Climbing ABOVE 7000M PEAK in 2018

The international consortium ClimberCA offers you to climb popular ‘seventhousanders’ (mountain peaks 7000+) of Pamir, Tien-Shan, Karakorum and Hymalayas in 2018.

Contacts:
e-mail: your.climberca@ya.ru
telegram: +99898 3039846
watsapp/viber: +99897 7009846

We start with Pamir, here are located four recommended in 2018 7000+ peaks:
– Muztagh-Ata peak – 7546 m. – Bishkek-Bishkek expedition 3200 USD per pax or Kashgar-Kashgar 2950 USD per pax. This mountain peak is one of the most easily achievable peaks in the world and is of particular interest to skiers, as a climb to the top can be made with the use of skitouring equipment.

There an opportunity to join us in affordable, of 44 or 30 days program for climbing Communism Peak and/or Korzhenevskaya Peak in 2018.

– Communism Peak 7495 m. – Dushanbe-Dushanbe expedition (2500 USD per pax)
– Korzhenevskaya Peak 7105 m. – Dushanbe-Dushanbe expedition (2500 USD per pax)
Note. If you climb two peaks (Communism and Korjenevskaya) from the BC “Moskvina glade”, the cost is still 2500 USD per person.- Lenin Peak 7134 m. – Bishkek – Bishkek or Osh – Osh by the price 1180 USD/pax or 1000 USD/pax.

Two 7000+ peaks are located in Tien-Shan:
– Khan-Tengri – 7010 m. – Bishkek-Bishkek expedition. The full package in 2018 году is 1950 USD / pax
– Pobeda Peak 7439 m. – Bishkek-Bishkek expedition. Package price – 1950 USD / pax.
Note. If you climb two peaks (Khan-Tengri and Pobeda) from the BC “South Inylchek”, the cost is still 1950 USD per person.

Karakorum is presented by one the very popular 7000+ peak – Spantik – Islamabad – Islamabad expedition. Price 3450 USD. There are the fixed dates since 1-st & 31-st of July 2018

In Hymalayas we offer you to climb Gyajikang 7,038mThe price is 4500 USD.

Also, upon request, we organize expeditions to the following ABOVE 7000M. PEAKS:
– Pumori (7145 m);
– Putha Hiunchuli (7246m);
– Churen (7371m);
– Tilicho (7134m);
– Lhakpa Ri (7045m) – Tibet face
– Ganesh Himal (7429m)
– Himlung Himal (7126m)
– Baruntse (7125m)

Note: this list does not exclude the possibility of organizing an ascension to any other 7000+ summit of the Himalayas. Just send your enquiry!

Most affordable in 2018 remains the expedition to Lenin Peak. At the same time on this mountain according to the customer we include maximal comfortable for climbing packs, which ideal for non-professionals. This level of the service have no analogues in Central Asia.We provide pre-installed tents, food and sets for cooking at high-altitude camps, installed ropes, guides, porters. There are the fixed dates for guided climbs.

Next to Lenin peak, in terms of affordable price, follows Khan Tengri, which also has fixed dates for guided expeditions, with pre-installed tents, food and sets for cooking at high-altitude camps, installed ropes, guides, porters.

But that’s not all! For the first time in Central Asia we offer you to climb Lenin Peak and Khan-Tengri with oxygen! This unique program will not only make the ascent safer, but also increases the chances of successful ascent in a shorter time (12 days only)!

We wish you good climbs in 2018! your.climberca@ya.ru

Pobeda Peak Expedition 2018

Key Information

Tour Duration: 27 day(s)
Group Size: 1 – 10 people
Destination: Kyrgyzstan
Coordinates: 42°02′06″N 80°07′32″E
Specialty Categories: Mountain Climbing/Ascending Mountain Peaks
Season: Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 1st of July and 31st of August in 2018
International Airfare Included: No
Helicopter Flight to BC and back: Yes
Personal Travel Insurance Included: No
Personal Equipment Included: No
Tour Customizable: Yes
Price Per Person: Full package for 2018 is 1950 USD per person Self Guided Small package in 2018: 1230 USD per person
Mountain Guides Availability: Yes
Mountain Guide Service: 1 guide for 1 person – 2250 USD; 1 guide for 2 persons – 2600 USD; 1 guide for 3 persons – 3000 USD.
The Recommended Guide:Climber Ratio: 1:3

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram; +99897 7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

More info in Russian

Note:
– Climbing to 7000m requires excellent physical fitness and good health. You must be able to walk at altitude for several days consecutively. Average walking time is around 6-7 hours per day. Daily altitude gain is about 500-800 m. You need to be able to handle adverse weather and be comfortable camping on snow covered ground.
– Your insurance should permit you to work on a height above 4200 m.

Note:
Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 1st of July and 31st of August in 2018.

Pobeda Peak Expedition (7.439 m)

Pobeda Mountain PeakPeak Pobeda overranges all the other peaks of the majestic Tien Shan range with more than 400 meters. Together with its broad an complex built it makes for one of the most awesome sights in the mountains. The peak was already scaled in the thirties of the last century by Soviet climbers. But it was not known until the spring of 1943 that they had actually scaled the highest peak of these Northern mountains. In 1943 the Soviet team again succeeded in reaching the summit and this time it’s got its name under which it is still known: Peak Pobeda, meaning “Victory peak”.

It is a highly dangerous, exhausting and technical mountain to climb. Sometimes it’s called “ the coldest mountain on earth”. Actually it is one of the northest 7000+ peaks on the globe and most routes up it come from the West and Northwest. All these factors add an extra difficulty to climbing it. A frightening number of, mostly Russian, mountaineers lay down their lives on this ridge. This bad reputation made that not very many parties have visited the mountain during the last 10 year, and less experienced climbers stay away with it.

Route description

The most often climbed route, coming from the Southwest involves many kilometers of a mixed and broken ridge which is all situated above 7000 meter.

Advanced bace camp is located at Zvjozdochka glacier at 4600 m. Then early in the morning we head for camp at 5300m on Dickiy pass. Camp 3 is at snow plateau at 5700 metres where we will either use snow caves or tents. Further camps are then established at 6400m and 6800m, the upper camp being just before the long traverse (about 6 km. at the altitude above 7000m.) to the summit ridge. A final snow cave is normally established at 7100m towards the other end of the long traverse. The summit day is relatively long.

Basic program – 27 days.

Note: Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 1st of July and 31st of August in 2018.

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel. 
Day 2. Transfer Bishkek- Karkara ( 460 km ), accommodation at the Camp. 
Day 3. Fly by helicopter to BC “ South Inylchek ” (4000m). 
Day 4.  Acclimatization and preparation for ascent. 
Day 5. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent. Pobeda Peak
Day 6. Climb to the camp № 1. 4600m 
Day 7. Climb to the camp № 2. 5300m 
Day 8. Climb to the camp № 3. 5700m 
Day 9. Climb to the camp № 4 6400 m 
Day 10. Descent to the camp № 1.4600 m 
Day 11. Descent to the base camp. 
Day 12. Rest day. 
Day 13. Climb to the camp № 1. 
Day 14. Climb to the camp № 2. 
Day 15. Climb to the camp № 3. 
Day 16. Climb to the camp № 4. 
Day 17. Climb to the camp № 5. 6900 m 
Day 18. Climb to the camp № 6. 7100 m. 
Day 19. Ascent of summit and descent to the camp № 5 
Day 20. Descent to the camp № 3. 
Day 21. Descent to the camp № 1. 
Day 22. Descent to the base camp. 
Day 23. Additional day in case of bad weather. 
Day 24. Additional day in case of bad weather. 
Day 25. Helicopter flight to Karkara and transfer to Bishkek. Overnight in hotel. 
Day 26. Free day in Bishkek. Overnight in hotel. 
Day 27. Transfer to the airport. Departure.

Note: Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last minute changes. Our expedition equipment and food will have to be carried up over a period of time and several climbs to each camp. This routine, of climbing high and sleeping low before occupying each camp, will also provide essential acclimatization. This period will also include essential rest days taken at Base Camp. The expedition guide will work with the primary objective of getting as many people to the top as possible, rather than adhering to any previously laid down itinerary.

Cost of a full package in 2018 is 1950 USD per person.

Full package includes:
* meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
* transfer airport in Bishkek- hotel – airport in Bishkek;
* transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
* helicopter flight to BC and back;
* unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
* accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total)
* accommodation in double tents with fullboard at BC “South Inylchek”;
* free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek”;
* consultancy service of local guide;
* consultancy of doctor;
* registration with local Rescue Party;
* ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
* usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
* rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
* usage of fixed ropes on the route;
* change of air-flight and railway tickets;
* frontier zone permit;
* official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

Cost of a small package in 2018 is 1230 USD per person.

Small package includes:
*
helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 4 USD /kg);
* free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek”;
* consultancy service of local guide;
* consultancy of doctor;
* registration with local Rescue Party;
* ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
* usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
* rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
* usage of fixed ropes on the route;
* change of air-flight and railway tickets;
* frontier zone permit;
* official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

The cost of both packages does not include:
* The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
* International flight;
* All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
* Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
* All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
* The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;
* The rent of mountaineering equipment;

Guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment:

Guide services:
1 guide for 1 pax – 2250 USD;
1 guide for 2 pax – 2600 USD;
1 guide for 3 pax – 3000 USD

Additional services:
Rent of tents for high camps – 80 USD per program
Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 9 USD per one cartridge
International call by satellite telephone – 4 USD/min
Internet – 5 USD/hour

List of items, which will be of a use:
1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
4) High-altitude food

Schedule of helicopter flights in 2018:

July 1, 6, 9, 10, 12, 13, 15, 18, 20, 22, 25, 27, 29, 31
August 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 10, 12, 15, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 30, 31

Your guides

Ilyas TuhvatullinWe recommend your group to be accompanied by one or more Mountain Guides of ClimberCA consortium. For further information and booking please e-mail us your@climberca.com

Mountain Safety

Pobeda Peak is a tough mountain. Firstly, it is world’s ultimate northern mountain of seven-odd thousand meters high (“seventhousander”). Secondly, meteorological conditions of the region are so unpredictable and severe that it deservingly gave a peak a nick-name of “Treacherous Corner”. Even in the summer time, as a bolt from the blue, a snow storm may burst out here – with the winds blowing at 150km/h and nil visibility – and then, again all of a sudden, it may stop.

In winter this region is even more severe. And there is nothing for mountaineer to do here in the winter time. Only once, over nearly 70-years long history of exploration, in 1990, mountaineers got to the top of Pobeda in winter, after which event half of the expedition members had to spend quite a time at Sklifasovsky hospital in Moscow, and, as you can guess, not at all for having a rest there.

Till up to 1969, the number of those who succeeded and stayed alive and those who died on the peak was nearly equal. Only after 1969 mountaineers have outscored the deadly statistics. But it does not mean that the mountain has become easier to climb. It is all just about better tactics and some other novelties that helped the case.

Of course, more advanced contemporary gear contributed to that, too. Nonetheless, it happens nearly every season that somebody dies in the area – either of falling down or of altitude sickness or of hypothermia. Most often it happens due to human mistakes and stupidity. Still such objective hazards as avalanches and bad weather should not be discarded, too.

As ascending Mountain peaks imply a sojourn in high mountains, everyone must follow specific safety rules. An accident while mountain climbing generally has unexpected and negative consequences. A seemingly small mistake, such as twisting an ankle in loose rocks, can quickly turn into a dangerous situation if the climber is on difficult terrain and is still some distance from the base camp. Climbers can minimize the consequences of these mistakes by traveling in groups, carrying first aid equipment, and being cautious in their route planning. Alpine climbers are also exposed to perils beyond their control, such as hidden crevasses and avalanches, and because of the inhospitable environment of most mountains, they risk exposing themselves to hypothermia and altitude sickness. Experienced mountaineers plan ahead for all contingencies and let others know their destination and planned return time.

Crevasses are deep ice fissures or large cracks within a glacier. Many times crevasses are hidden under a covering of snow, making them difficult to identify. Their steep, slippery sides make them almost impossible to climb out of without assistance. For this reason, climbers often rope together and secure themselves to each other when traveling on glaciers and snowfields. Should one partner fall in a crevasse, the other can break the fall and then pull their partner out.

Avalanches are sudden flows of a large mass of snow or ice down a slope or cliff, sometimes at speeds exceeding 160 km/h (100 mph). They occur when heavy snowfall accumulates on steep slopes and the underlying snow pack cannot support the new snow’s weight. Mountaineers can minimize avalanche dangers by staying aware of rapid changes of weather, especially increases in temperature and wind. They should also avoid steep, narrow chutes that provide ideal channels for avalanches.

Hypothermia occurs when the body becomes too chilled to generate enough warmth for vital organs such as the heart and lungs. Most climbers understand that hypothermia is a danger during extremely cold weather, but it also can occur when temperatures are well above freezing. In fact, most cases occur when the outside temperature is from 7° to 10°C (45° to 50°F). Avoiding hypothermia requires several simple precautions. Mountain climbers should stay dry and avoid cotton clothing, which dries slowly and sucks away body warmth as it does dry. They should eat, drink water, and rest frequently, helping them maintain energy levels.

Altitude sickness, also known as mountain sickness, is caused by insufficient oxygen at high elevations. It causes dizziness, shortness of breath, and confusion, and it can strike climbers at any elevation above 2,400 m (about 8,000 ft). Mountaineers who ascend to higher altitudes often take a day or two to become accustomed to their new environment. They climb slowly when going above 4,500 m (15,000 ft). If climbers develop symptoms of altitude sickness, they should descend immediately to a lower altitude before the condition worsens. Some climbers use bottled oxygen to combat the effects of the sickness and aid their efforts at higher altitudes.

Appreciation:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peak_Pobeda
http://encarta.msn.com/encyclopedia_761568485_3/Mountain_Climbing.html

Picture appreciation: http://niosa-data1.narod.ru/TienShan_07/img/img_0272.htm

Three 7000+ peaks of Kyrgyzstan in 2016

Sketch itinerary

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek. Flight to Osh,accommodation in hotel.
Day 2. Transfer to base camp “Achyk-Tash”
Day 3. Acclimatization ascent of “Petrovskogo” peak. Descent to the base camp. Preparation day for climb to Camp 1.
Day 4. Climb to the Camp 1 (4400 m)
Day 5. Acclimatization ascent of “Domashniy” peak (4700m). Descent to the Camp 1. Preparation day for climb to the Camp 2.
Day 6. Climb to the Camp 2 (5300m)
Day 7. Climb to the Camp 3 (6200m)
Day 8. Descent to the camp 1 (4400m)
Day 9. Descent to the base camp (3600 м.)
Day 10. Rest day
Day 11. Preparation day
Day 12. Climb to the Camp 1 (4400m)
Day 13. Climb to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 14. Climb to the Camp 3 (6200 m)
Day 15. Ascent of the Lenin peak summit (7134 m) and descent to the Camp 3.
Day 16. Descent to the camp 1 (4400m)
Day 17. Descent to the base camp (3600 m)
Day 18. Descent to the base camp.
Day 19. Rest day
Day 20. Transfer to Osh.
Day 21. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 22. Free day in Bishkek.
Day 23. Transfer Bishkek – Karkara (460 km), accommodation at Karkara Base Camp.
Day 24. Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 25. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 26. Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 27. Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 28. Camp 3. 5900m.
Day 29. Camp 4. 6400 m.
Day 30. Ascend to summit 7010m and descend to Camp 3.
Day 31. Descend to BC
Day 32. Rest day
Day 33. Preparation day
Day 34. Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 35. Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 36. Camp 3. 5900m
Day 37. Camp 4. 6400m
Day 38. Camp5. 6900m
Day 39. Camp6. 7100m
Day 40. Ascent of the Pobeda Peak summit 7439 and descent to the camp 5
Day 41. Descent to Camp 3. 5900m
Day 42. Descent to Camp 1. 4200m
Day 43. Descent to BC
Day 44. Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 45. Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 46. Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel
Day 47. Free day in Bishkek.
Day 48. Transfer to Airport

Helicopter schedule 2016
July 3, 8, 10, 15 ,17, 22, 24, 27, 29, 31
August 4, 5, 6, 7, 12, 14, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28

Transport schedule Osh – BC Achik-Tash
July
2, 5, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 24, 26, 28, 30, 31
August
2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 16, 18, 20, 23, 25, 27

Transport schedule BC Achik-Tash – Osh
July
3, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15, 17, 18, 20, 22, 24, 25, 27, 29, 31
August
1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28, 31

Price in 2016:
Full package – 2975 USD
Minimum package – 1600 USD

Permanent link – http://www.climberca.com/index.php/83-four-snow-leopard-summits-in-one-package

ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846

Complete package Khan-Tengri and Pobeda (around 21 days of service)

• meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
• transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel – airport in Bishkek;
• transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
• helicopter flight to BC and back;
• unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
• accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!);
• accommodation in double tents with full board at BC “South Inylchek“;
• free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
• consultancy service of local guide;
• consultancy of doctor;
• registration with local Rescue Party;
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• change of air-flight and railway tickets;
• frontier zone permit;
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

Econoic package Khan-Tengri and Pobeda (around 21 days of service)

• helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 3 EURO/kg);
• free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
• consultancy service of local guide;
• consultancy of doctor;
• registration with local Rescue Party;
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• change of air-flight and railway tickets;
• frontier zone permit;
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

The cost for both packages does not include:

• The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
• International flight;
• All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
• Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
• All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
• The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;
• The rent of mountaineering equipment;

Porter & guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment:

Guide services:
1 person – 1200 Euro
2 person – 700 Euro per person
3 person – 550 Euro per person

Porter services:
BC – Camp 1 – 4 Euro/per kg
Camp 1 – Camp 2 – 8 Euro/per kg
Camp 2 – Camp 3 – 8 Euro/per kg

Note: Cost of porter services is calculated for both ascending and descending. Porters service should be booked before program.

Additional services at Base Camp:
Rent of tents for high camps – 60 Euro per program
Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 6 euro per one cartridge
International call by satellite telephone – 3 euro/min

http://www.climberca.com/index.php/26-pobeda-peak-expedition

ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.ru
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846 – when call, please take into consideration
our time zone – GMT+05:00

Mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan
Climb Lenin Peak,
Climb Lenin Peak Expedition (7.134 m),
Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition (7010 m),
Pobeda Peak
Expedition (7.439 m)
,
Experienced Climbing in Ala-Archa, Pamiro–Alai, Turkestan Ridge,
Asian Patagonia of Pamiro-Alay. Experienced Technical Climbing, Ibn Sina Lenin Peak routes, Ibn Sina Lenin Peak routes.

http://climberca.com/index.php/27-mountaineering-in-kyrgyzstan


Mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan

— ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.ru
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846