Communism – Korzhenevskaya peaks

Communism – Korzhenevskaya peaks region (map).

Восхождение на пики Коммунизма и Корженевской

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram; +99897 7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Traditionally the central and northwestern parts of the Pamir are considered one region. Two of the three peaks over 7,000 m above sea level in the Pamir are in this area – Mt. Communism (7,495 m) and Mt. Evgenii Korzhenevskoy (7,105m)- and there is also the Fedchenko glacier, the largest in Central Asia (71.2 km long). This region consists of a series of mountain ranges that run in a latitudinal direction and are connected to one another by the Akademia Nauk (Academy of Science) range. There are two areas with base camps. The first is the Moskvina camp, which lies near a little lake on the plateau covered with edelweiss and wormwood that extend up to where the Waltera and Moskvina glaciers converge, at 4,100 m. This camp is the starting point for the climbs up Mt. Communism and Mt. Korzhenevskoy. The second camp is Suloev (or Fortambek), on the plateau of the same name, where the Fortambek glacier points northward, opposite the Tramplinniy (Springboard) glacier. The climate in this region is characteristically quite variable. The mountain climbing season is very short; the best period is from mid-July to August 20.
Central part of Pamir presents two giants for climbing: Communism (7495 m) and Korzhenevskoy (7105 m) peaks, which are standing in front of each other. Both of them has extra class routes and classical ones for easy climbing with pre acclimatization as usual up to Pamirskoe Plateau.

Peak Communism (7495 m).
Mt. Communism is an awe-inspiring rock and ice pyramid with a quadrangular base that has four distinct faces. The eastern one was climbed for the first time by Evgenii Abalakov in 1933 via a difficult route with a very complicated access, along the Bivuachniy (Bivouac) glacier On the western face is the classic route, Burevestnik, which runs along the ridge. The third face plunges down to the south for 2,000 meters on the Beliaeva glacier; it is quite steep characterized by the so called Puso (Paunch) a rock wall from 600 to 800 meters high with an incline of more than 80°. Here are the most difficult of 25 routes up Mt. Communism. The South-Western face was first climbed in 1968 by E. Mislovskiy, who kept to the right of the Puso. The true “Paunch” route was climbed only in 1977 by A. Nepomniashkiy. Later, other routes were opened by K. Valiev and V, Solonnikov. The face looking over the “Springboard” glacier has not been climbed yet. It is considered impossible to conquer because of the extremely dangerous icefall that descends onto the Pamirskoe plateau. The normal route up Mt. Communism, on the northern face, crosses the Pamirskoe plateau. This is one of the highest and largest plateaus in the world: about three km wide and twelve km long from west to east. The lowest point is at 4,700 meters altitude, the highest 6,300 m. At 6,000 m there is a little rocky peak called Parachutistov (Parachuters) in honour of the tragic expedition of Soviet military parachuters that was organized in 1967 for training and sporting purposes; many parachuters were killed when the strong wind caused them to crash against the rock, while the others managed to save their lives by opening their parachutes after they had passed over the wind belt.


The Barodkin Route up Mt. Communism (7,495 m, 5A) – from North side. Classical routes

The normal route up Mt. Communism begins from the Waltera glacier on to the northern face of the massif. It was opened in 1968 by J. Barodkin along the ridge that bears his name. On a technical level it is not too difficult; it can be compared to the routes up Lenin Peak. Yet it is rated 5 A because of the high altitude. After acclimatization that includes a climb to the snow-covered Pamirskoe plateau and back, the route to the top takes about a week. From the Moskvina base camp climbers go up towards the south along the Waltera glacier, which they cross in a westerly direction after about a one-hour walk. Continue climb along the steep and rubbly ridge up to camp I, at 5,300 m, above the summit of the large rock triangle. In most cases this triangle is climbed over to the left, along the inclined ledge and the snow gully. This is the easiest way, but it is risky because it goes under the glacier icefall. From camp I the itinerary follows the rock ridge, which is often encrusted with ice, up to two snow domes called Grudi (Breasts, 6,200 m). In high season there are clear tracks of this part of the route, and in the more complicated sections a permanent rope is set up. From here you have a level walk to camp 2 (6,200 m), which is in the Pamirskoe plateau. The third day you tackle the long crossing of the plateau, at the end of which you will find camp 3 by going up a snow ridge (6,400 m). The ascent continues along the ridge, up to the western shoulder of the summit, called Dushanbe (Great Barrier) Peak (6,956 m). Camp 4 is in a snow-covered col at 6,900 m. The route continues to the left over the snow under the summit rocks, up to the col. This is the most difficult part of the climb, because of the steepness and altitude. You reach the top by climbing up the final 300 meters along the northern ridge. You can descend to camp 4, or even camp 3, on the same day. The record for the fastest climb up Mt. Communism was set in 1990 by V. Obikhod and E. Klinezkiy, who took about 20 hours, without bivouacking, to get over the 3,300 meters difference in height, reach the summit and then go back to the base camp. The climber from Yugoslavia A. Stremeiy, who opened the Yugoslavs’ Route up Mt. Everest, holds another record: in 1983 he skied down Mt. Communism along the Barodkin route.

The Route up Mt. Korzhenevskoy (7,105 m, 5A)

(In the foto to the right) peak Korjenevskoy, seen from Pamirskoe plateau.
Originally called Kul-Santalak, the third peak in the Pamirs over 7,000 meters high was “discovered” in 1910 by a Russian geographer, N. Korzhenevskiy, who wanted to name it after his wife Evgenia. It was climbed for the first time in 1953 by A, Agarov, who went up the northern side. The peak has many complicated routes on its western face. The route along the southern crest (opened by V. Tsetkin in 1966) is not too difficult and can easily be climbed in three or four days after a suitable acclimatization period. From the Moskvina base camp, follow the path along the torrent that descends from the glacier on the southern side of the mountain, and then continue to the right and cross the Moskvina glacier. Continue along the rock and debris ridge until the slope becomes less steep; here, at about 3,200 meters, you can set up camp 1. Proceed along the glacier slope that descends on the southern side of the mountain. The glacier is steep, so that rope, crampons, ice axes and ice screws are necessary. Then the incline again becomes less steep and the route approaches the moraine; here, at 3,300 m, is another good place to set up camp 1. It is more comfortable, with a splendid view that also takes in the entire route. You then go up the glacier along a slope that is not very steep; at the beginning of the season the glacier is covered with snow, but at the end deep crevasses open up. Then the face becomes steep, leading to a triangle of rocks where you can set up camp 2 (3,800 m) on a snowy terrace under an overhanging roof. The route continues to the right, up to the little col, with a 1,000 meter crossing on ice that requires crampons, ice axes, rope and ice pitons. This is one of the most difficult and technical parts of the entire route. Usually a fixed rope is to be found there. The crossing ends on a rather gentle incline that arrives at the col on the southern ridge (6,100 m). You can pitch camp 2 here as well, but there is space only for a few tents. Then you must tackle a small fifty-meter tall face of steep rocks where there is a fixed rope. You come out on the snow ridge, which is long and easy but may be tiring because of the many ups and downs; this leads to the top. There is no need for crampons here, as the snow is usually soft and ski poles should suffice. Camp 3, where you will also stop on the way back down, can be set up either at 6,400 or 6,700 meters. The descent takes 24 hours. The view of Mt. Communism is fantastic.

 

Prices in 2018 (per person)
Self guided
one or two peaks
Guided (3 pax.)
Guided for one peak
(3 pax.)
Complete package
2500 U$
4400 U$
3740 U$
Economic package
1500 U$
3400 U$
2840 U$


Helicopter flights schedule 2018

Djirgital-BC-Djirgital

15.07

29.07

12.08

26.08

Reserve day

16.07

30.07

13.08

27.08

Communism (Ismoil Somoni) Peak (7495 m) and Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) Peak expedition. Mountaineering program 2018. Economic package.

Price – 1500 U$/pax (economic package)

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram; +99897 7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Itinerary 2018:

Day 1-2 Arrival to Dushanbe, than transfer to Dzhirgital (7 hours drive).
Day 3 Helicopter flight to Base Camp (Moskvin’s glade).
Day 4-29 Acclimatization and climbing.
Day 30 Helicopter flight to Dzhirgital and a transfer to Dushanbe
Day 31 Departure from Dushanbe.

Price of economic package includes:
• Arranging of necessary documents
• Transfer Dushanbe – Dzhirgital – Dushanbe
• Helicopter flights Dushanbe – BC – Dushanbe with 20kg / person luggage limit (overload payment – 6 USD/kg – max 10 kg of extra luggage);
• Accommodation in Dushanbe (privat sector, 2 nights)

Services in Base Camp:
• Toilets, luggage office (tent) at BC
• Electric supply 220V; 50HZ
• High-altitude guide consultancy services
• Registration with rescue team

Price of economic package does not include:
– Accommodation in stationary houses/tents at BC – 10U$ / 8U$ / day / pax
– Breakfast – 20U$
– Dinner – 25U$
– Supper – 25U$
– Shower – 10U$ / visit
– Sauna- 20U$ / visit
– Gas bottle (230 mg) new – 9U$ / item
– The Internet – 15$/hour
– Bar – under price-list
– Rent of high-altitude tent – 7U$ / day
– Rent of mobile portable radio set – 5U$ / day

The mountain guide service – 48 U$ /day

Porters:
4200-5300м-8U$ / kg
5300-5800м-12U$ / kg
5800-6300м-20U$ / kg
Above 6300м-28U$ / kg

 


Communism (Ismoil Somoni) Peak (7495 m) and Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) Peak expedition. Mountaineering program 2018. Complete package.

Price – 2500 U$/pax (complete package)

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram; +99897 7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Itinerary 2018:

Day 1-2 Arrival to Dushanbe, than transfer to Dzhirgital (7 hours drive).
Day 3 Helicopter flight to Base Camp (Moskvin’s glade).
Day 4-29 Acclimatization and climbing.
Day 30 Helicopter flight to Dzhirgital and a transfer to Dushanbe
Day 31 Departure from Dushanbe.


Price of complete package includes:

– Registration
– Meetings/seeing-off at the airport
– Transfer Dushanbe-Dzhirgital-Dushanbe
– Helicopter flights from Dzhirgitalja to BC and back (Personal cargo 30 kg max. An overload – 4,5 U$ / kilo).
– Accommodation in hotel (2 nights)
– Full board in BC
– Accommodation in tents at BC
– Shower, sauna (1 time/week)
– Left-luggage office in BC
– Medical aid

Price of complete package does not include:
– Gas bottle (230 mg) new – 9U$ / item
– The Internet – 15$/hour with 10% discount
– Bar – under price-list with 10% discount
– Rent of high-altitude tent – 7U$ / day
– Rent of mobile portable radio set – 5U$ / day

The mountain guide service – 48 U$ /day

Porters:
4200-5300м-8U$ / kg
5300-5800м-12U$ / kg
5800-6300м-20U$ / kg
Above 6300м-28U$ / kg

For further information and to booking please contact us via
your@climberca.com

Appreciation: http://mountains.tos.ru/commun.htm

Climb Mayakovskiy peak 21 days

Mayakovskiy peak 21 days

Program that gives chance to climb Mayakovskiy peak.

Ascension to Mayakovskiy peak (6096 m) one of the most beautiful peaks Southwestern Pamir (range Shakhdarya, Tajikistan) . Classical and easiest routes, ice axes, crampons and special equipment for climbing (plastic boots, warm sleeping bags and etc.

Hikers can also explore the ancient fortress, hot springs and other attractions of the Wakhan Valley as ancient culture , traditions and hospitality of the locals in the Gorno-Badakhshan – one of the mountain people in the world.

Program:

Day 1:
Arrival in Dushanbe. Transfer to hotel. Afternoon excursion in Dushanbe. Hotel / B, L, D

Day 2:
Departure for Kalaykhumb border post via Kulyab-city (1200 m). Lunch in Kulyab. Diner and over-night at the hotel. (370 km, 8 hrs of road).
Guest-house / B, L, D

Day 3:
Drive to Khorog along Tajik-Afghan border.
Hotel/guest-house / B, L, D

Day 4:
Drive to Darshay village visiting hot-springs on the way.
Homestay / B, L, D

Day 5:
Move to the Camp 1 (3500m).
Tents / B, L, D

Day 6:
Move to the Camp 2 (4100m).
Visiting shepherds on the way.
Tents / B, L, D

Day 7:
Acclimatization, hiking around the Camp 2.
Tents / B, L, D

Day 8:
Move to the Camp 3 (4400 m)
Tents / B, L, D

Day 9:
Acclimatization, hiking around the Camp 3.
Tents / B, L, D

Day 10:
Move to the Camp 4 (5250 m)
Tents / B, L, D

Day 11:
Climb the Mayakovskiy Peak (6096 m), return to the Camp 4
Tents / B, L, D

Day 12:
Descent to the Camp 3
Tents / B, L, D

Day 13:
Descent to the Camp 2
Tents / B, L, D

Day 14:
Descent to the Camp 1
Tents / B, L, D

Day 15:
Descent to the Darshay
Homestay / B, L, D

Day 16:
Drive to Bibi-Fatima hot springs, bathing in springs, visit old ruins of Yamchoun fortress (3rd BC – 8th AC), Yamg.
Homestay / B, L, D

Day 17:
Drive to Langar.
Homestay / B, L, D

Day 18:
Drive to Khorog (through Khargush, Jelondi, Rivak passes)
Hotel / B, L, D

Day 19:
Drive to Kala-i Khumb.
Guest-house / B, L, D

Day 20:
Drive to Dushanbe.
Hotel / B, L, D

Day 21:
Departure.

Price: 2016 year:

3-4 pax – 2205 $
5-6 pax – 1990 $
7-8 pax – 1830 $
9-10 pax – 1710 $
11-12pax – 1605 $
13-15pax – 1500 $

Tariffs include all expenses during the stay in Tadjikistan, except of the visa cost (35$/pax) and supplement for single accommodation in Dushanbe (60$).

Contact Us:
ClimberCA International Consortium
your.climberca@ya.ru
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846 – telegram


Fann Mountains. Trekking in Fann Mountains

Key Information

This information in Russian

Tour Duration: 12-14 day(s)
Destination: Tajikistan
Location: Western Tajikistan, near the Uzbek border (and Samarkand)
Grade: Moderate to fairly challenging
Season:
 June – September
Tour Customizable: Yes
Ability to climb Chimtarga, Zamok, Energiya peaks: : Yes
Mountain Guides Service
Included: Yes
Porters Availability: Yes
Cook Availability: Yes
The Guide/Climber Ratio: 1:5 
Suppliers contact information: e-mail: your.climberca@yandex.ru; phone: +99898 
3039846. 

Fann Mountains are beautiful mountains, with a few summits above 5000 m, culminating at Chimtarga peak (5489 m). They are located in Western Tajikistan, near the Uzbek border (and Samarkand). They usually enjoy sunny, stable weather during the summer. The Fann Mountains have recently been “discovered” by western trekking agencies. The northern part (lakes Kulikalon and Alaudin, but also Chimtarga pass and lake Greater Allo) is now visited by large groups (and their porters). Since the Fann Mountains cover a relatively small area we intended to develop such trekking route, which can make possible to visit as many as possible of most significant natural sights in the limit of couple of weeks. The trek starts from North, passes to South, and then turns to West as shown on the map. All the logistics for this trek is prearranged for you by the team of ClimberCA –Mountaineering Consortium.


Fann Mountains trekking in Fann Mountains


Bibi-Djanat Lake

Fann Mountains trekking in Fann Mountains


Main Kulikalon Lake, with one rock wall behind. The
highest summit on the left is peak Maria (4970 m).

Fann Mountains trekking in Fann Mountains


Area near another lake – Dushakha (2950 m), with the
second rock wall in the background. The highest summit
on the right is peak Mirali (5170 m).

Read more
http://www.climberca.com/index.php/30-fann-mountains-trekking-in-fann-mountains

Tadjikistan trekking


Fann Mountains trekking in Fann Mountains
Chapdara and
Bodhona from Alaudin pass.
  1.  Fann Mountains. Trekking in Fann Mountains (12 or 14 days)
  2.  Fann Mountains – Route FT2 – Fann Mountains lakes (11 days)
  3.  Fann Mountains – Route FT3 – Azorchashma (12 days)
  4.  Fann mountains – Route FT4 – Maximal (14 days)
  5.  Fann Mountains – Route FT5 – Dushanbe – Samarkand (10 days)
  6.  Fann Mountains – Route FT6 – Chimtarga (12 days)
  7.  Fann Mountain – Route FT8 “Easy” (6 days)
  8.  Fann Mountains – Route FT9 – Bodhona (8 days)
  9.  Fann mountais – Route FT10 – Southwesterly (9 days)

Fann Mountains trekking in Fann Mountains
Main Kulikalon Lake, with one rock wall behind. The highest summit
on the left is peak Maria (4970 m).

Contact us: pagetour@yandex.com telephone: +99898 3039846


http://www.climberca.com/index.php/39-tadjikistan-trekking