Ala Archa Mountaineering

Supplier: tel. +99897 7009846; WhatsApp E-mail: your.climberca@ya.ru
More info in Russian

The Ala Archa National Park is an alpine national park in the Tian Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan, established in 1976 and located approximately 40 km south of the capital city of Bishkek. The park, which includes the gorge of the Ala-Archa River and the mountains surrounding it, is a popular destination point for weekend picnicers, hikers, horse trekkers, skiers as well as mountain climbers looking for challenging ice, rock and mixed routes. The park is open year round, although the most popular season is late summer and early fall. Every May 1st, the Alpinada festival sees hundreds of people camp out in the valley and climb Peak Komsomolets.

In Kyrgyz, the archa, which gives the park its name, is a bright or many-colored juniper which the Kyrgyz people have traditionally held in special esteem, using smoke from its burning wood to chase away evil spirits. However, the archa is not supposed to be planted near the home, because it is believed gradually to sap the energy from human beings living close-by.

The park covers about 200 square kilometers, and its altitude ranges from about 1,500 meters at the entrance to a maximum of 4,895 meters at Peak Semenova Tian-Shanski, the highest peak in the Kyrgyz Ala-tau range of the Tian Shan. There are more than 20 small and large glaciers and some 50 mountain peaks within the park. Two smaller rivers, the Adygene and the Ak-Sai, originate from these glaciers’ melting waters. The Adygene gorge is a beautifully wooded valley, with waterfalls, springs and abundant trout. A small reservoir on the Kargay-Bulak river was built to study the Amu Darya trout. Other wildlife includes the very rare snow leopard (in Kyrgyz: “ilbirs”) on the alpine meadows and snowfields above 2,500 m elevation, wild goats, roe deer and marmots.

There is a nominal fee for entering the park. Past the gate the road continues 12 km to a small collection of buildings, including one newly renovated lodge. At the end of the road, up a trail to the left (East), lies the Ak-Sai Glacier. The region’s most famous peaks rise from the Ak-Sai glacier, including Korona (4860m) and Free Korea (4740m). To the west of Ala Archa Valley is a trail to the Adygene valley where a climbers’ cemetery is located. A third main trail continues down the center of the Ala-Archa valley for 10 km to an old, now abandoned, ski area and numerous other 4000m peaks.

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ala_Archa_National_Park

Optional Itinerary
– 1 Day Hiking to “Light House” hut
– 2 Day Ice climbing and preparation for the route.
– 3 Day Climbing the route
– 4 Day Back to Bishkek

Note: If you choose more routes we include day of rest before the climbing and day of climbing the route.

In Ala-Archa we offer following routes:
Svobodnaya (Free) (6510 m) peak. North face
Korona (Crown) (4810 m) group. North face
Korona (Crown) (4810 m) group. South face
Korona (Crown) (4810 m) group from West side
1 st tower of Korona (Crown) – detailed

Cost Includes:
– Transport
– Accommodation
– Food
– Porters assistance
– Guide’s salary

Archa Mountaineering Archa Mountaineering Archa Mountaineering Archa Mountaineering Archa Mountaineering

“Mountaineering school” in Ala-Archa National Park

Open climb (7-days program)

Day 1- Transfer to Ala-Archa gorge, trek to Ak-Sai canyon, accommodation in “Light House”. Lecture: Modern equipment and its applying. Knots.
Day 2- Rock training: Types of belay; climbing with top type of belay. Lecture: Dangers in mountains. Weather.
Day 3- Ice training: Moving along the snow and ice relief using crampons. Moving along the close glacier in tied. Organization of belay on the snow and ice relief. Climbing and descending on the ice slope in tied. Rescue from the crevices.
Day 4- Ascent (F).
Day 5- Rock training: Methods of belay; station organizes; multi pitches; collective belay.
Day 6- Ascent (PD).
Day 7- Trek down to alpincamp, transfer to Bishkek.

The cost of a program is 970 USD per person.

The price includes:
• transportation Bishkek – Ala-Archa – Bishkek;
• the organization of mountain ascents (rescue squad, mountain instructor);
• forming certificate;
• accommodation in “Light House” hut (6 nights);
• full board (3 times per day; in the days of climbing or afternoon lessons given a lunch-box);
• enter fee;
• group equipment: rope, rock and ice pitons (all equipment on the entry level).
• radio communications during the climbing;
• first aid kit and first aid.

The price does not include:

• International flight to Bishkek and back;
• Food & accommodation in Bishkek
• Personal climbing equipment

Equipment:
Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; harness; helmet; carabine with lock – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; cordelette – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 0,5 liter; lantern.

Optional two-days programs “Open climb”

Option 1.
Equipment: Backpack 30 liters; safety system; helmet; shoes for climbing; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; belay; descender; auxiliary rope – 5 meters.
Day 1: Chunkurchak canyon.
Lecture: Modern equipment and its applying. Knots.
Rock training: Types of belay; climbing with top type of belay.
Day 2: Chunkurchak canyon.
Rock training: Methods of belay; station organizes; multi pitches; collective belay.

Option 2.
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1: Climbing to “Light House”.
Lecture: Modern ice equipment and it’s applying.
Day 2: Ice training: Moving along the snow and ice relief using crampons. Moving along the close glacier in tied. Organization of belay on the snow and ice relief. Climbing and descending on the ice slope in tied. Rescue from the crack.

Option 3.
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”.
Lecture: Dangers in mountains. Weather.
Day 2. Ascension (AD).

Advance Climb (7-days program)

Day 1 – Trek to “Light House”. Lecture: planning of climbing. Radio traffic.
Day 2 – Rock climbing: Interaction ligaments on the rocky relief. The use of double rope.
Day 3 – Ascension (PD).
Day 4 – Lecture: Moving of injured person on the difficult relief.
Day 5 – Ascension (AD-)
Day 6 – Ascension (Pd+)
Day 7 – Trek down to alpincamp, transfer to Bishkek.

The cost of a program is 970 USD per person.

The price includes:

• transport Bishkek – Ala-Archa – Bishkek;
• the organization of mountain ascents (rescue squad, mountain instructor);advance2
• forming certificate;
• accommodation in “Light House” hut (6 nights);
• full board (3 times per day; in the days of climbing or afternoon lessons given a lunch-box);
• enter fee;
• group equipment: rope, rock and ice pitons (all equipment on the entry level).
• radio communications during the climbing;
• first aid kit and first aid.

The price does not include:

• International flight to Bishkek and back;
• Food & accommodation in Bishkek
• Personal climbing equipment

Equipment:

Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; harness; helmet; carabine with lock – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; cordelette – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 0,5 liter; lantern.

Optional two-days programs “Advance climb”

Otion 1.
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”. Lecture: Rescue work in the mountains.
Day 2. Ascent (PD).

Option 2.
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”.Lecture: Transportation affected by complex topography by the small group.
Day 2. Ascent (AD-).

Option 3.
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”.Lecture: Ice training: The interaction of ligaments. Salvation of the cracks.
Day 2. Ascent (AD).

Leader Climb (7-days program)

Day 1 – Trek to “Light House”. Lecture: Rescue work in the mountains.Leader
Day 2 – Lecture: Transport the victim complex terrain forces a small group.
Day 3 – Ascension Ratseka Peak (3900m). D
Day 4 – Lecture: Interaction ligaments. Salvation from cracks.
Day 5 – Ascension to the Korona Peak (4810 m.) D
Day 6 – Ascension to the Ratseka Peak(3900m). D
Day 7 – Trek down to alpincamp, transfer to Bishkek.

Equipment:
Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; harness; helmet; carabine with lock – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; cordelette – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 0,5 liter; lantern

Optional two-days programs “Leader climb”

Option 1.leader1
Equipment: Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1.
Lecture: Rescue work in the mountains.
Day 2. Ascension to the Ratseka Peak(3900m.) D.

Option 2.
Equipment: Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”.
Lecture: Transportation affected by complex topography by the small group.
Day 2. Ascension to the Korona Peak (4810m.) D.

Option 3.
Equipment: Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”.
Lecture: Ice class: The interaction of ligaments. Salvation of the cracks.
Day 2. Ascension to the Izyskatel Peak (3900 m.) D.

 

Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m)

This information in Russian

Guided Khan-Tengri Peak expedition – Special offer & fixed dates 2016

Acclimatization trek from «At-Jailoo» 2500m to BC «South Inylchek» 4100m + mountaineering program by the price: 2800 USD/person

Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 3rd of July and 30th of August in 2016.

The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as ‘The Mountains of Heaven’.
Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed – all by Soviet teams.

We offer a classical route – from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 or 4 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.

Route Description

The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward ‘scrambling’ for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches.
There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful.
From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40o, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m.

Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.
Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.

Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.

The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.

Khan Tengri routes

Basic program – 21 days
Day 1 Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to hotel, accommodation in a hotel.
Day 2 Drive Bishkek – Karkara (460 km), accommodation at Karkara Base Camp.
Day 3 Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 4 Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 5 Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 6 Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 7 Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 8 Camp 3. 5900m.
Day 9 Descend to BC
Day 10 Day of rest and preparation.
Day 11 Day of rest and preparation.
Day 12 Camp 1.
Day 13 Camp 3.
Day 14 Camp 4. 6400m.
Day 15 Ascend to summit 7010m and descend to Camp 3.
Day 16 Descend to BC
Day 17 Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 18 Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 19 Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel
Day 20 Free day in Bishkek.
Day 21 Transfer to Airport

Schedule of helicopter flights in 2016:

July 3, 8, 10, 15, 17, 22, 24, 27, 29, 31
August 4, 5, 6, 7, 12, 14, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28

Cost of a full package in 2016 is 1850 USD per person.

Full package includes:

  • meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
  • transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel – airport in Bishkek;
  • transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
  • helicopter flight to BC and back;
  • unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
  • accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!);
  • accommodation in double tents with full board at BC “South Inylchek“;
  • free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
  • consultancy service of local guide;
  • consultancy of doctor;
  • registration with local Rescue Party;
  • ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
  • usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
  • rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
  • usage of fixed ropes on the route;
  • change of air-flight and railway tickets;
  • frontier zone permit;
  • official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

Cost of a small package in 2016 is 1120 USD per person.

Small package includes:

  • helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 3 EURO/kg);
  • free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
  • consultancy service of local guide;
  • consultancy of doctor;
  • registration with local Rescue Party;
  • ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
  • usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
  • rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
  • usage of fixed ropes on the route;
  • change of air-flight and railway tickets;
  • frontier zone permit;
  • official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

The cost for both packages does not include:

  • The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
  • International flight;
  • All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
  • Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
  • All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
  • The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;
  • The rent of mountaineering equipment;

Porter & guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment:

Guide services:
1 person – 1600 USD
2 person – 900 USD per person
3 person – 700 USD per person

Porter services:
BC – Camp 1 – 4 Euro/per kg
Camp 1 – Camp 2 – 8 Euro/per kg
Camp 2 – Camp 3 – 8 Euro/per kg

Note: Cost of porter services is calculated for both ascending and descending. Porters service should be booked before program.

Additional services at Base Camp:

Rent of tents for high camps – 80 USD per program

Gas cartridges

of 230 g (butane/propane) – 9 USD per one cartridge

Installed high-altitude tents

(3 pax in 1 tent!) 70 USD per night

International call

by satellite telephone – 4 USD/min
List of items, which will be of a use:
1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
4) High-altitude food

Asian Patagonia of Pamiro-Alay. Experienced Technical Climbing

BC In Karavshin 2016

The Pamir Alai mountain range is a paradise for alpinists. An entire constellation of grandiose granite peaks juts from a narrow 20-kilometer strip of the Turkestan ridge. Every summer, outstanding mountain climbers gather there. On the area’s menu, there are rock formations for every taste. The north face Ak-Su Peak is delicacy for the gourmet: over 1500 meters of irreproachable granite. To feel the grandeur and power of this mountain, one needs to come to its base – or, even better, experience it on any of the 13 established routes. Until the winter season of 1998-’99, however, no one had succeeded in going to the top of Ak-Su in winter.

ClimberCA has every reason to say that “Asian Patagonia” (Kyrgyz Part of Turkestan Ridge of Pamir Alai) is the familiar area for us.

Thank you for your interest and, please, find related items adjoined for your consideration – Map and routes of the region of Pamir Alay, called “Asian Patagonia“.
MAP of Aksu, Asan-Usen, Sabakh regions

Aksu region

 

ClimberCA International Consortium
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ru.ClimberCA.com
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
pagetour@ya.ru
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tel. +99898 3039846

Speed climbing to Lenin peak

Lenin Peak is the highest summit of Zailiysky Range. Its height is 7134 meters above sea level. There are 3 seven thousand meters peaks on the territory of Kyrgyzstan, and Lenin Peak is the most accessible and popular amongst the mountain climbers of the world.

As a rule, Lenin Peak is a starting summit for “Snow Leopard” program. Lenin Peak is a success with experienced climbers and down hill skiers. The mount itinerary isn’t of particular technical difficulty. And, the descent from the seven thousand meters peak makes an indelible impression even upon the supporter of the most extreme sports. Weather conditions are propitious enough in the region of Lenin Peak. However, you shouldn’t forget that Lenin Peak is seven thousand meters summit that is why a principal difficulty of the expedition to the Lenin Peak is an altitude.

Low temperatures, the periods of foul weather, as well as avalanches must be taken into account. The “Achik Tash” Base Camp, which is the starting point for the expedition to Lenin Peak, is situated on a verdant glade at an altitude of 3000 m. The ABC (1-st camp) is located on a moraine at an altitude of 4400 m. The both camps offer a comfortable accommodation and give a perfect possibility to have a good rest during the expedition.

In 1928, 3 German alpinists (K. Win, E. Allvein, E. Schneider) were the first who climber to Kaufmann Peak (it was the first name of the summit that was given by the Russian explorer A. P. Fedchenko). The same year Kaufmann Peak was given a new name – Lenin Peak. In the times of Soviet Union, the most part of the climbers gained their first experience trying to conquer Lenin Peak. At the present time, the alpinists, from all over the world, try to climb the Peak of Lenin.

There are some special requirements to those willing to participate in the “Speed climbing to Lenin peak”. You should know theoretically and practically how to move on snow- and ice-covered surfaces. The time of each participant is defined from the start till the finish (at the beginning of the plateau). Those participants who have reached the finish without any assistance and came back to the starting point not later than 3 p.m. of the next day – are considered to be the participants who have completed the competition. If the participant requires any help or comes to the starting point later than 3 p.m. of the next day his results are not considered in the competition. There are some control points on the route (the participants are informed about them beforehand). If the participant exceeds the control time he is recommended to go down back to the starting point. It is strictly prohibited to use any kind of transport, ski or any help from anybody.

Every participant should be aware of the risk they undertake when climbing Lenin Peak.
The participants take whole responsibility for their health and security. We can provide the necessary medical help in a case of incident or an accident. The organizers of the event check the route and will lay the ropes where necessary.

If a participant starts the Speed climbing to Lenin peak, it means he is fit and healthy enough and has the necessary basic skills in alpinism for covering this ascent.

The participants have to take into consideration the real weather and the route conditions of the race.
The equipment used by the participant should meet the requirements of the safety and the rules of the competition.

Program

Program Bishkek-Bishkek:

Day 19.07. Arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the hotel. Overnight in a hotel;
Day 20.07. Flight to Osh. Transfer Osh – Base Camp “Achik Tash”;
Day 21.07 – 26.07. Acclimatization. Preparation for the run up, registration;
Day 27.07. Qualification run up;
Day 28.07. Preparation for the run up;
Day 29.07. Run up;
Day 30.07. Reserve day;
Day 31.07. Descent to the Base Camp;
Day 01.08. Transfer to Osh
Day 02.08. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodaion in hotel


Climb Lenin Peak


Price:
1 – Program Bishkek – Bishkek full package – 710 Euro/Person

The price of the full package Bishkek – Base Camp – Bishkek includes:
The border permit for visiting the border zone and registration in OVIR (if needed);
Transfer airport – hotel – airport in Osh and in Bishkek;
Air tickets Bishkek- Osh – Bishkek (luggage allowance – 15 kg free of charge; more than 15 kg is to be paid extra – 0,5 Euro/kg);
All transfers as per program;
Accommodation in Bishkek and in Osh (not more than 4 nights!) in a hotel with breakfast;
Lunch or lunch box on the way from Osh to the Base Camp and from the Base Camp to Osh;
Walkie-talkie rent;
Registration in the rescue team;
Ecological fee.

2 – Program Osh-Osh full package – 585 Euro/Person

The price of the full package Osh – Base Camp – Osh includes:
The border permit for visiting the border zone and registration in OVIR (if needed);
Transfer airport – hotel – airport in Osh;
Trabsfer Osh-Base Camp “Achik Tash” – Osh;
Accommodation (not more than 2 nights) with breakfast in a hotel in Osh;
Lunch or lunch box on the way from Osh to the Base Camp and from the Base Camp to Osh;
Walkie-talkie rent;
Registration in the rescue team;
Ecological fee.

Service in the Base Camp and Camp 1 included into the price of the both packages:

Services in the Base Camp “Ahik Tash” at 3600m:

– Accommodation in tents (2 people in a tent)*. Each tent has – electricity, wooden platforms with mattresses (The tent should be free during the time when you are on the route, your luggage can be kept in the storage meanwhile).
– Meals – full board (breakfast, lunch, dinner)*
– Guide-consultant’s service
– Dining-tent, WC, storage, baths and shower
– Medical aid in the base camp (professional doctor)
– Electricity 220V, permanent source of electricity!

Services in Camp 1 at 4400m::

– Accommodation in tents (2 people in a tent)*. Each tent has – electricity, wooden platforms with mattresses (The tent should be free during the time when you are on the route, your luggage can be kept in the storage meanwhile).
– Meals – full board (breakfast, lunch, dinner)*
– Guide-consultant’s service
– Dining-tent, WC, storage,
– Medical kit
– Electricity 220V, 50HZ
– If necessary it is possible to use the set tents at 5300m and 6200m during the run up.

* For those who use the full package accommodation and food in the Base Camp and in Camp 1 is provided not more than 10 days.

Price of one additional day in the Base Camp or in Camp1 (accommodation and meals) +45Euro/Pax.

3 – Small package: 300 Euro/Person

The price includes:
– Transfer Osh – Achik Tash Base Camp – Osh
– Accommodation at the territory of the Base Camp and Camp 1in your own tents, using the infrastructure of the Base Camp and Camp 1*
– Ecological fee.
– Registration in the rescue team;
– Walkie-talkie rent (only for group of 3 People and more)
– The border permit for visiting the border zone and registration in OVIR (if needed);
– Medical doctor-consultant’s service
– If necessary it is possible to use the set tents at 5300m and 6200m during the run up.

* For those who use the full package accommodation and food in the Base Camp and in Camp 1 is provided not more than 10 days.

Price of one additional day in the Base Camp or in Camp1 (accommodation and meals) +45Euro/Pax.

Additional services for the small package

Accommodation in BC 35 Euro/Person. and in Camp 1 – 45 Euro/Person (accommodation – 5 Euro/Pax, breakfast -10 Euro/Pax, lunch – 15 Euro/Pax, dinner – 15 Euro/Pax).

All the packages do not include:
– Kyrgyz visa fee
– International flight
– Meals not mentioned in th program and not included into the package
– Alcohol
– Personal expenses (insurance , payment for extra luggage on the air lanes)
– Mountain guide service
– Climbing equipment rent

Additional services
Gas cartridge 230 gr. (butane/propane) – 6 Euro/cartridge
Internet Access – 20 Euro/hour

http://www.climberca.com/index.php/16-speed-climbing-to-lenin-peak

 

This page in Russian

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Special offer Lenin Peak 2014:

This page in Russian

Basic program: 21 days
Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel
Day 2. Flight to Osh, transfer Osh-Achik-Tash BC.
Day 3. Acclimatization ascent of Petrovskogo peak.
Day 4. Descent to the base camp.
Day 5. Preparation day
Day 6. Climb to the camp N1. 4400 m.
Day 7. Climb to the camp N2. 5300 m.
Day 8. Climb to the camp N3. 6200 m.
Day 9. Descent to the camp N1.
Day 10. Descent to the base camp 3600 m.
Day 11. Rest day.
Day 12. Preparation day.
Day 13. Climb to camp N1.
Day 14. Climb to camp N2.
Day 15. Climb to camp N3.
Day 16. Climb to camp N4. 6400 m.
Day 17. Ascent of the summit 7134 m. and descent to the camp N3.
Day 18. Descent to the camp N1.
Day 19. Descent to the base camp. 3600 m.
Day 20. Transfer to Osh.
Day 21. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in a hotel

Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last minute changes. This period will also include essential rest days taken at Base Camp.

Ibn Sina Lenin Peak routes
Ibn Sina Lenin Peak routes

1662×602. 707 kbb


1) Full package Bishkek-Bishkek + additional services in 2014: 1150 euro/person
2) Full package Osh – Osh + additional services in 2014: 1000 euro/person
Given cost includes:
–    guaranteed installed high altitude tents (3 persons in one tent) on 5300 m, 6200 m
–    boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)
–    meeting/seeing off at the airport
–    all transfers according to the program
–    flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek and back (please note only 15 kg incl. hand luggage are free of charge!; Extra kilo costs about 0,5 EURO)
–    accommodation in hotels with breakfasts (in Osh 2 nights and Bishkek 2 nights; in total 4 nights only!)
–    lunch en route to/from BC
–    rent of walkie-talkie
–    registration with rescue team
–    ecological fee

1)    Full package Bishkek-Bishkek + additional services in 2014: 1300 euro/person
2)    Full package Osh-Osh + additional services in 2014: 1150 euro/person

Given cost includes:
–  guaranteed installed high altitude tents (3 persons in one tent) on 5300 m, 6200 m
–    group equipment: rope (if needed), gas and gas stoves, cooking set.
–    high altitude food
–    boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)
–    meeting/seeing off at the airport
–    all transfers according to the program
–    flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek and back (please note only 15 kg incl. hand luggage are free of charge!; Extra kilo costs about 0,5 EURO)
–    accommodation in hotels with breakfasts (in Osh and Bishkek; in total 4 nights only!)
–    lunch en route to/from BC
–    rent of walkie-talkie
–    registration with rescue team
–    ecological fee

Services included in both packages at our camps:

Services in the base camp “Achik Tash” on 3600m:

Services in the camp 1 on 4400m:

 

Accommodation in double tents. Each tent is equipped with camp bed, pillow, blankets and electricity.

Accommodation in double tents with mattresses and wooden platforms.

 

Meals – full board

Meals – full board

Guide-consultant’s services

Guide-consultant’s services

Dining-tent, WC, storage,  baths and shower

Dining-tent, WC tent, storage tent

Medical aid in the base camp (professional doctor)

Medical kit

Electricity 220V, permanent source of electricity!

Electricity 220V, 50HZ

The cost does not include:

– The cost of Kyrgyz visa
– International flight
– All optional deviations from the main itinerary
– Beverages and meals not included in main menu
– All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.)
– The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending
– The rent of mountaineering equipment for ascending

Prices for guides service for 2014 year:

1 person – 1000 Euro
2 person –  600 Euro
2 person –   450 Euro

Prices for porters service for 2014 year:

BC – C1 (4400 m) – 2 Euro/kg
C1 – C2 (5300 m) – 4 Euro/kg
C2 – C3 (6200 m) – 4 Euro/kg

* The price is same for carrying up and carrying down.

Additional Services:

Rent of tents for high camps – 60 Euro/program
Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 6 Euro/cartridge
International call by satellite telephone – 3 Euro/min.
Internet access – 20 Euro/hour

Transport schedule Osh – BC “Achik Tash” for 2014:

June  20
July 3, 10, 16, 18, 19, 22, 24, 26, 30
August 1, 4, 6, 8, 12, 16, 19, 22, 23, 26

Transport schedule BC “Achik Tash” – Osh for 2014:

June 26
July 2, 9, 15, 17, 18, 21, 23, 25, 28, 31
August 3, 5, 7, 11, 15, 17, 18, 21, 23, 26

List of items, which will be of use:
1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
4) High-altitude foodstuff

http://www.climberca.com/index.php/13-special-offer-lenin-peak-2013

ClimberCA International Consortium
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846

Complete package Khan-Tengri and Pobeda (around 21 days of service)

• meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
• transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel – airport in Bishkek;
• transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
• helicopter flight to BC and back;
• unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
• accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!);
• accommodation in double tents with full board at BC “South Inylchek“;
• free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
• consultancy service of local guide;
• consultancy of doctor;
• registration with local Rescue Party;
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• change of air-flight and railway tickets;
• frontier zone permit;
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

Econoic package Khan-Tengri and Pobeda (around 21 days of service)

• helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 3 EURO/kg);
• free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
• consultancy service of local guide;
• consultancy of doctor;
• registration with local Rescue Party;
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• change of air-flight and railway tickets;
• frontier zone permit;
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

The cost for both packages does not include:

• The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
• International flight;
• All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
• Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
• All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
• The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;
• The rent of mountaineering equipment;

Porter & guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment:

Guide services:
1 person – 1200 Euro
2 person – 700 Euro per person
3 person – 550 Euro per person

Porter services:
BC – Camp 1 – 4 Euro/per kg
Camp 1 – Camp 2 – 8 Euro/per kg
Camp 2 – Camp 3 – 8 Euro/per kg

Note: Cost of porter services is calculated for both ascending and descending. Porters service should be booked before program.

Additional services at Base Camp:
Rent of tents for high camps – 60 Euro per program
Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 6 euro per one cartridge
International call by satellite telephone – 3 euro/min

http://www.climberca.com/index.php/26-pobeda-peak-expedition

ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.ru
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846 – when call, please take into consideration
our time zone – GMT+05:00

Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 6-th of July and 31st of August in 2014.


Khan-Tengri Peak

Schedule of helicopter flights in 2014:

July 6, 13, 17, 20, 24, 27, 29, 31
August 3, 7, 10, 14, 17, 21, 24, 28, 31

More info about this expedition:
http://climberca.com/index.php/17-khan-tengri-peak-7010-m

ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.ru
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846

Special offer for Khan Tengri Peak expedition 2014

Guaranteed departure date for an expedition with an experienced mountaineering guide:

5 August to 26 August


Khan-Tengri Peak

Basic program Bishkek-Bishkek:

05.08.2014 – Arrival to Bishkek. Transfer and accommodation in the hotel.
06.08.2014 – Transfer Bishkek – Karkara BC. Accommodation in double tents. Overnight.
07.08.2014 – Helicopter flight Karkara BC – South Inylchek BC (4000 m asl)
08.08.14-23.08.14 – Acclimatization and ascending program
24.08.2014 – Helicopter flight South Inylchek BC – Karkara BC. Transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in the hotel.
25.08.2014 – Free day in Bishkek.
26.08.2014 – Transfer to the airport. Departure from Bishkek.

Cost of this program in 2014: 2200 Euro/person.

Learn more about this program:

http://climberca.com/index.php/18-special-offer-for-khan-tengri-peak-expedition-2013

ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.ru
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846

Pobeda Peak Expedition 2014

Tour Duration: 21 day(s)

Pobeda Peak Expedition (7.439 m)

Peak Pobeda overranges all the other peaks of the majestic Tien Shan range with more than 400 meters. Together with its broad an complex built it makes for one of the most awesome sights in the mountains. The peak was already scaled in the thirties of the last century by Soviet climbers. But it was not known until the spring of 1943 that they had actually scaled the highest peak of these Northern mountains. In 1943 the Soviet team again succeeded in reaching the summit and this time it’s got its name under which it is still known: Peak Pobeda, meaning “victory peak”.


Pobeda Peak

It is a highly dangerous, exhausting and technical mountain to climb. Sometimes it’s called “ the coldest mountain on earth”. Actually it is one of the northest 7000+ peaks on the globe and most routes up it come from the West and Northwest. All these factors add an extra difficulty to climbing it. A frightening number of, mostly Russian, mountaineers lay down their lives on this ridge. This bad reputation made that not very many parties have visited the mountain during the last 10 year, and less experienced climbers stay away with it.

Route description

The most often climbed route, coming from the Southwest involves many kilometers of a mixed and broken ridge which is all situated above 7000 meter.
Advanced bace camp is located at Zvjozdochka glacier at 4600 m. Then early in the morning we head for camp at 5300m on Dickiy pass. Camp 3 is at snow plateau at 5700 metres where we will either use snow caves or tents. Further camps are then established at 6400m and 6800m, the upper camp being just before the long traverse (about 6 km. at the altitude above 7000m.) to the summit ridge. A final snow cave is normally established at 7100m towards the other end of the long traverse. The summit day is relatively long.

Supplier: tel. +998 98 3039846; E-mail: your.climberca@ya.ru

http://climberca.com/index.php/26-pobeda-peak-expedition

Mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan
Climb Lenin Peak,
Climb Lenin Peak Expedition (7.134 m),
Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition (7010 m),
Pobeda Peak
Expedition (7.439 m)
,
Experienced Climbing in Ala-Archa, Pamiro–Alai, Turkestan Ridge,
Asian Patagonia of Pamiro-Alay. Experienced Technical Climbing, Ibn Sina Lenin Peak routes, Ibn Sina Lenin Peak routes.

http://climberca.com/index.php/27-mountaineering-in-kyrgyzstan


Mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan

— ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.ru
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846