high (“seventhousander”). Secondly, meteorological conditions of the region are so unpredictable and severe that it deservingly gave a peak a nick-name of “Treacherous Corner”. Even in the summer time, as a bolt from the blue, a snow storm may burst out here – with the winds blowing at 150km/h and nil visibility – and then, again all of a sudden, it may stop.

In winter this region is even more severe. And there is nothing for mountaineer to do here in the winter time. Only once, over nearly 70-years long history of exploration, in 1990, mountaineers got to the top of Pobeda in winter, after which event half of the expedition members had to spend quite a time at Sklifasovsky hospital in Moscow, and, as you can guess, not at all for having a rest there.

Till up to 1969, the number of those who succeeded and stayed alive and those who died on the peak was nearly equal. Only after 1969 mountaineers have outscored the deadly statistics. But it does not mean that the mountain has become easier to climb. It is all just about better tactics and some other novelties that helped the case.

Of course, more advanced contemporary gear contributed to that, too. Nonetheless, it happens nearly every season that somebody dies in the area – either of falling down or of altitude sickness or of hypothermia. Most often it happens due to human mistakes and stupidity. Still such objective hazards as avalanches and bad weather should not be discarded, too.

As ascending Mountain peaks imply a sojourn in high mountains, everyone must follow specific safety rules. An accident while mountain climbing generally has unexpected and negative consequences. A seemingly small mistake, such as twisting an ankle in loose rocks, can quickly turn into a dangerous situation if the climber is on difficult terrain and is still some distance from the base camp. Climbers can minimize the consequences of these mistakes by traveling in groups, carrying first aid equipment, and being cautious in their route planning. Alpine climbers are also exposed to perils beyond their control, such as hidden crevasses and avalanches, and because of the inhospitable environment of most mountains, they risk exposing themselves to hypothermia and altitude sickness. Experienced mountaineers plan ahead for all contingencies and let others know their destination and planned return time.

Crevasses are deep ice fissures or large cracks within a glacier. Many times crevasses are hidden under a covering of snow, making them difficult to identify. Their steep, slippery sides make them almost impossible to climb out of without assistance. For this reason, climbers often rope together and secure themselves to each other when traveling on glaciers and snowfields. Should one partner fall in a crevasse, the other can break the fall and then pull their partner out.

Avalanches are sudden flows of a large mass of snow or ice down a slope or cliff, sometimes at speeds exceeding 160 km/h (100 mph). They occur when heavy snowfall accumulates on steep slopes and the underlying snow pack cannot support the new snow’s weight. Mountaineers can minimize avalanche dangers by staying aware of rapid changes of weather, especially increases in temperature and wind. They should also avoid steep, narrow chutes that provide ideal channels for avalanches.

Hypothermia occurs when the body becomes too chilled to generate enough warmth for vital organs such as the heart and lungs. Most climbers understand that hypothermia is a danger during extremely cold weather, but it also can occur when temperatures are well above freezing. In fact, most cases occur when the outside temperature is from 7° to 10°C (45° to 50°F). Avoiding hypothermia requires several simple precautions. Mountain climbers should stay dry and avoid cotton clothing, which dries slowly and sucks away body warmth as it does dry. They should eat, drink water, and rest frequently, helping them maintain energy levels.

Altitude sickness, also known as mountain sickness, is caused by insufficient oxygen at high elevations. It causes dizziness, shortness of breath, and confusion, and it can strike climbers at any elevation above 2,400 m (about 8,000 ft). Mountaineers who ascend to higher altitudes often take a day or two to become accustomed to their new environment. They climb slowly when going above 4,500 m (15,000 ft). If climbers develop symptoms of altitude sickness, they should descend immediately to a lower altitude before the condition worsens. Some climbers use bottled oxygen to combat the effects of the sickness and aid their efforts at higher altitudes.

Appreciation:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peak_Pobeda
http://encarta.msn.com/encyclopedia_761568485_3/Mountain_Climbing.html

Picture appreciation: http://niosa-data1.narod.ru/TienShan_07/img/img_0272.htm

Lenin Peak. Full board up to the summit with high altitude guide service.

Guaranteed departure date expedition 2018. Lenin Peak. Full board expedition on the sharing in the tents basis.

Key information:

Duration of the tour: 21 days
The number of climbers in the group: 2-15
Elevation: 7134 m
Location: Kyrgyzstan
Lat/Lon: 39.34690°N/72.86920°E
Peculiarity: High altitude climbing, mountaineering & All inclusive GUIDED tours.
Season: July – August; Base Camp in 2018, will operate between
July 1st till September 2nd, 2018.
Maximum comfortable packs, ideal for entry-level climbers: Available
The cost of international flights:
Not included
The cost of local flight: Included (In Bishkek – Bishkek packages only)
The cost of personal insurance: Not included
Personal equipment: Not included. Please note that we do not rent plastic boots, crampons, ice axes, carabiners, belay systems, ascender / descender devices, warm clothes, sleeping bags, sleeping mats and other items of personal use.
The price of AI package in 2018: Bishkek-Bishkek: 2050 USD/pax. Osh-Osh: 1870 USD/pax.
High-Altitude guide: Included
The maximum ratio guide – customers: 1:3

Supplier of services:
ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us.
Quick reference phone:
+99898 3039846 – telegram; +99897
7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Fixed dates on the sharing in the tents basis.

1 July to 22 July
Basic program: 21 days:
01.07.17    – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
2.07.17  – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
03.07.17-19.07.17  – acclimatization and ascending program.
20.07.17  – transfer to Osh.
21.07.17  – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
22.07.17  – flight home.

8 July to 29 July.
Basic program: 21 days:
08.07.17 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
09.07.17 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
10.07.17-26.07.17 – acclimatization and ascending program.
27.07.17 – transfer to Osh.
28.07.17 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
29.07.17 – flight home.

15 July to 5 August

Basic program: 21 days:
15.07.17 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
16.07.17 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
17.07.17-02.08.17 – acclimatization and ascending program.
03.08.17 – transfer to Osh.
04.08.17 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
05.08.17 – flight home.

22 July to 12 August
Basic program: 21 days:
22.07.17 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
23.07.17 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
24.07.17-09.08.17 – acclimatization and ascending program.
10.08.17 – transfer to Osh.
11.08.17 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
12.08.17 – flight home.


29 July to 19 August

Basic program: 21 days:
29.07.17 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
30.07.17 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
31.07.17-16.08.17 – acclimatization and ascending program.
17.08.17 – transfer to Osh.
18.08.17 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
19.08.17 – flight home.

5 August to 26 August
Basic program: 21 days:
05.08.17 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
06.08.17 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
07.08.17-23.08.17 – acclimatization and ascending program.
24.08.17 – transfer to Osh.
25.08.17 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
26.08.17 – flight home.

12 August to 2 September
Basic program: 21 days:
12.08.17 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
13.08.17 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
14.08.17-30.08.17 – acclimatization and ascending program.
31.08.17 – transfer to Osh.
01.09.17 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
02.09.17 – flight home.

Cost of the guided expedition Bishkek – Bishkek in 2018 is 2050 USD/pax.

Cost of the guided expedition Osh – Osh in 2018 is 1870 USD/pax.

Given cost includes services of full package and additional services: 

  • Experienced high altitude guide
  • Installed high altitude tents on 5300 м and 6200 м (3 persons in tent!)
  • Group equipment: rope (if needed), gas and gas stoves, cooking set.
  • High altitude food
  • Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary);
  • Meeting/seeing off at the airport;
  • Flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek and back (please note only 15 kg incl. hand luggage are free of charge!; Extra kilo costs 1-2 USD/kilo)
  • Transfer Osh – Base Camp – Osh;
  • Lunch en route to/from BC;
  • Accommodation in hotel for 4 nights (in Bishkek-Bishkek package) and for 2 nights (in Osh-Osh package);
  • Rent of walkie-talkie;
  • Registration with rescue team;
  • Ecological fee;

Services at Base Camp and Camp1, which are included into all packs on this page:

Services in the base camp “Achik Tash” on 3600m:

Services in the camp 1 on 4400m:

Accommodation in double tents. Each tent is equipped with mattresses and wooden platforms and electricity.

Accommodation in double tents with mattresses and wooden platforms.

Meals – full board

Meals – full board

Guide-consultant’s services

Guide-consultant’s services

Dining-tent, WC, storage, baths and shower

Dining-tent, WC tent, storage tent

Medical kit

Medical first aid in the base camp (professional doctor)

Electricity 220V, permanent source of electricity!

Electricity 220V, 50HZ, only in the evening in the dining room, source-generator

Transport schedule Osh – BC “Achik Tash” for 2018:

July

2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31

August

2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14

Transport schedule BC “Achik Tash” – Osh for 2018:

July

20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28, 30, 31

August

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31, 1

The cost of extra services:

Porter Services:

Base Camp (3600 m) – Camp1 (4400m) – 3 USD per kg
Camp 1 (4400 m) – Camp2 (5300m) – 6 USD per kg
Camp 2 (5300 m) – Camp3 (6100 m) – 8 USD per kg
Camp 1 (4400m) – Camp3 (6100m) – 14 USD per kg
* We are counting carrying up and carrying down the baggage separately. The price for carrying up and carrying down is the same.

Equipment:

Rent of high altitude tent – 80 USD per tent.
Rent of already installed high altitude tent – 60 USD per night.
* Usually we use ARCTIC FOX SILICONE and FOX EXPLORER tents.
High altitude food (high altitude food is preparing by yourself) – 120 USD per set.
Gas cartridge Kovea (230ml, screw) – 9 USD per balloon.
Rent of rope – 30 USD for program.
Rent of cooking set – 25 USD per set.
Rent of gas stove – 25 USD per stove.

Equipment for camps 2 and 3 for Lenin Peak

At the camp 2 at the height 5300m a.s.l. and the camp 3 at the height 6200m a.s.l. there are tents FOX EXPLORER for double/triple accommodation and ARCTIC FOX SILICONE for double accommodation.

List of items, which will be of use:

1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
4) High-altitude foodstuff

The set of the high-altitude foodstuff

  Name 
in asortimente max.
1 quick cooked porridge  porridge in pack  “Bistrof” 15 bags,  40 gr 
2  groats rolled oats; semolina; musli 1000 gr 
3  meat fat; smoked fat; smoked sausage, meat cuts, sausage product 1500 gr 
4  cheese product 

cheese, melted cheese

1500 gr
5  dried fruits  dried apricots; raisins; prunes; dates; peanuts; walnut 1500 gr 
6  chocolate 

snikers; mars; chocolate in bars

10 bars, 60 gr 
7  sweet  chocolate candles; honey; halva; jem,biscuits in assortiment 2000 gr
8  garnish 

quick cooked: noodle ; пюре; rice; buckwheat

1000 gr
9 canned food  canned stewed meat; fish; condensed sweet milk 5 cans
10 sublimated soup   in assortment 10 bags, 60 gr
11 hot drinks  Tea; coffee; cacao; sugar; dry milk 70 packs
12 cold drinks  instant drinks in assortment 10 packs
13 bakery product  crackers; bread; biscuits 1500 gr
14

Others

 

solt; mustard; lemons; ketchup; polyethylene bag; toilet paper;candles ; wipes; if needed

ClimberCA International Consortium About Us
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www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
pagetour@ya.ru
tel. +99897 7009846 – WhatsApp;
tel. +99898 3039846 – telegram – GMT+05:00

 

Lenin peak + Khan-Tengri+Pobeda peaks for one season.

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram; +99897 7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Itinerary

Day 1.Arrival in Bishkek. Flight to Osh,accommodation in hotel.
Day 2.Transfer to base camp “Achyk-Tash”
Day 3.Acclimatization ascent of “Petrovskogo” peak. Descent to the base camp.
PreparationdayforclimbtoCamp 1.
Day 4.Climb to the Camp 1 (4400 m)
Day 5.Acclimatization ascent of “Domashniy” peak (4700m). Descent to the Camp 1.
Preparation day for climb to the Camp 2.
Day 6.Climb to the Camp 2 (5300m)
Day 7.Climb to the Camp 3 (6200m)
Day 8.Descent to the camp 1 (4400m)
Day 9.Descent to the base camp (3600 м.)
Day 10.Rest day
Day 11.Preparation day
Day 12.Climb to the Camp 1 (4400m)
Day 13.Climb to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 14.Climb to the Camp 3 (6200 m)
Day 15.Ascent of the Lenin peak summit (7134 m) and descent to the Camp 3.

Day 16.Descent to the camp 1 (4400m)
Day 17.Descent to the base camp (3600 m)
Day 18.Descent to the base camp.
Day 19.Rest day
Day 20.Transfer to Osh.
Day 21.Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 22.Free day in Bishkek.
Day 23.Transfer Bishkek – Karkara (460 km), accommodation at Karkara Base Camp.

Day 24.Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 25.Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 26.Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 27.Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 28.Camp 3. 5900m.
Day 29.Camp 4. 6400 m.
Day 30.Ascend to summit 7010m and descend to Camp 3.
Day 31.Descend to BC
Day 32.Rest day
Day 33.Preparation day
Day 34.Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 35.Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 36.Camp 3. 5900m
Day 37.Camp 4. 6400m
Day 38.Camp5. 6900m
Day 39.Camp6. 7100m
Day 40.Ascent of the Pobeda Peak summit 7439 and descent to the camp 5
Day 41.Descent to Camp 3. 5900m
Day 42.Descent to Camp 1. 4200m
Day 43.Descent to BC
Day 44.Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 45.Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 46.Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at
hotel
Day 47.Free day in Bishkek.
Day 48.Transfer to Airport

Schedule of transport and helicopter flights in 2018:

The schedule of transport to BC (Osh – Achik-Tash):

July
2 3 4 6 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 28 29 30 31
August
2 3 5 6 7 8 9 12 13 14

The schedule of transport from BC (Achik-Tash – Osh):

July
20 21 22 24 26 27 28 29 30 31
August/September
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 15 16 17 18 20 21 23 24 25 26 27 30 31 1

Schedule of helicopter flights for 2018:

July
1, 6, 9, 10, 12, 13, 15, 18, 20, 22, 25, 27, 29, 31
August
2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 10, 12, 15, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 30, 31

Cost of the program full package:

Bishkek – Bishkek program full package: 2700 USD/person

The package price includes:

• meeting / seeing off at the airport, Bishkek, and Osh.
• transfers airport – hotel – airport, Bishkek, and Osh.
• transfer Osh – base camp Achik-Tash – Osh.
• transfer Bishkek – helipad Karkara – Bishkek.
• flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek (free baggage allowance – 15 kg; over transportation additionally paid – 1-2 USD/kg).
• helicopter flight to base camp South Inylchek transportation (transportation of cargo without limit).
• accommodation in hotels in Bishkek and in Osh with breakfast (not more than 5 nights!).
• lunch on the road Osh – Achik-Tash – Osh and Bishkek – Karkara – Bishkek.
• accommodation and meals (3 times a day) in the Base Camps: “Achik-Tash”, “Camp No. 1 on 4400 m”, “South Inylchek” and “Karkara”.
• free use of a hot shower or bath, toilet, lockers in Base Camps: “Achik-Tash”, “Camp No. 1 at 4400 m”, “South Inylchek” and “Karkara”.
• consultation guide.
• consultation of doctor.
• registration is saved in the squad.
• environmental fee for living in camps.
• fixed “rod” when climbing.
• the use of distant radio.
• rental stations during climbing (only for groups of more than 3 persons).
• exchange service tickets and railway tickets.
• a pass in the border/area.
• registration on the territory of Kyrgyzstan (if necessary).

The package price does not include:

• The cost of the Kyrgyz visa
• International flight
• Meals not included in the program – meals on the mountain above camp 1, and in the cities
• Alcoholic drinks
• Personal expenses (insurance, overweight in airplanes, etc.)
• Services of a mountain guide and porters
• Renting of personal and group climbing equipment

Additional service in BC:

Additional service in BC Achik-Tash:

• Rent of mountaineering tent – 80 USD per program.
• Accommodation in installed tents (in high altitude camps 2,3) – 60 USD per night.
• Gas cylinders firm KOVEA (230 g) – 9 USD per tank.

Additional service in BC South Inylchek:

• Rent of mountaineering tent – 80 USD per program.
• Gas cylinders firm KOVEA (230 g) – 9 USD per tank.
• International calls – 4 USD/min • Internet – 5 USD/hour

Mountain Guide services for Lenin Peak:

1 guide for 1 person – 1400 USD
1 guide for 2 persons – 1600 USD
1 guide for 3 persons – 1800 USD

Mountain Guide services for Khan-Tengri Peak:

1 guide for 1 person – 1600 USD
1 guide for 2 persons – 1800 USD
1 guide for 3 persons – 2100 USD

Mountain Guide services for Pobeda Peak:

1 guide for 1 person – 2250 USD
1 guide for 2 persons – 2600 USD
1 guide for 3 persons – 3000 USD

List of needed Personal equipment:

Backpack – 85 liters, Sleeping bag -1, Sleeping pad – 1, Harness – 1, Carbines – 4, Jumar – 1, Crampons– 1, Repshnur (6-7 mm) – 5 m, Ice axe – 1, Sun glasses – 1 or 2, Torch (headlamp) -1 + set of spare batteries, Ice screw -2, Folding knife – 1, Down jacket/parka -1, Gortex: pants, jacket – 1 suit, Polartec: jacket 200 -1; pants – 1, Thermal underwear – 1 suit, Polartec 100 – 1 suit (jacket, pants), Polartec gloves -1, Overmitts – 1.+ windproof -1, Warm hat -1, Balaclava -1, Warm socks -2 pairs, Socks, Gamashi, Sun protection crèam, Figure-8 descender – 1, Telescopic Sticks (poles). – 1, Avalanche shovel –1, High altitude boots – 1, Trekking boots -1.

The set of the high-altitude products

The cost of set:120 USD

  Name 
in asortimente max.
1 quick cooked porridge  porridge in pack  “Bistrof” 15 bags,  40 gr 
2  groats rolled oats; semolina; musli 1000 gr 
3  meat fat; smoked fat; smoked sausage, meat cuts, sausage product 1500 gr 
4  cheese product 

cheese, melted cheese

1500 gr
5  dried fruits  dried apricots; raisins; prunes; dates; peanuts; walnut 1500 gr 
6  chocolate 

snikers; mars; chocolate in bars

10 bars, 60 gr 
7  sweet  chocolate candles; honey; halva; jem,biscuits in assortiment 2000 gr
8  garnish 

quick cooked: noodle ; пюре; rice; buckwheat

1000 gr
9 canned food  canned stewed meat; fish; condensed sweet milk 5 cans
10 sublimated soup   in assortment 10 bags, 60 gr
11 hot drinks  Tea; coffee; cacao; sugar; dry milk 70 packs
12 cold drinks  instant drinks in assortment 10 packs
13 bakery product  crackers; bread; biscuits 1500 gr
14

Others

 

solt; mustard; lemons; ketchup; polyethylene bag; toilet paper;candles ; wipes; if needed

Contact us

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram; +99897 7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Lenin Peak Sky Race

Mountaineering Competition “Lenin Peak Sky Race”

This page in Russian >>>

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us.
Quick reference phone:
+99898 3039846 – telegram +99897 7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Lenin Peak is the highest summit of Zailiysky Range. Its height is 7134 meters above sea level. There are 3 seven thousand meters peaks on the territory of Kyrgyzstan, and Lenin Peak is the most accessible and popular amongst the mountain climbers of the world.

As a rule, Lenin Peak is a starting summit for “Snow Leopard” program. Lenin Peak is a success with experienced climbers and down hill skiers. The mount itinerary isn’t of particular technical difficulty. And, the descent from the seven thousand meters peak makes an indelible impression even upon the supporter of the most extreme sports. Weather conditions are propitious enough in the region of Lenin Peak. However, you shouldn’t forget that Lenin Peak is seven thousand meters summit that is why a principal difficulty of the expedition to the Lenin Peak is an altitude. Low temperatures, the periods of foul weather, as well as avalanches must be taken into account. The “Achik Tash” Base Camp, which is the starting point for the expedition to Lenin Peak, is situated on a verdant glade at an altitude of 3000 meters a. s. l. The 1st camp is located on a moraine at an altitude of 4400 meters above sea level. The both camps offer a comfortable accommodation and give a perfect possibility to have a good rest during the expedition.

Descriptions and conditions

The race will be held on August 11, 2018. The competition starts in BC “Achik Tash” located at the altitude of 3600 m, over Puteshestvennikov (Travelers) Pass (4100 m) to Camp 1 (4400m) and finishes in BC “Achik Tash”. The distance is 24 km (+1500m)
The skyrunning is open to all athletes who are over the age of 18 years. The result of participant is defined from the start point till finish. The start and finish are located in ”Achik Tash”Base Camp. Participants who have reached the finish without any assistance and returned to the start point not later than 2pm of the start day are considered to have completed the race successfully.

The check points of the race will be discussed separetely. In case of control time exceeding the participant will be recommended to go down to the base camp. Any kind of transport or additional help use are strictly prohibited. Each participant should be aware of the risk he/she undertakes while the race. Each participant undertakes the responsibility for his/her health condition and safety. The operator of the race provide first medical aid where necessary. The Organizers of the competition check the route and provide the belaying where necessary. The fact a participant takes part in the race means his/her physical and professional.

Itinerary

09 August – Arrival in Achik Tash Base Camp, registration of participants.
10 August – active acclimatization, walk up to Puteshestvennikov Pass
11 August – 8:00 am start. 07:00 pm Competition sum up, Rewarding Ceremony
12 August – reserve day
13 August – Departure from Base Camp

ATTENTION: EACH PARTICIPANT MUST HAVE SAFETY AND MEDICAL INSURANCE!

Program Bishkek-Bishkek:

07.08. Arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the hotel. Overnight in a hotel;
08.08. Flight to Osh. Transfer Osh – Base Camp “Achik Tash”;
09.08. Acclimatization.
10.08. Preparation for the run up, registration;
11.08. Run up; Competition sum up, Awarding Ceremony;
12.08. Reserve day;
13.08. Transfer to Osh;
14.08. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in the hotel;

Program Osh-Osh:

08.08. Arrive to Osh in the morning. Transfer Osh – Base Camp “Achik Tash”;
09.08. Acclimatization.
10.08. Preparation for the run up, registration;
11.08. Run up; Competition sum up, Awarding Ceremony;
12.08. Reserve day;
13.08. Transfer to Osh;

Price

1 – Program Bishkek – Bishkek full package: 600 USD/person

The border permit for visiting the border zone and registration in OVIR (if needed);
Transfer airport – hotel – airport in Osh and in Bishkek;
Air tickets Bishkek- Osh – Bishkek (luggage allowance – 15 kg free of charge; more than 15 kg is to be paid extra – 1-2 USD/кг);
All transfers as per program;
Accommodation in Bishkek and in Osh (not more than 4 nights!) in a hotel with breakfast;
Lunch or lunch box on the way from Osh to the Base Camp and from the Base Camp to Osh;
Walkie-talkie rent;
Registration in the rescue team;
Ecological fee.

2 – Program Osh-Osh full package:420 USD/pax

The price of the full package Osh – Base Camp – Osh includes:
The border permit for visiting the border zone and registration in OVIR (if needed);
Transfer airport – hotel – airport in Osh;
Transfer Osh-Base Camp “Achik Tash” – Osh;
Lunch or lunch box on the way from Osh to the Base Camp and from the Base Camp to Osh;
Registration in the rescue team;
Ecological fee.

3 – Small package: 150 USD/pax
The price of the small package includes:
Transfer Osh – Achik Tash Base Camp – Osh
Accommodation at the territory of the Base Camp and Camp 1in your own tents, using the infrastructure of the Base Camp and Camp 1*
Ecological fee.
Registration in the rescue team;
Walkie-talkie rent (only for group of 3 People and more)
The border permit for visiting the border zone and registration in OVIR (if needed);
Medical doctor-consultant’s service
If necessary it is possible to use the set tents at 5300m and 6200m during the run up.
* – For those who use the small package of the high speed ascent to Lenin Peak accommodation and meal in the Base Camp and in Camp 1 is not more than 5 days

All the packages do not include:

Kyrgyz visa fee
Starting fee (10 usd per person)
International flight
Meals not mentioned in the program and not included into the package
Alcoholic drinks
Personal expenses (insurance , payment for extra luggage on the air lanes)
Mountain guide service
Climbing equipment rent

Transport schedule Osh – BC “Achik Tash” for 2018:

July

2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31

August

2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14

Transport schedule BC “Achik Tash” – Osh for 2018:

July

20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28, 30, 31

August

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31, 1

List of nessary equipment

Backpack
Sleeping bag -1
Sleeping pad – 1
Sun glasses – 1 or 2.
Torch (headlamp) -1 + set of spare batteries
Folding knife – 1
Down jacket/parka -1
Gortex: jacket – 1 suit
Polartec: jacket 200 -1; pants – 1
Thermal underwear – 1 suit
Trekking boots – 1

Razdelnaya peak expedition

We invite everybody, who wants to feel high-altitude experience, has a dream to conquer a big mountain, and loves beautiful mountain landscapes to make an ascent to the Razdelnaya Peak.

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational ConsortiumAbout Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram; +99897 7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Razdelnaya Peak is situated between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan in Pamir mountain chain.The classical route to Lenin Peak (7134 m.) cross the top of Razdelnaya, but climbing 7 thousander needs more time and energy, that`s why experienced mountain guides recommend to beginner alpinists to start from Peak Razdelnaya. To reach the top successfully one should have perfect personal physical condition, good stamina, and appropriate climbing equipment.

Our Base Camps is active from the 1st of July till the 2nd of September, 2018.

The Achik-Tash base camp, from which the ascent begins, is situated in the alpine  meadows at an altitude of 3600 meters above the level sea.  Next, Camp № 1, is located on the moraine, at an altitude of 4 400 meters. Both camps offer comfortable conditions for accommodation, and provide an ideal opportunity for rest and recovery after completion of the expedition.

Route Description

From the base camp “Achik-Tash” to “Lukovaya Polana” (Onion field), is a one hour hike along an dirt road, but can be covered in a vehicle. Then a good trail over Travelers’ Pass, continuing at the foot of the slope of the spurs on the right side of Lenin Glacier, arrives at camp №  1 (ABC) after 4 or 5 hours. Camp № 1 is located on the glacial moraine of Lenin Peak. Before reaching the moraine, it is necessary to cross a river.

Usually, it is necessary to leave Camp №1 for Camp №2 an hour before sunrise, in order to avoid the heat and wet snow.  Crossing the moraine, coming to the bottom of Northern Slope, it is necessary put on mountaineering boots and for members of the party to tether together. It is important that the length of the rope between mountaineers should not be less than 10 meters.  The ascent should be achieved by the Northern sharp slope, to the left of the icefall, avoiding multiple ice crevices. The most difficult and dangerous places should be equipped with a parapet. The upper part of the route goes to the right, before the big ice plateau named “Skovorodka”.  It is necessary to cross the plateau from the left to the right. Camp №2, lies at an altitude of 5300 meters, on the upper moraine at the foot of the Northern-West crest. The time from camp №1 to camp №  2 is usually 7-9 hours.

From the camp №2 the route takes a steep ascent to the North-Western crest. Then the route bears left before the sharp summit of Razdelnaya. Camp № 3 is located on the wide dome of the Peak, at the altitude 6100 meters above the sea level. The time from camp № 2 to camp №  3 is usually 4-6 hours.

From the camp №3 on the canopy with a small set of heights move to the right and ascent the top of peak Razdelnaya 6148 m.

Day by day program

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to the hotel, hotel accommodation.

Arrival at the airport. After retrieving baggage and passing customs control upon arrival at the “Manas” international airport, you will be met by a representative of our company, who  will give you all the necessary documents and permits, after which you will be taken to the 3* hotel located in the center of our capital city – Bishkek.

Day 2. Flight to Osh. Transfer Osh-Achik-Tash.

After an early breakfast, the driver will pick you up and take you to the morning flight Bishkek-Osh. In Osh you will be met by our representative, and further on our transport you will be delivered to the Base Camp “Achik-Tash”.

Day 3. Acclimatization in the base camp, walk to the waterfall.

After the breakfast, group goes on acclimatization walk. Return to camp. Lunch. Rest. Checking of the high-altitude equipment.

Day 4. Acclimatization hike to the ridge of Petrovsky peak.

After breakfast, there would be an acclimatize hike to the ridge. Ascent up to the snow, up to a height of 4000 m. There are spectacular views of the Alai valley and the Achik-Tash tract from the top. Return to Base Camp for lunch. Rest, packing stuff for tomorrow trek to camp 1.

Day 5. Trek to  the Camp 1 (4400 m).

After breakfast, we go to camp 1. The baggage can be sent by horse (for an additional fee). The path goes through the alpine meadows, through the Puteshestvennikov Pass, and further along the slope of the ridge along the Lenin Glacier. The path takes 4-7 hours.

Day 6. Ascent to Domashniy peak or to Yuhin peak 5100 m.

We leave camp after the breakfast. Ascent does not require special equipment. Depending on the status of the group, you can climb to the Home peak 4700 m, or go from the Domashniy peak and go up to the Yukhin peak of 5100 m. Return to Camp 1.

Day 7. Preparation for the ascent.
In the morning, we exercise on ice. We go through the rules of movement across the glacier, work in a rope team, climb and descent along a fixed rope, skills of self-rescue and rescue of the injured from a glacial fissure. Rest, packing stuff for tomorrow ascend to camp 2.

Day 8. Trek to the Camp 2. (5300 m).
We leave at 4 o’clock in the morning. Ascent along the northern slope of Lenin Peak. Moving on crampons, in rope teams, crossing glacial cracks. The transition takes 7-9 hours. Overnight in tents in camp 2. Self-cooking.

Day 9. Ascent to Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m).
We leave at 9 am. In some meters a steep rise to the ridge. Moving along a wide ridge and again a steep ascent to the top of the Razdelnaya Peak. Moving on crampons in rope team. The average transit time is 4-6 hours. Descent to Camp 2. Overnight in camp 2, Self-cooking.

Day 10. Descent to the base camp 3600 m.
Early in the morning we start descent from camp 3 to Camp 1. Moving on crampons in rope team. Lunch in the camp 1. After lunch, descend to the base camp. Dinner at the base camp.

Day 11. Reserve day

Reserve day in case of bad weather.

Day 12. Transfer from Achik-Tash to Osh. Hotel accommodation.

After breakfast, will be organized transfer from Base Camp to Osh. You will be delivered to hotel.

Day 13. Flight to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation.

After early breakfast, our driver will be taken you to the airport for the morning flight from Osh to Bishkek. In Bishkek you will be met and taken to the 3* hotel.

Day 14. Transfer to airport. Departure from Bishkek.

The driver will take you from the hotel at the necessary time and take you to the airport to the right flight.

Guaranteed departure dates program

Guaranteed departure date expedition with experienced mountaineering guide.

For you convenience in 2018 we organize four group departures with fixed dates!

11 July to 24 July

Basic program: 14 days:
11.07.18 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
12.07.18 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
13.07.18-21.07.18 – acclimatization and ascending program.
22.07.18 – transfer to Osh.
23.07.18 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
24.07.18 – flight home.

25 July to 8 August 

Basic program: 14 days:
25.07.18 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
26.0087.18 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
27.07.18-05.08.18 – acclimatization and ascending program.
06.08.18 – transfer to Osh.
07.08.18 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
08.08.18 – flight home.

7 August to 20 August 

Basic program: 14 days:
07.08.18 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
08.08.18 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
09.08.18-17.08.18 – acclimatization and ascending program.
18.08.18 – transfer to Osh.
19.08.18 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
20.08.18 – flight home.

13 August to 26 August 

Basic program: 14 days:
13.08.18 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
14.08.18 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
15.08.18-23.08.18 – acclimatization and ascending program.
24.08.18 – transfer to Osh.
25.08.18 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
26.08.18 – flight home.

Transport schedule

Transport schedule Osh – BC “Achik Tash” for 2018:

July
2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31

August
2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14

Transport schedule BC “Achik Tash” – Osh for 2018:

July
20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28, 30, 31

August
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31, 1

We provide transfers by Mercedes microbuses in groups of 10-15 people. Individual transfers are done by 4×4 vehicles or minivans.

The cost of program in 2018

Cost of the guided expedition Bishkek – Bishkek in 2018: 1440 USD per person

The price includes services of full package:

– boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)
– meeting/seeing off at the airport
– transfer Osh – Base Camp “Achik-Tash” – Osh (according with schedule)
– transfer BC – Lukovaya valley – BC (according with schedule)
– flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek and back (please note that local airlines allow only 15 free of charge luggage! Extra kilo costs about 1-2    USD)
– 4 nights at a hotel with breakfast (in Osh and Bishkek)
– lunch en route to/from BC
– registration with rescue team
– ecological fee

The price includes services of full package plus additional services:  
– Experienced high altitude guide
– Guaranteed installed high altitude tents (2 pax in one tent) on 5300 m
– Group equipment: rope (if needed), gas and gas stoves, cooking set.
– High altitude food

Services in the base camp “Achik Tash” on 3600m:
– Accommodationin double tents. Each tent is equipped with mattresses and wooden platforms and electricity.
– Meals – full board. Buffet breakfast
– Guide-consultant’s services
– Dining-tent, WC, storage, hot shower
– First aid and consultation of doctor
– Electricity 220V, permanent source of electricity!

Services in the camp 1 on 4400m:
– Accommodation in double tents. Each tent is equipped with mattresses and wooden platforms.
– Meals – full board. Early breakfast from 3 to 4 a.m. on request
– Guide-consultant’s services
Dining-tent, WC tent, storage tent
Medical kit
Electricity 220V, 50HZ, only in the evening from 6 to 10 p.m., source is generator.

Additional services

– Bath in BC and C1 (capacity – 2-3 people) – $25/hour;
– Gas cartridge Kovea (230ml, screw) – $9/ per balloon & $10/ per balloon in C1;
– Accommodation in a tent (2-bed accommodation), including use of electricity, water, toilet, without meal in BC and C1 – $25/tent/per night;
– Accommodation in a tent (2-bed accommodation) with full board meal in BC and C1 – $55/per person;
– Breakfast in BC and C1 (in C1- early breakfast is possible from 3-00 to 4-00 in the morning) – $15/ per person;
– Lunch in BC and C1 – $15/ per person;
– Dinner in BC and C1 – $15/ per person;
– Laundry service (washing machine) – $5/per kg & not provided in C1;
– Internet (WI FI) – free in BC & $5/hour in C1;

– High altitude food – $120/ per set
– Overnight in already installed high altitude tent – 60/ tent / per night

High-altitude guide services
– 1 guide for 1 person – $1400
– 1 guide for 2 persons – $1600 (800/ per person)
– 1 guide for 3 persons – $1800 (600/ per person)
– Guide for climbing the peak Yuhina (1 day) – $60

Prices for porters service are not included in the package: 
BC – C1 (4200 m) – 3 USD/kg
C1 – C2 (5300 m) – 6 USD/kg
C2 – C3 (6100 m) – 8 USD/kg
C1 – C3 (6100 m) – 14 USD/kg

* The price is same for carrying up and carrying down.

Rental of equipment

– Gas stove Kovea – $25
– Cookset Kovea – $25
– Static rope (25-40m) -$30
– High-altitude tent RED FOX Explorer (2 – bed) – $80
– Ice axe – $25
– Crampons – $40
– Avalanche shovel – $10
– Sleeping bag – $70
– Sleeping pad – $10
– Harness – $20
– Carbines (2 pc.) – $10
– Jumar – $15
– Helmet – $15
– Telescopic Sticks – $20

Additional services in Bishkek and Osh

– Flight ticket: Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek: (according to the tariffs of airlines) – $50-$150 (two ways)
– Accommodation in a hotel 3 * in Bishkek – Sgl – $60/room; Twin – $70/room
– Accommodation in a hotel 3 * in Osh – Sgl – $50/room; Twin – $60/room
– Meals on the road Osh-BС-Osh – $10/per person

Transfers services

– Group transfer Osh – BC or BC-Osh one way (according to schedule) – $30/ per person
– Transfer airport – hotel or hotel-airport one way – $10/ per person

– Individual transfer Osh – BC or BC-Osh one way – minibus “Mercedes Sprinter” (max 10 people) – $250; minivan / jeep (max   4 people) – $200

List of required equipment:
1. Backpack – 85 liters
2. Sleeping bag -1
3. Sleeping pad – 1
4. Harness – 1
5. Carbines  – 4
6. Jumar – 1
7. Crampons– 1
8. Repshnur (6-7 mm) – 5 m
9. Ice axe – 1
10. Sun glasses – 1 or 2
11. Torch (headlamp) -1 + set of spare batteries
12. Ice screw -2
13. Folding knife – 1
14. Down jacket/parka -1
15. Gortex: pants, jacket – 1 suit
16. Polartec: jacket 200 -1; pants – 1   17. Thermal underwear – 1 suit
18. Polartec 100 – 1 suit (jacket, pants)
19. Polartec gloves -1
20. Overmitts – 1.+ windproof -1
21. Warm hat -1
22. Balaclava -1
23. Warm socks -2 pairs
24. Socks
25. Gamashi
26. Sun protection crèam
27. Figure-8 descender – 1
28. Telescopic Sticks (poles). – 1
29. Avalanche shovel –1
30. High altitude boots – 1
31. Trekking boots -1

Insurance policy

ATTENTION! To participation in Razdelnaya Peak expedition the purchase of an insurance policy is OBLIGATORY!

Below you can check the list of our requirements to the insurance policy.
1) GLOBAL VOYAGER CAN NOT INTERVENE as an insurance company assistant . Our company does not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be borne by the client involved.
2) The sum of the policy must cover not less than USD 30000,00
3) In the field “occupation” (or “sports practice”) “Mountaineering” must be notified
4) As Country of stay – Kyrgyzstan
5) The effective dates of the insurance policy must be included and coincide with the dates of Stay in Kyrgyzstan
6) The insurance policy must cover at least “first aid” and “transportation of the injured” by helicopter if necessary. The amount of coverage for the “transportation of the injured” must be at least $ 10000,00 (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy)

Attention. Responsibility for the reliability of the insurance company and for the accordance of insurance policy to our demands holds by the owner of insurance.

Climbing Lenin peak + Khan Tengri in one summer. Guided expedition offer

Lenin Peak & Khan-Tengry in one summer 2018. Guided expedition and fixed dates

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational ConsortiumAbout Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

If you feel that mountain peaks, up to 7000 m tall, are of your abilities, then you are ready to make a step on a track of “the Snow leopard». The reality is that the “Snow Leopard” summits: Lenin peak and Khan Tengri, are still remain the most accessible, in material sense, peaks that are up to 7000 m tall in the World.

We have fixed dates for the guided expedition to two peaks Lenin and Khan-Tengri: 15 July to 24 August. 

The cost of guided full board expedition to two peaks Lenin and Khan-Tengri in 2018: 5050 USD/person.

15 July to 24 August

15.07.18
– arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
16.07.18    – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
17.07.18-02.08.18    – acclimatization and ascending program.
03.08.18    – transfer to Osh.
04.08.18    – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.

Cost of the guided expedition Bishkek – Bishkek in 2018:  2050 USD per person.
Cost of the guided expedition Osh – Osh in 2018:  1870 USD per person.

05.08.18    Transfer Bishkek – Karkara BC. Accommodation in double tents. Overnight.
06.08.18
Helicopter flight Karkara BC – South Inylchek BC (4000 m asl)
07.08-21.08.18
Acclimatization and ascending program
22.08.18
Helicopter flight South Inylchek BC – Karkara BC. Transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in the hotel.
23.08.18    Free day in Bishkek.
24.08.18    Transfer to the airport. Departure from Bishkek.

The cost of the program in 2018: 3000 USD / pax.

Source >>>

Climbing Lenin peak + Khan Tengri in same summer

Lenin Peak & Khan-Tengry in one summer 2018. Expedition 36 days

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational ConsortiumAbout Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram; +99897 7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

In Kyrgyzstan there are three seven-odd thousand metres high (“seventhousander”) of five in former Soviet Union, now CIS. One of them is – Lenin peak (7134 m). It is the most affordable of seventhousanders for ascent. Khan-Tengri peak indescribable beautiful. For the high altitude climbers, this peak is one of the few in the world, on top of which everyone wants to visit.

If you feel that mountain peaks, up to 7000 m tall, are of your abilities, then you are ready to make a step on a track of “the Snow leopard». The reality is that the “Snow Leopard” summits: Lenin peak and Khan Tengri, are still remain the most accessible, in material sense, peaks that are up to 7000 m tall in the World. We offer you a program for your attempt Lenin Peak & Khan-Tengry in one summer 2018.

The program of the expedition “Bishkek-Bishkek”:
Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek. accommodation in hotel.
Day 2. Flight to Osh. Transfer to base camp “Achyk-Tash”.
Day 3. Acclimatization ascent of “Petrovskogo” peak. Descent to the base camp. Preparation day for climb to Camp 1.
Day 4. Climb to the Camp 1 (4400 m).
Day 5. Acclimatization ascent of “Domashniy” peak (4700m). Descent to the Camp 1. Preparation day for climb to the Camp 2.
Day 6. Climb to the Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 7. Climb to the Camp 3 (6200m).
Day 8. Descent to the camp 1 (4400m).
Day 9. Descent to the base camp (3600 м).
Day 10. Rest day.
Day 11. Preparation day.
Day 12. Climb to the Camp 1 (4400m).
Day 13. Climb to the Camp 2 (5300 m).
Day 14. Climb to the Camp 3 (6200 m).
Day 15. Ascent of the Lenin peak summit (7134 m) and descent to the Camp 3.
Day 16. Descent to the camp 1 (4400m).
Day 17. Descent to the base camp (3600 m).
Day 18. Descent to the base camp.
Day 19. Rest day.
Day 20. Transfer to Osh.
Day 21. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 22. Free day in Bishkek.
Day 23. Transfer Bishkek – Karkara (460 km), accommodation at Karkara Base Camp.
Day 24. Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 25. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 26. Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 27. Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 28. Camp 3. 5800m.
Day 29. Ascend to summit 7010m and descend to Camp 3.
Day 30. Descend to BC.
Day 31. Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 32. Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 33. Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 34. Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel.
Day 35. Free day in Bishkek.
Day 36. Transfer to Airport.

Cost of the program full package:
Bishkek – Bishkek program full package: 2700 USD/person

More info >>>

Source >>>

Ala Archa Mountaineering

Supplier: tel. +99897 7009846; WhatsApp E-mail: your.climberca@ya.ru
More info in Russian

The Ala Archa National Park is an alpine national park in the Tian Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan, established in 1976 and located approximately 40 km south of the capital city of Bishkek. The park, which includes the gorge of the Ala-Archa River and the mountains surrounding it, is a popular destination point for weekend picnicers, hikers, horse trekkers, skiers as well as mountain climbers looking for challenging ice, rock and mixed routes. The park is open year round, although the most popular season is late summer and early fall. Every May 1st, the Alpinada festival sees hundreds of people camp out in the valley and climb Peak Komsomolets.

In Kyrgyz, the archa, which gives the park its name, is a bright or many-colored juniper which the Kyrgyz people have traditionally held in special esteem, using smoke from its burning wood to chase away evil spirits. However, the archa is not supposed to be planted near the home, because it is believed gradually to sap the energy from human beings living close-by.

The park covers about 200 square kilometers, and its altitude ranges from about 1,500 meters at the entrance to a maximum of 4,895 meters at Peak Semenova Tian-Shanski, the highest peak in the Kyrgyz Ala-tau range of the Tian Shan. There are more than 20 small and large glaciers and some 50 mountain peaks within the park. Two smaller rivers, the Adygene and the Ak-Sai, originate from these glaciers’ melting waters. The Adygene gorge is a beautifully wooded valley, with waterfalls, springs and abundant trout. A small reservoir on the Kargay-Bulak river was built to study the Amu Darya trout. Other wildlife includes the very rare snow leopard (in Kyrgyz: “ilbirs”) on the alpine meadows and snowfields above 2,500 m elevation, wild goats, roe deer and marmots.

There is a nominal fee for entering the park. Past the gate the road continues 12 km to a small collection of buildings, including one newly renovated lodge. At the end of the road, up a trail to the left (East), lies the Ak-Sai Glacier. The region’s most famous peaks rise from the Ak-Sai glacier, including Korona (4860m) and Free Korea (4740m). To the west of Ala Archa Valley is a trail to the Adygene valley where a climbers’ cemetery is located. A third main trail continues down the center of the Ala-Archa valley for 10 km to an old, now abandoned, ski area and numerous other 4000m peaks.

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ala_Archa_National_Park

Optional Itinerary
– 1 Day Hiking to “Light House” hut
– 2 Day Ice climbing and preparation for the route.
– 3 Day Climbing the route
– 4 Day Back to Bishkek

Note: If you choose more routes we include day of rest before the climbing and day of climbing the route.

In Ala-Archa we offer following routes:
Svobodnaya (Free) (6510 m) peak. North face
Korona (Crown) (4810 m) group. North face
Korona (Crown) (4810 m) group. South face
Korona (Crown) (4810 m) group from West side
1 st tower of Korona (Crown) – detailed

Cost Includes:
– Transport
– Accommodation
– Food
– Porters assistance
– Guide’s salary

Archa Mountaineering Archa Mountaineering Archa Mountaineering Archa Mountaineering Archa Mountaineering

“Mountaineering school” in Ala-Archa National Park

Open climb (7-days program)

Day 1- Transfer to Ala-Archa gorge, trek to Ak-Sai canyon, accommodation in “Light House”. Lecture: Modern equipment and its applying. Knots.
Day 2- Rock training: Types of belay; climbing with top type of belay. Lecture: Dangers in mountains. Weather.
Day 3- Ice training: Moving along the snow and ice relief using crampons. Moving along the close glacier in tied. Organization of belay on the snow and ice relief. Climbing and descending on the ice slope in tied. Rescue from the crevices.
Day 4- Ascent (F).
Day 5- Rock training: Methods of belay; station organizes; multi pitches; collective belay.
Day 6- Ascent (PD).
Day 7- Trek down to alpincamp, transfer to Bishkek.

The cost of a program is 970 USD per person.

The price includes:
• transportation Bishkek – Ala-Archa – Bishkek;
• the organization of mountain ascents (rescue squad, mountain instructor);
• forming certificate;
• accommodation in “Light House” hut (6 nights);
• full board (3 times per day; in the days of climbing or afternoon lessons given a lunch-box);
• enter fee;
• group equipment: rope, rock and ice pitons (all equipment on the entry level).
• radio communications during the climbing;
• first aid kit and first aid.

The price does not include:

• International flight to Bishkek and back;
• Food & accommodation in Bishkek
• Personal climbing equipment

Equipment:
Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; harness; helmet; carabine with lock – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; cordelette – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 0,5 liter; lantern.

Optional two-days programs “Open climb”

Option 1.
Equipment: Backpack 30 liters; safety system; helmet; shoes for climbing; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; belay; descender; auxiliary rope – 5 meters.
Day 1: Chunkurchak canyon.
Lecture: Modern equipment and its applying. Knots.
Rock training: Types of belay; climbing with top type of belay.
Day 2: Chunkurchak canyon.
Rock training: Methods of belay; station organizes; multi pitches; collective belay.

Option 2.
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1: Climbing to “Light House”.
Lecture: Modern ice equipment and it’s applying.
Day 2: Ice training: Moving along the snow and ice relief using crampons. Moving along the close glacier in tied. Organization of belay on the snow and ice relief. Climbing and descending on the ice slope in tied. Rescue from the crack.

Option 3.
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”.
Lecture: Dangers in mountains. Weather.
Day 2. Ascension (AD).

Advance Climb (7-days program)

Day 1 – Trek to “Light House”. Lecture: planning of climbing. Radio traffic.
Day 2 – Rock climbing: Interaction ligaments on the rocky relief. The use of double rope.
Day 3 – Ascension (PD).
Day 4 – Lecture: Moving of injured person on the difficult relief.
Day 5 – Ascension (AD-)
Day 6 – Ascension (Pd+)
Day 7 – Trek down to alpincamp, transfer to Bishkek.

The cost of a program is 970 USD per person.

The price includes:

• transport Bishkek – Ala-Archa – Bishkek;
• the organization of mountain ascents (rescue squad, mountain instructor);advance2
• forming certificate;
• accommodation in “Light House” hut (6 nights);
• full board (3 times per day; in the days of climbing or afternoon lessons given a lunch-box);
• enter fee;
• group equipment: rope, rock and ice pitons (all equipment on the entry level).
• radio communications during the climbing;
• first aid kit and first aid.

The price does not include:

• International flight to Bishkek and back;
• Food & accommodation in Bishkek
• Personal climbing equipment

Equipment:

Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; harness; helmet; carabine with lock – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; cordelette – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 0,5 liter; lantern.

Optional two-days programs “Advance climb”

Otion 1.
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”. Lecture: Rescue work in the mountains.
Day 2. Ascent (PD).

Option 2.
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”.Lecture: Transportation affected by complex topography by the small group.
Day 2. Ascent (AD-).

Option 3.
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”.Lecture: Ice training: The interaction of ligaments. Salvation of the cracks.
Day 2. Ascent (AD).

Leader Climb (7-days program)

Day 1 – Trek to “Light House”. Lecture: Rescue work in the mountains.Leader
Day 2 – Lecture: Transport the victim complex terrain forces a small group.
Day 3 – Ascension Ratseka Peak (3900m). D
Day 4 – Lecture: Interaction ligaments. Salvation from cracks.
Day 5 – Ascension to the Korona Peak (4810 m.) D
Day 6 – Ascension to the Ratseka Peak(3900m). D
Day 7 – Trek down to alpincamp, transfer to Bishkek.

Equipment:
Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; harness; helmet; carabine with lock – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; cordelette – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 0,5 liter; lantern

Optional two-days programs “Leader climb”

Option 1.leader1
Equipment: Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1.
Lecture: Rescue work in the mountains.
Day 2. Ascension to the Ratseka Peak(3900m.) D.

Option 2.
Equipment: Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”.
Lecture: Transportation affected by complex topography by the small group.
Day 2. Ascension to the Korona Peak (4810m.) D.

Option 3.
Equipment: Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”.
Lecture: Ice class: The interaction of ligaments. Salvation of the cracks.
Day 2. Ascension to the Izyskatel Peak (3900 m.) D.

 

Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m)

This information in Russian

Guided Khan-Tengri Peak expedition – Special offer & fixed dates 2016

Acclimatization trek from «At-Jailoo» 2500m to BC «South Inylchek» 4100m + mountaineering program by the price: 2800 USD/person

Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 3rd of July and 30th of August in 2016.

The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as ‘The Mountains of Heaven’.
Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed – all by Soviet teams.

We offer a classical route – from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 or 4 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.

Route Description

The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward ‘scrambling’ for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches.
There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful.
From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40o, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m.

Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.
Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.

Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.

The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.

Khan Tengri routes

Basic program – 21 days
Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to hotel, accommodation in a hotel.
Day 2 Drive Bishkek – Karkara (460 km), accommodation at Karkara Base Camp.
Day 3 Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 4 Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 5 Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 6 Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 7 Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 8 Camp 3. 5900m.
Day 9 Descend to BC
Day 10 Day of rest and preparation.
Day 11 Day of rest and preparation.
Day 12 Camp 1.
Day 13 Camp 3.
Day 14 Camp 4. 6400m.
Day 15 Ascend to summit 7010m and descend to Camp 3.
Day 16 Descend to BC
Day 17 Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 18 Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 19 Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel
Day 20 Free day in Bishkek.
Day 21 Transfer to Airport

Schedule of helicopter flights in 2016:

July 3, 8, 10, 15, 17, 22, 24, 27, 29, 31
August 4, 5, 6, 7, 12, 14, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28

Cost of a full package in 2016 is 1850 USD per person.

Full package includes:

  • meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
  • transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel – airport in Bishkek;
  • transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
  • helicopter flight to BC and back;
  • unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
  • accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!);
  • accommodation in double tents with full board at BC “South Inylchek“;
  • free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
  • consultancy service of local guide;
  • consultancy of doctor;
  • registration with local Rescue Party;
  • ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
  • usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
  • rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
  • usage of fixed ropes on the route;
  • change of air-flight and railway tickets;
  • frontier zone permit;
  • official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

Cost of a small package in 2016 is 1120 USD per person.

Small package includes:

  • helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 3 EURO/kg);
  • free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
  • consultancy service of local guide;
  • consultancy of doctor;
  • registration with local Rescue Party;
  • ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
  • usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
  • rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
  • usage of fixed ropes on the route;
  • change of air-flight and railway tickets;
  • frontier zone permit;
  • official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

The cost for both packages does not include:

  • The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
  • International flight;
  • All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
  • Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
  • All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
  • The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;
  • The rent of mountaineering equipment;

Porter & guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment:

Guide services:
1 person – 1600 USD
2 person – 900 USD per person
3 person – 700 USD per person

Porter services:
BC – Camp 1 – 4 Euro/per kg
Camp 1 – Camp 2 – 8 Euro/per kg
Camp 2 – Camp 3 – 8 Euro/per kg

Note: Cost of porter services is calculated for both ascending and descending. Porters service should be booked before program.

Additional services at Base Camp:

Rent of tents for high camps – 80 USD per program

Gas cartridges

of 230 g (butane/propane) – 9 USD per one cartridge

Installed high-altitude tents

(3 pax in 1 tent!) 70 USD per night

International call

by satellite telephone – 4 USD/min
List of items, which will be of a use:
1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
4) High-altitude food