Lenin Peak Expedition. Climb Lenin Peak. Lenin peak’s range climbing

More info in Russian

Base Camp Achik-Tash will be active between 2nd July and 1st September 2016

Situated in the Pamirs on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tadjikistan, close to the borders with China and Afghanistan, Lenin Peak is one of only five 7000 meter peaks in the former USSR. At 7134 meters it is the third highest, the others being Peak Communism (7495m) and Korzhenevsky (7105m), both in the Pamirs, and Peak Pobeda (7,439m) and Khan Tengri (7010m) in the Tien Shan. To climb all five admits you to the elite group of Russian climbers known as Snow Leopards. Lenin Peak is considered the most accessible 7000-meter mountain. There is a high way going almost to the foot of the peak. Also Lenin Peak by the normal Razdelny route is practically no technical climbing involved.

Route Description

Base camp is situated on a raised meadow between two steep river valleys. The ground is a carpet of wild garlic and alpine flowers. From BC we head over the Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4200m). The ascent usually takes 1-1.5 hours by a good path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. Then we descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. Further we should cross the river carefully. The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout at this time. Across the left moraine of glacier to the Lenin glacier (4100m) and hike to camp 1 (4400 m).

From camp 1 at 4400 meters, we cross the dry Lenin Glacier and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face). At 5000 meters we traverse to the west and, ascending gently, we arrive at the rim of a large snow basin. We cross this, traversing beneath Razdelny Peak. A short climb up a scree/snow slope leads to camp 2. There are a few crevasses on this section of the route but it is straightforward snow plodding. It is, however, a long and tiring day, and an early start is needed to avoid the worst effects of the sun. Directly above camp 2 is an easy-angled couloir which leads to the north ridge of Razdelny Peak (6148 meters). Initially the ridge is almost level, but as we approach Razdelny Peak the angle steeples.

The final 400 meter climb to the summit of Razdelny Peak is straight-forward but the effects of altitude make it hard work. The views from the summit are superb. To the north we can finally get the true perspective of the Alai Plain while to the south there are a multitude of snowy peaks. Peak Communism and Korzhenevsky dominate our view of the south Pamirs. Further east the Wakhan and Hindu Kush are clearly visible, and on a good day it is possible to make out Tirich Mir. From Razdelny Peak the ridge dog-legs to the west and drops down 100 meters to Razdelny Pass at 6000 meters. It is here that we will make camp 3.

From camp 3 the whole of the summit ridge is visible. From here we will have two options. Either we climb directly to the summit and back to camp 3 in one long day, or we place a fourth camp at about 6400 meters. From camp 3 we follow the broad ridge to a plateau (the site of camp 4) at 6400 meters. We traverse this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. We traverse this and rejoin the ridge just below the summit.

The summit at 7134 meters is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakoram.

Basic program: 21 days

Lenin Peak. Camp 3 at 6000 metres  Lenin Peak. Camp 3 at 6000 metres Lenin Peak.  The view from camp 3 at 6000 metres

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel
Day 2. Flight to Osh, transfer Osh-Achik-Tash BC.
Day 3. Acclimatization ascent of Petrovskogo peak.
Day 4. Descent to the base camp.
Day 5. Preparation day
Day 6. Climb to the camp1. 4400 m.
Day 7. Climb to the camp2. 5300 m.
Day 8. Climb to the camp3. 6200 m.
Day 9. Descent to the camp1.
Day 10. Descent to the base camp 3600 m.
Day 11. Rest day.
Day 12. Preparation day.
Day 13. Climb to camp1.
Day 14. Climb to camp2.
Day 15. Climb to camp3.
Day 16. Climb to camp4. 6400 m.
Day 17. Ascent of the summit 7134 m. and descent to the camp3.
Day 18. Descent to the camp1.
Day 19. Descent to the base camp. 3600 m.
Day 20. Transfer to Osh.
Day 21. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in a hotel

Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last minute changes. This period will also include essential rest days taken at Base Camp.

Ibn Sina Lenin Peak routes
Ibn Sina Lenin Peak routes

1662×602. 707 kbb

Cost of the packages in 2016:

Bishkek – Bishkek program full package: 1125 USD/person

Full package Bishkek-Bishkek + additional services. More >>>

Given cost includes:

  • Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)
  • Meeting/seeing off at the airport
  • All transfers according to the program
  • Flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek and back (please note only 15 kg incl. hand luggage are free of charge!; Extra kilo costs about 0,5 EURO)
  • Accommodation in hotel with breakfasts for 4 nights in total during the program (* please consider early check in the hotel)
  • Lunch en route to/from BC
  • Rent of walkie-talkie
  • Registration with rescue team
  • Ecological fee

Osh – Osh program full package: 970 USD/person

Full package Osh-Osh + additional services. More >>>

Given cost includes:

  • Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)
  • Meeting/seeing off the airport
  • All transfers according to the program
  • Accommodation at hotels with breakfasts (2 nights in total, please consider early check in the hotel)
  • Lunch en route to/from BC
  • Rent of walkie-talkie
  • Registration with rescue team
  • Ecological fee

Services that are included into both packages at Base Camp and Camp1:

 

Services in the base camp “Achik Tash” on 3600m:

Services in the camp 1 on 4400m:

Accommodation in double tents. Each tent is equipped with mattresses and wooden platforms and electricity.

Accommodation in double tents with mattresses and wooden platforms.

Meals – full board

Meals – full board

Guide-consultant’s services

Guide-consultant’s services

Dining-tent, WC, storage, baths and shower

Dining-tent, WC tent, storage tent

Medical kit

Medical first aid in the base camp (professional doctor)

Electricity 220V, permanent source of electricity!

Electricity 220V, 50HZ, only in the evening in the dining room, source-generator

 

Cost of Small package: 480 USD/person

Given cost includes:

  • Transfer Osh-Achik-Tash BC-Osh
  • Accommodation on the territory of Base Camp in own tents, usage of BC’s infrastructure
  • Ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC
  • Registration with local Rescue Team
  • Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service
  • Rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents (only for the groups with more than 3 pax)
  • Frontier zone permit
  • Official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed)
  • Consultancy of a doctor

The cost of all packages does not include:

  • The cost of Kyrgyz visa
  • International flight
  • All optional deviations from the main itinerary
  • Beverages and meals not included in main menu
  • All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.)
  • The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending
  • The rent of mountaineering equipment for ascending
  • Meeting/seeing off at the airport
  • Accommodation in hotel

We offer you guaranteed departure date expedition to Lenin Peak with experienced mountaineering guide.

The cost of Guided expedition Bishkek – Bishkek in 2016 is 1980 USD per person.

The cost of Guided expedition Osh-Osh in 2016 is 1820 USD per person.

Lenin Peak from the Garlic Field  Lenin Peak. Hike to camp 1 (4200 m) Lenin Peak.  Lenin glacier

Transport schedule Osh – BC “Achik Tash” for 2016:

July

2, 5, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 24, 26, 28, 30, 31

August

2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 16, 18, 20, 23, 25, 27

 

Transport schedule BC “Achik Tash” – Osh for 2016:

July

3, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15, 17, 18, 20, 22, 24, 25, 27, 29, 31

August

1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28, 31

The cost of additional services:

Rent of high altitude tent –  80 USD per tent

Rent of already installed high altitude tent –  70 USD per night

Usually we use ARCTIC FOX SILICONE and FOX EXPLORER tents.

High altitude food (high altitude food is preparing by yourself) – 120 USD per set.

Gas cartridge Kovea (230ml, screw) – 9 USD per balloon

Rent of rope – 80 USD for program

Rent of cooking set – 25 USD per set

Rent of gas stove – 25 USD per stove.


Mountain Guides’ services:

1 guide for 1 person – 1300 USD

1 guide for 2 persons – 1560 USD

1 guide for 3 persons –1740 USD

Guide is working with the client during whole program beginning from Base Camp “Achik Tash” on 3600 m.


Porters’ Services:

Base Camp (3600 m) – Camp 1 (4400m) – 3 USD per kg

Camp 1 (4400 m) – Camp 2 (5300m) –  6 USD per kg

Camp 2 (5300 m) – Camp 3 (6100 m) –  8 USD per kg

Camp 1 (4400m) – Camp 3 (6100m) – 14 USD per kg.

We are counting carrying up and carrying down the baggage separately.

The price for carrying up and carrying down is the same.

List of items, which will be of use:
1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
4) High-altitude foodstuff

ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/enclimberca
http://www.facebook.com/climberca
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
pagetour@ya.ru
tel. +99898 3039846 – when call, please take into consideration our time zone – GMT+05:00

 

Three 7000+ peaks of Kyrgyzstan in 2016

Sketch itinerary

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek. Flight to Osh,accommodation in hotel.
Day 2. Transfer to base camp “Achyk-Tash”
Day 3. Acclimatization ascent of “Petrovskogo” peak. Descent to the base camp. Preparation day for climb to Camp 1.
Day 4. Climb to the Camp 1 (4400 m)
Day 5. Acclimatization ascent of “Domashniy” peak (4700m). Descent to the Camp 1. Preparation day for climb to the Camp 2.
Day 6. Climb to the Camp 2 (5300m)
Day 7. Climb to the Camp 3 (6200m)
Day 8. Descent to the camp 1 (4400m)
Day 9. Descent to the base camp (3600 м.)
Day 10. Rest day
Day 11. Preparation day
Day 12. Climb to the Camp 1 (4400m)
Day 13. Climb to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 14. Climb to the Camp 3 (6200 m)
Day 15. Ascent of the Lenin peak summit (7134 m) and descent to the Camp 3.
Day 16. Descent to the camp 1 (4400m)
Day 17. Descent to the base camp (3600 m)
Day 18. Descent to the base camp.
Day 19. Rest day
Day 20. Transfer to Osh.
Day 21. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 22. Free day in Bishkek.
Day 23. Transfer Bishkek – Karkara (460 km), accommodation at Karkara Base Camp.
Day 24. Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 25. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 26. Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 27. Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 28. Camp 3. 5900m.
Day 29. Camp 4. 6400 m.
Day 30. Ascend to summit 7010m and descend to Camp 3.
Day 31. Descend to BC
Day 32. Rest day
Day 33. Preparation day
Day 34. Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 35. Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 36. Camp 3. 5900m
Day 37. Camp 4. 6400m
Day 38. Camp5. 6900m
Day 39. Camp6. 7100m
Day 40. Ascent of the Pobeda Peak summit 7439 and descent to the camp 5
Day 41. Descent to Camp 3. 5900m
Day 42. Descent to Camp 1. 4200m
Day 43. Descent to BC
Day 44. Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 45. Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 46. Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel
Day 47. Free day in Bishkek.
Day 48. Transfer to Airport

Helicopter schedule 2016
July 3, 8, 10, 15 ,17, 22, 24, 27, 29, 31
August 4, 5, 6, 7, 12, 14, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28

Transport schedule Osh – BC Achik-Tash
July
2, 5, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 24, 26, 28, 30, 31
August
2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 16, 18, 20, 23, 25, 27

Transport schedule BC Achik-Tash – Osh
July
3, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15, 17, 18, 20, 22, 24, 25, 27, 29, 31
August
1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28, 31

Price in 2016:
Full package – 2975 USD
Minimum package – 1600 USD

Permanent link – http://www.climberca.com/index.php/83-four-snow-leopard-summits-in-one-package

ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846

Four Snow Leopard Summits in one package 2014


Pamir Climbing

3700 – complete package for four summits without Lenin peak.
2200 – economic package for four summits without Lenin peak.

Price/package information:

Complete package Communism and Korzhenevskaya Peaks

Price of complete package includes:
– Registration
– Meetings/seeing-off at the airport
– Transfer Dushanbe-Dzhirgital-Dushanbe
– Helicopter flights from Dzhirgitalja to BC and back (Personal cargo 50 kg max. An overload – 4,5 € / kilo).
– Accommodation in hotel 2* (2 nights)
– Full board in BC
– Accommodation in tents at BC
– Shower, sauna (1 time/week)
– Left-luggage office in BC
– Medical aid

Price of complete package does not include:
– Gas bottle (230 mg) new – 8€ / item
– Refueling of gas bottle (230 mg) – 3€ / item
– Satellite phone – under price-list
– The Internet – under price-list
– Bar – under price-list
– Rent of high-altitude tent – 7€ / day
– Rent of mobile portable radio set – 5€ / day

– The mountain guide service – 60 € /day

– Porters:
4200-5300м-8€ / kg
5300-5800м-12€ / kg
5800-6300м-20€ / kg
Above 6300м-28€ / kg

Economy package Communism and Korzhenevskaya Peaks

Price of economic package includes:
– Registration
– Meetings/seeing-off at the airport
– Transfer Dushanbe-Dzhirgital-Dushanbe
– Helicopter flights from Dzhirgital to BC and back (Personal cargo 20 kg max. An overload – 4,5€/kilo)
– Accommodation in private guesthouse (2 nights)
– Use of an infrastructure of BC (a place for tents, water (not boiled), a toilet, an electricity, a first-aid post, a left-luggage office)

Price of economic package does not include:
– Accommodation in stationary houses/tents at BC – 8€ / 10€ / day / pax
– Breakfast – 10€
– Dinner – 15€
– Supper – 15€
– Shower – 5€ / visit
– Sauna- 10€ / visit
– Left-luggage office – 2,5€ / day
– Gas bottle (230 mg) new – 8€ / item
– Refueling of gas bottle (230 mg) – 3€ / item
– Satellite phone – under price-list
– The Internet – under price-list
– Bar – under price-list
– Rent of high-altitude tent – 7€ / day
– Rent of mobile portable radio set – 5€ / day

– The mountain guide service – 60 € /day

– Porters:
4200-5300м-8€ / kg
5300-5800м-12€ / kg
5800-6300м-20€ / kg
Above 6300м-28€ / kg

Complete package Khan-Tengri and Pobeda (around 21 days of service)

• meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
• transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel – airport in Bishkek;
• transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
• helicopter flight to BC and back;
• unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
• accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!);
• accommodation in double tents with full board at BC “South Inylchek“;
• free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
• consultancy service of local guide;
• consultancy of doctor;
• registration with local Rescue Party;
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• change of air-flight and railway tickets;
• frontier zone permit;
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

Economy package Khan-Tengri and Pobeda (around 21 days of service)

• helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 3 EURO/kg);
• free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
• consultancy service of local guide;
• consultancy of doctor;
• registration with local Rescue Party;
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• change of air-flight and railway tickets;
• frontier zone permit;
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

The cost for both packages does not include:

• The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
• International flight;
• All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
• Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
• All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
• The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;
• The rent of mountaineering equipment;

Porter & guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment:

Guide services:
1 person – 1200 Euro
2 person – 700 Euro per person
3 person – 550 Euro per person

Porter services:
BC – Camp 1 – 4 Euro/per kg
Camp 1 – Camp 2 – 8 Euro/per kg
Camp 2 – Camp 3 – 8 Euro/per kg

Note: Cost of porter services is calculated for both ascending and descending. Porters service should be booked before program.

Additional services at Base Camp:
Rent of tents for high camps – 60 Euro per program
Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 6 euro per one cartridge
International call by satellite telephone – 3 euro/min

ClimberCA International Consortium
e-mail: pagetour@yandex.com
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.ru
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846 – when call, please take into consideration
our time zone – GMT+05:00