Communism – Korzhenevskaya peaks

Communism – Korzhenevskaya peaks region (map).

Восхождение на пики Коммунизма и Корженевской

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram; +99897 7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Traditionally the central and northwestern parts of the Pamir are considered one region. Two of the three peaks over 7,000 m above sea level in the Pamir are in this area – Mt. Communism (7,495 m) and Mt. Evgenii Korzhenevskoy (7,105m)- and there is also the Fedchenko glacier, the largest in Central Asia (71.2 km long). This region consists of a series of mountain ranges that run in a latitudinal direction and are connected to one another by the Akademia Nauk (Academy of Science) range. There are two areas with base camps. The first is the Moskvina camp, which lies near a little lake on the plateau covered with edelweiss and wormwood that extend up to where the Waltera and Moskvina glaciers converge, at 4,100 m. This camp is the starting point for the climbs up Mt. Communism and Mt. Korzhenevskoy. The second camp is Suloev (or Fortambek), on the plateau of the same name, where the Fortambek glacier points northward, opposite the Tramplinniy (Springboard) glacier. The climate in this region is characteristically quite variable. The mountain climbing season is very short; the best period is from mid-July to August 20.
Central part of Pamir presents two giants for climbing: Communism (7495 m) and Korzhenevskoy (7105 m) peaks, which are standing in front of each other. Both of them has extra class routes and classical ones for easy climbing with pre acclimatization as usual up to Pamirskoe Plateau.

Peak Communism (7495 m).
Mt. Communism is an awe-inspiring rock and ice pyramid with a quadrangular base that has four distinct faces. The eastern one was climbed for the first time by Evgenii Abalakov in 1933 via a difficult route with a very complicated access, along the Bivuachniy (Bivouac) glacier On the western face is the classic route, Burevestnik, which runs along the ridge. The third face plunges down to the south for 2,000 meters on the Beliaeva glacier; it is quite steep characterized by the so called Puso (Paunch) a rock wall from 600 to 800 meters high with an incline of more than 80°. Here are the most difficult of 25 routes up Mt. Communism. The South-Western face was first climbed in 1968 by E. Mislovskiy, who kept to the right of the Puso. The true “Paunch” route was climbed only in 1977 by A. Nepomniashkiy. Later, other routes were opened by K. Valiev and V, Solonnikov. The face looking over the “Springboard” glacier has not been climbed yet. It is considered impossible to conquer because of the extremely dangerous icefall that descends onto the Pamirskoe plateau. The normal route up Mt. Communism, on the northern face, crosses the Pamirskoe plateau. This is one of the highest and largest plateaus in the world: about three km wide and twelve km long from west to east. The lowest point is at 4,700 meters altitude, the highest 6,300 m. At 6,000 m there is a little rocky peak called Parachutistov (Parachuters) in honour of the tragic expedition of Soviet military parachuters that was organized in 1967 for training and sporting purposes; many parachuters were killed when the strong wind caused them to crash against the rock, while the others managed to save their lives by opening their parachutes after they had passed over the wind belt.


The Barodkin Route up Mt. Communism (7,495 m, 5A) – from North side. Classical routes

The normal route up Mt. Communism begins from the Waltera glacier on to the northern face of the massif. It was opened in 1968 by J. Barodkin along the ridge that bears his name. On a technical level it is not too difficult; it can be compared to the routes up Lenin Peak. Yet it is rated 5 A because of the high altitude. After acclimatization that includes a climb to the snow-covered Pamirskoe plateau and back, the route to the top takes about a week. From the Moskvina base camp climbers go up towards the south along the Waltera glacier, which they cross in a westerly direction after about a one-hour walk. Continue climb along the steep and rubbly ridge up to camp I, at 5,300 m, above the summit of the large rock triangle. In most cases this triangle is climbed over to the left, along the inclined ledge and the snow gully. This is the easiest way, but it is risky because it goes under the glacier icefall. From camp I the itinerary follows the rock ridge, which is often encrusted with ice, up to two snow domes called Grudi (Breasts, 6,200 m). In high season there are clear tracks of this part of the route, and in the more complicated sections a permanent rope is set up. From here you have a level walk to camp 2 (6,200 m), which is in the Pamirskoe plateau. The third day you tackle the long crossing of the plateau, at the end of which you will find camp 3 by going up a snow ridge (6,400 m). The ascent continues along the ridge, up to the western shoulder of the summit, called Dushanbe (Great Barrier) Peak (6,956 m). Camp 4 is in a snow-covered col at 6,900 m. The route continues to the left over the snow under the summit rocks, up to the col. This is the most difficult part of the climb, because of the steepness and altitude. You reach the top by climbing up the final 300 meters along the northern ridge. You can descend to camp 4, or even camp 3, on the same day. The record for the fastest climb up Mt. Communism was set in 1990 by V. Obikhod and E. Klinezkiy, who took about 20 hours, without bivouacking, to get over the 3,300 meters difference in height, reach the summit and then go back to the base camp. The climber from Yugoslavia A. Stremeiy, who opened the Yugoslavs’ Route up Mt. Everest, holds another record: in 1983 he skied down Mt. Communism along the Barodkin route.

The Route up Mt. Korzhenevskoy (7,105 m, 5A)

(In the foto to the right) peak Korjenevskoy, seen from Pamirskoe plateau.
Originally called Kul-Santalak, the third peak in the Pamirs over 7,000 meters high was “discovered” in 1910 by a Russian geographer, N. Korzhenevskiy, who wanted to name it after his wife Evgenia. It was climbed for the first time in 1953 by A, Agarov, who went up the northern side. The peak has many complicated routes on its western face. The route along the southern crest (opened by V. Tsetkin in 1966) is not too difficult and can easily be climbed in three or four days after a suitable acclimatization period. From the Moskvina base camp, follow the path along the torrent that descends from the glacier on the southern side of the mountain, and then continue to the right and cross the Moskvina glacier. Continue along the rock and debris ridge until the slope becomes less steep; here, at about 3,200 meters, you can set up camp 1. Proceed along the glacier slope that descends on the southern side of the mountain. The glacier is steep, so that rope, crampons, ice axes and ice screws are necessary. Then the incline again becomes less steep and the route approaches the moraine; here, at 3,300 m, is another good place to set up camp 1. It is more comfortable, with a splendid view that also takes in the entire route. You then go up the glacier along a slope that is not very steep; at the beginning of the season the glacier is covered with snow, but at the end deep crevasses open up. Then the face becomes steep, leading to a triangle of rocks where you can set up camp 2 (3,800 m) on a snowy terrace under an overhanging roof. The route continues to the right, up to the little col, with a 1,000 meter crossing on ice that requires crampons, ice axes, rope and ice pitons. This is one of the most difficult and technical parts of the entire route. Usually a fixed rope is to be found there. The crossing ends on a rather gentle incline that arrives at the col on the southern ridge (6,100 m). You can pitch camp 2 here as well, but there is space only for a few tents. Then you must tackle a small fifty-meter tall face of steep rocks where there is a fixed rope. You come out on the snow ridge, which is long and easy but may be tiring because of the many ups and downs; this leads to the top. There is no need for crampons here, as the snow is usually soft and ski poles should suffice. Camp 3, where you will also stop on the way back down, can be set up either at 6,400 or 6,700 meters. The descent takes 24 hours. The view of Mt. Communism is fantastic.

 

Prices in 2018 (per person)
Self guided
one or two peaks
Guided (3 pax.)
Guided for one peak
(3 pax.)
Complete package
2500 U$
4400 U$
3740 U$
Economic package
1500 U$
3400 U$
2840 U$


Helicopter flights schedule 2018

Djirgital-BC-Djirgital

15.07

29.07

12.08

26.08

Reserve day

16.07

30.07

13.08

27.08

Communism (Ismoil Somoni) Peak (7495 m) and Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) Peak expedition. Mountaineering program 2018. Economic package.

Price – 1500 U$/pax (economic package)

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram; +99897 7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Itinerary 2018:

Day 1-2 Arrival to Dushanbe, than transfer to Dzhirgital (7 hours drive).
Day 3 Helicopter flight to Base Camp (Moskvin’s glade).
Day 4-29 Acclimatization and climbing.
Day 30 Helicopter flight to Dzhirgital and a transfer to Dushanbe
Day 31 Departure from Dushanbe.

Price of economic package includes:
• Arranging of necessary documents
• Transfer Dushanbe – Dzhirgital – Dushanbe
• Helicopter flights Dushanbe – BC – Dushanbe with 20kg / person luggage limit (overload payment – 6 USD/kg – max 10 kg of extra luggage);
• Accommodation in Dushanbe (privat sector, 2 nights)

Services in Base Camp:
• Toilets, luggage office (tent) at BC
• Electric supply 220V; 50HZ
• High-altitude guide consultancy services
• Registration with rescue team

Price of economic package does not include:
– Accommodation in stationary houses/tents at BC – 10U$ / 8U$ / day / pax
– Breakfast – 20U$
– Dinner – 25U$
– Supper – 25U$
– Shower – 10U$ / visit
– Sauna- 20U$ / visit
– Gas bottle (230 mg) new – 9U$ / item
– The Internet – 15$/hour
– Bar – under price-list
– Rent of high-altitude tent – 7U$ / day
– Rent of mobile portable radio set – 5U$ / day

The mountain guide service – 48 U$ /day

Porters:
4200-5300м-8U$ / kg
5300-5800м-12U$ / kg
5800-6300м-20U$ / kg
Above 6300м-28U$ / kg

 


Communism (Ismoil Somoni) Peak (7495 m) and Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) Peak expedition. Mountaineering program 2018. Complete package.

Price – 2500 U$/pax (complete package)

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram; +99897 7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Itinerary 2018:

Day 1-2 Arrival to Dushanbe, than transfer to Dzhirgital (7 hours drive).
Day 3 Helicopter flight to Base Camp (Moskvin’s glade).
Day 4-29 Acclimatization and climbing.
Day 30 Helicopter flight to Dzhirgital and a transfer to Dushanbe
Day 31 Departure from Dushanbe.


Price of complete package includes:

– Registration
– Meetings/seeing-off at the airport
– Transfer Dushanbe-Dzhirgital-Dushanbe
– Helicopter flights from Dzhirgitalja to BC and back (Personal cargo 30 kg max. An overload – 4,5 U$ / kilo).
– Accommodation in hotel (2 nights)
– Full board in BC
– Accommodation in tents at BC
– Shower, sauna (1 time/week)
– Left-luggage office in BC
– Medical aid

Price of complete package does not include:
– Gas bottle (230 mg) new – 9U$ / item
– The Internet – 15$/hour with 10% discount
– Bar – under price-list with 10% discount
– Rent of high-altitude tent – 7U$ / day
– Rent of mobile portable radio set – 5U$ / day

The mountain guide service – 48 U$ /day

Porters:
4200-5300м-8U$ / kg
5300-5800м-12U$ / kg
5800-6300м-20U$ / kg
Above 6300м-28U$ / kg

For further information and to booking please contact us via
your@climberca.com

Appreciation: http://mountains.tos.ru/commun.htm

Lenin Peak. Full board up to the summit with high altitude guide service.

Guaranteed departure date expedition 2018. Lenin Peak. Full board expedition on the sharing in the tents basis.

Key information:

Duration of the tour: 21 days
The number of climbers in the group: 2-15
Elevation: 7134 m
Location: Kyrgyzstan
Lat/Lon: 39.34690°N/72.86920°E
Peculiarity: High altitude climbing, mountaineering & All inclusive GUIDED tours.
Season: July – August; Base Camp in 2018, will operate between
July 1st till September 2nd, 2018.
Maximum comfortable packs, ideal for entry-level climbers: Available
The cost of international flights:
Not included
The cost of local flight: Included (In Bishkek – Bishkek packages only)
The cost of personal insurance: Not included
Personal equipment: Not included. Please note that we do not rent plastic boots, crampons, ice axes, carabiners, belay systems, ascender / descender devices, warm clothes, sleeping bags, sleeping mats and other items of personal use.
The price of AI package in 2018: Bishkek-Bishkek: 2050 USD/pax. Osh-Osh: 1870 USD/pax.
High-Altitude guide: Included
The maximum ratio guide – customers: 1:3

Supplier of services:
ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us.
Quick reference phone:
+99898 3039846 – telegram; +99897
7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Fixed dates on the sharing in the tents basis.

1 July to 22 July
Basic program: 21 days:
01.07.17    – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
2.07.17  – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
03.07.17-19.07.17  – acclimatization and ascending program.
20.07.17  – transfer to Osh.
21.07.17  – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
22.07.17  – flight home.

8 July to 29 July.
Basic program: 21 days:
08.07.17 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
09.07.17 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
10.07.17-26.07.17 – acclimatization and ascending program.
27.07.17 – transfer to Osh.
28.07.17 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
29.07.17 – flight home.

15 July to 5 August

Basic program: 21 days:
15.07.17 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
16.07.17 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
17.07.17-02.08.17 – acclimatization and ascending program.
03.08.17 – transfer to Osh.
04.08.17 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
05.08.17 – flight home.

22 July to 12 August
Basic program: 21 days:
22.07.17 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
23.07.17 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
24.07.17-09.08.17 – acclimatization and ascending program.
10.08.17 – transfer to Osh.
11.08.17 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
12.08.17 – flight home.


29 July to 19 August

Basic program: 21 days:
29.07.17 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
30.07.17 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
31.07.17-16.08.17 – acclimatization and ascending program.
17.08.17 – transfer to Osh.
18.08.17 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
19.08.17 – flight home.

5 August to 26 August
Basic program: 21 days:
05.08.17 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
06.08.17 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
07.08.17-23.08.17 – acclimatization and ascending program.
24.08.17 – transfer to Osh.
25.08.17 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
26.08.17 – flight home.

12 August to 2 September
Basic program: 21 days:
12.08.17 – arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
13.08.17 – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
14.08.17-30.08.17 – acclimatization and ascending program.
31.08.17 – transfer to Osh.
01.09.17 – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.
02.09.17 – flight home.

Cost of the guided expedition Bishkek – Bishkek in 2018 is 2050 USD/pax.

Cost of the guided expedition Osh – Osh in 2018 is 1870 USD/pax.

Given cost includes services of full package and additional services: 

  • Experienced high altitude guide
  • Installed high altitude tents on 5300 м and 6200 м (3 persons in tent!)
  • Group equipment: rope (if needed), gas and gas stoves, cooking set.
  • High altitude food
  • Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary);
  • Meeting/seeing off at the airport;
  • Flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek and back (please note only 15 kg incl. hand luggage are free of charge!; Extra kilo costs 1-2 USD/kilo)
  • Transfer Osh – Base Camp – Osh;
  • Lunch en route to/from BC;
  • Accommodation in hotel for 4 nights (in Bishkek-Bishkek package) and for 2 nights (in Osh-Osh package);
  • Rent of walkie-talkie;
  • Registration with rescue team;
  • Ecological fee;

Services at Base Camp and Camp1, which are included into all packs on this page:

Services in the base camp “Achik Tash” on 3600m:

Services in the camp 1 on 4400m:

Accommodation in double tents. Each tent is equipped with mattresses and wooden platforms and electricity.

Accommodation in double tents with mattresses and wooden platforms.

Meals – full board

Meals – full board

Guide-consultant’s services

Guide-consultant’s services

Dining-tent, WC, storage, baths and shower

Dining-tent, WC tent, storage tent

Medical kit

Medical first aid in the base camp (professional doctor)

Electricity 220V, permanent source of electricity!

Electricity 220V, 50HZ, only in the evening in the dining room, source-generator

Transport schedule Osh – BC “Achik Tash” for 2018:

July

2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31

August

2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14

Transport schedule BC “Achik Tash” – Osh for 2018:

July

20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28, 30, 31

August

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31, 1

The cost of extra services:

Porter Services:

Base Camp (3600 m) – Camp1 (4400m) – 3 USD per kg
Camp 1 (4400 m) – Camp2 (5300m) – 6 USD per kg
Camp 2 (5300 m) – Camp3 (6100 m) – 8 USD per kg
Camp 1 (4400m) – Camp3 (6100m) – 14 USD per kg
* We are counting carrying up and carrying down the baggage separately. The price for carrying up and carrying down is the same.

Equipment:

Rent of high altitude tent – 80 USD per tent.
Rent of already installed high altitude tent – 60 USD per night.
* Usually we use ARCTIC FOX SILICONE and FOX EXPLORER tents.
High altitude food (high altitude food is preparing by yourself) – 120 USD per set.
Gas cartridge Kovea (230ml, screw) – 9 USD per balloon.
Rent of rope – 30 USD for program.
Rent of cooking set – 25 USD per set.
Rent of gas stove – 25 USD per stove.

Equipment for camps 2 and 3 for Lenin Peak

At the camp 2 at the height 5300m a.s.l. and the camp 3 at the height 6200m a.s.l. there are tents FOX EXPLORER for double/triple accommodation and ARCTIC FOX SILICONE for double accommodation.

List of items, which will be of use:

1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
4) High-altitude foodstuff

The set of the high-altitude foodstuff

  Name 
in asortimente max.
1 quick cooked porridge  porridge in pack  “Bistrof” 15 bags,  40 gr 
2  groats rolled oats; semolina; musli 1000 gr 
3  meat fat; smoked fat; smoked sausage, meat cuts, sausage product 1500 gr 
4  cheese product 

cheese, melted cheese

1500 gr
5  dried fruits  dried apricots; raisins; prunes; dates; peanuts; walnut 1500 gr 
6  chocolate 

snikers; mars; chocolate in bars

10 bars, 60 gr 
7  sweet  chocolate candles; honey; halva; jem,biscuits in assortiment 2000 gr
8  garnish 

quick cooked: noodle ; пюре; rice; buckwheat

1000 gr
9 canned food  canned stewed meat; fish; condensed sweet milk 5 cans
10 sublimated soup   in assortment 10 bags, 60 gr
11 hot drinks  Tea; coffee; cacao; sugar; dry milk 70 packs
12 cold drinks  instant drinks in assortment 10 packs
13 bakery product  crackers; bread; biscuits 1500 gr
14

Others

 

solt; mustard; lemons; ketchup; polyethylene bag; toilet paper;candles ; wipes; if needed

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tel. +99897 7009846 – WhatsApp;
tel. +99898 3039846 – telegram – GMT+05:00

 

Lenin Peak Sky Race

Mountaineering Competition “Lenin Peak Sky Race”

This page in Russian >>>

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational Consortium. About Us.
Quick reference phone:
+99898 3039846 – telegram +99897 7009846 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Lenin Peak is the highest summit of Zailiysky Range. Its height is 7134 meters above sea level. There are 3 seven thousand meters peaks on the territory of Kyrgyzstan, and Lenin Peak is the most accessible and popular amongst the mountain climbers of the world.

As a rule, Lenin Peak is a starting summit for “Snow Leopard” program. Lenin Peak is a success with experienced climbers and down hill skiers. The mount itinerary isn’t of particular technical difficulty. And, the descent from the seven thousand meters peak makes an indelible impression even upon the supporter of the most extreme sports. Weather conditions are propitious enough in the region of Lenin Peak. However, you shouldn’t forget that Lenin Peak is seven thousand meters summit that is why a principal difficulty of the expedition to the Lenin Peak is an altitude. Low temperatures, the periods of foul weather, as well as avalanches must be taken into account. The “Achik Tash” Base Camp, which is the starting point for the expedition to Lenin Peak, is situated on a verdant glade at an altitude of 3000 meters a. s. l. The 1st camp is located on a moraine at an altitude of 4400 meters above sea level. The both camps offer a comfortable accommodation and give a perfect possibility to have a good rest during the expedition.

Descriptions and conditions

The race will be held on August 11, 2018. The competition starts in BC “Achik Tash” located at the altitude of 3600 m, over Puteshestvennikov (Travelers) Pass (4100 m) to Camp 1 (4400m) and finishes in BC “Achik Tash”. The distance is 24 km (+1500m)
The skyrunning is open to all athletes who are over the age of 18 years. The result of participant is defined from the start point till finish. The start and finish are located in ”Achik Tash”Base Camp. Participants who have reached the finish without any assistance and returned to the start point not later than 2pm of the start day are considered to have completed the race successfully.

The check points of the race will be discussed separetely. In case of control time exceeding the participant will be recommended to go down to the base camp. Any kind of transport or additional help use are strictly prohibited. Each participant should be aware of the risk he/she undertakes while the race. Each participant undertakes the responsibility for his/her health condition and safety. The operator of the race provide first medical aid where necessary. The Organizers of the competition check the route and provide the belaying where necessary. The fact a participant takes part in the race means his/her physical and professional.

Itinerary

09 August – Arrival in Achik Tash Base Camp, registration of participants.
10 August – active acclimatization, walk up to Puteshestvennikov Pass
11 August – 8:00 am start. 07:00 pm Competition sum up, Rewarding Ceremony
12 August – reserve day
13 August – Departure from Base Camp

ATTENTION: EACH PARTICIPANT MUST HAVE SAFETY AND MEDICAL INSURANCE!

Program Bishkek-Bishkek:

07.08. Arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the hotel. Overnight in a hotel;
08.08. Flight to Osh. Transfer Osh – Base Camp “Achik Tash”;
09.08. Acclimatization.
10.08. Preparation for the run up, registration;
11.08. Run up; Competition sum up, Awarding Ceremony;
12.08. Reserve day;
13.08. Transfer to Osh;
14.08. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in the hotel;

Program Osh-Osh:

08.08. Arrive to Osh in the morning. Transfer Osh – Base Camp “Achik Tash”;
09.08. Acclimatization.
10.08. Preparation for the run up, registration;
11.08. Run up; Competition sum up, Awarding Ceremony;
12.08. Reserve day;
13.08. Transfer to Osh;

Price

1 – Program Bishkek – Bishkek full package: 600 USD/person

The border permit for visiting the border zone and registration in OVIR (if needed);
Transfer airport – hotel – airport in Osh and in Bishkek;
Air tickets Bishkek- Osh – Bishkek (luggage allowance – 15 kg free of charge; more than 15 kg is to be paid extra – 1-2 USD/кг);
All transfers as per program;
Accommodation in Bishkek and in Osh (not more than 4 nights!) in a hotel with breakfast;
Lunch or lunch box on the way from Osh to the Base Camp and from the Base Camp to Osh;
Walkie-talkie rent;
Registration in the rescue team;
Ecological fee.

2 – Program Osh-Osh full package:420 USD/pax

The price of the full package Osh – Base Camp – Osh includes:
The border permit for visiting the border zone and registration in OVIR (if needed);
Transfer airport – hotel – airport in Osh;
Transfer Osh-Base Camp “Achik Tash” – Osh;
Lunch or lunch box on the way from Osh to the Base Camp and from the Base Camp to Osh;
Registration in the rescue team;
Ecological fee.

3 – Small package: 150 USD/pax
The price of the small package includes:
Transfer Osh – Achik Tash Base Camp – Osh
Accommodation at the territory of the Base Camp and Camp 1in your own tents, using the infrastructure of the Base Camp and Camp 1*
Ecological fee.
Registration in the rescue team;
Walkie-talkie rent (only for group of 3 People and more)
The border permit for visiting the border zone and registration in OVIR (if needed);
Medical doctor-consultant’s service
If necessary it is possible to use the set tents at 5300m and 6200m during the run up.
* – For those who use the small package of the high speed ascent to Lenin Peak accommodation and meal in the Base Camp and in Camp 1 is not more than 5 days

All the packages do not include:

Kyrgyz visa fee
Starting fee (10 usd per person)
International flight
Meals not mentioned in the program and not included into the package
Alcoholic drinks
Personal expenses (insurance , payment for extra luggage on the air lanes)
Mountain guide service
Climbing equipment rent

Transport schedule Osh – BC “Achik Tash” for 2018:

July

2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31

August

2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14

Transport schedule BC “Achik Tash” – Osh for 2018:

July

20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28, 30, 31

August

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31, 1

List of nessary equipment

Backpack
Sleeping bag -1
Sleeping pad – 1
Sun glasses – 1 or 2.
Torch (headlamp) -1 + set of spare batteries
Folding knife – 1
Down jacket/parka -1
Gortex: jacket – 1 suit
Polartec: jacket 200 -1; pants – 1
Thermal underwear – 1 suit
Trekking boots – 1

Climbing Lenin peak + Khan Tengri in one summer. Guided expedition offer

Lenin Peak & Khan-Tengry in one summer 2018. Guided expedition and fixed dates

Supplier of services: ClimberCA Inernational ConsortiumAbout Us
Quick reference phone: +99898 3039846 – telegram
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

If you feel that mountain peaks, up to 7000 m tall, are of your abilities, then you are ready to make a step on a track of “the Snow leopard». The reality is that the “Snow Leopard” summits: Lenin peak and Khan Tengri, are still remain the most accessible, in material sense, peaks that are up to 7000 m tall in the World.

We have fixed dates for the guided expedition to two peaks Lenin and Khan-Tengri: 15 July to 24 August. 

The cost of guided full board expedition to two peaks Lenin and Khan-Tengri in 2018: 5050 USD/person.

15 July to 24 August

15.07.18
– arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the Hotel.
16.07.18    – flight to Osh. Transfer to “Achik Tash” BC.
17.07.18-02.08.18    – acclimatization and ascending program.
03.08.18    – transfer to Osh.
04.08.18    – flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in Hotel.

Cost of the guided expedition Bishkek – Bishkek in 2018:  2050 USD per person.
Cost of the guided expedition Osh – Osh in 2018:  1870 USD per person.

05.08.18    Transfer Bishkek – Karkara BC. Accommodation in double tents. Overnight.
06.08.18
Helicopter flight Karkara BC – South Inylchek BC (4000 m asl)
07.08-21.08.18
Acclimatization and ascending program
22.08.18
Helicopter flight South Inylchek BC – Karkara BC. Transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in the hotel.
23.08.18    Free day in Bishkek.
24.08.18    Transfer to the airport. Departure from Bishkek.

The cost of the program in 2018: 3000 USD / pax.

Source >>>

Lenin Peak Expedition. Climb Lenin Peak. Lenin peak’s range climbing

More info in Russian

Base Camp Achik-Tash will be active between 2nd July and 1st September 2016

Situated in the Pamirs on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tadjikistan, close to the borders with China and Afghanistan, Lenin Peak is one of only five 7000 meter peaks in the former USSR. At 7134 meters it is the third highest, the others being Peak Communism (7495m) and Korzhenevsky (7105m), both in the Pamirs, and Peak Pobeda (7,439m) and Khan Tengri (7010m) in the Tien Shan. To climb all five admits you to the elite group of Russian climbers known as Snow Leopards. Lenin Peak is considered the most accessible 7000-meter mountain. There is a high way going almost to the foot of the peak. Also Lenin Peak by the normal Razdelny route is practically no technical climbing involved.

Route Description

Base camp is situated on a raised meadow between two steep river valleys. The ground is a carpet of wild garlic and alpine flowers. From BC we head over the Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4200m). The ascent usually takes 1-1.5 hours by a good path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. Then we descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. Further we should cross the river carefully. The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout at this time. Across the left moraine of glacier to the Lenin glacier (4100m) and hike to camp 1 (4400 m).

From camp 1 at 4400 meters, we cross the dry Lenin Glacier and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face). At 5000 meters we traverse to the west and, ascending gently, we arrive at the rim of a large snow basin. We cross this, traversing beneath Razdelny Peak. A short climb up a scree/snow slope leads to camp 2. There are a few crevasses on this section of the route but it is straightforward snow plodding. It is, however, a long and tiring day, and an early start is needed to avoid the worst effects of the sun. Directly above camp 2 is an easy-angled couloir which leads to the north ridge of Razdelny Peak (6148 meters). Initially the ridge is almost level, but as we approach Razdelny Peak the angle steeples.

The final 400 meter climb to the summit of Razdelny Peak is straight-forward but the effects of altitude make it hard work. The views from the summit are superb. To the north we can finally get the true perspective of the Alai Plain while to the south there are a multitude of snowy peaks. Peak Communism and Korzhenevsky dominate our view of the south Pamirs. Further east the Wakhan and Hindu Kush are clearly visible, and on a good day it is possible to make out Tirich Mir. From Razdelny Peak the ridge dog-legs to the west and drops down 100 meters to Razdelny Pass at 6000 meters. It is here that we will make camp 3.

From camp 3 the whole of the summit ridge is visible. From here we will have two options. Either we climb directly to the summit and back to camp 3 in one long day, or we place a fourth camp at about 6400 meters. From camp 3 we follow the broad ridge to a plateau (the site of camp 4) at 6400 meters. We traverse this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. We traverse this and rejoin the ridge just below the summit.

The summit at 7134 meters is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakoram.

Basic program: 21 days

Lenin Peak. Camp 3 at 6000 metres  Lenin Peak. Camp 3 at 6000 metres Lenin Peak.  The view from camp 3 at 6000 metres

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel
Day 2. Flight to Osh, transfer Osh-Achik-Tash BC.
Day 3. Acclimatization ascent of Petrovskogo peak.
Day 4. Descent to the base camp.
Day 5. Preparation day
Day 6. Climb to the camp1. 4400 m.
Day 7. Climb to the camp2. 5300 m.
Day 8. Climb to the camp3. 6200 m.
Day 9. Descent to the camp1.
Day 10. Descent to the base camp 3600 m.
Day 11. Rest day.
Day 12. Preparation day.
Day 13. Climb to camp1.
Day 14. Climb to camp2.
Day 15. Climb to camp3.
Day 16. Climb to camp4. 6400 m.
Day 17. Ascent of the summit 7134 m. and descent to the camp3.
Day 18. Descent to the camp1.
Day 19. Descent to the base camp. 3600 m.
Day 20. Transfer to Osh.
Day 21. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in a hotel

Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last minute changes. This period will also include essential rest days taken at Base Camp.

Ibn Sina Lenin Peak routes
Ibn Sina Lenin Peak routes

1662×602. 707 kbb

Cost of the packages in 2016:

Bishkek – Bishkek program full package: 1125 USD/person

Full package Bishkek-Bishkek + additional services. More >>>

Given cost includes:

  • Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)
  • Meeting/seeing off at the airport
  • All transfers according to the program
  • Flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek and back (please note only 15 kg incl. hand luggage are free of charge!; Extra kilo costs about 0,5 EURO)
  • Accommodation in hotel with breakfasts for 4 nights in total during the program (* please consider early check in the hotel)
  • Lunch en route to/from BC
  • Rent of walkie-talkie
  • Registration with rescue team
  • Ecological fee

Osh – Osh program full package: 970 USD/person

Full package Osh-Osh + additional services. More >>>

Given cost includes:

  • Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)
  • Meeting/seeing off the airport
  • All transfers according to the program
  • Accommodation at hotels with breakfasts (2 nights in total, please consider early check in the hotel)
  • Lunch en route to/from BC
  • Rent of walkie-talkie
  • Registration with rescue team
  • Ecological fee

Services that are included into both packages at Base Camp and Camp1:

 

Services in the base camp “Achik Tash” on 3600m:

Services in the camp 1 on 4400m:

Accommodation in double tents. Each tent is equipped with mattresses and wooden platforms and electricity.

Accommodation in double tents with mattresses and wooden platforms.

Meals – full board

Meals – full board

Guide-consultant’s services

Guide-consultant’s services

Dining-tent, WC, storage, baths and shower

Dining-tent, WC tent, storage tent

Medical kit

Medical first aid in the base camp (professional doctor)

Electricity 220V, permanent source of electricity!

Electricity 220V, 50HZ, only in the evening in the dining room, source-generator

 

Cost of Small package: 480 USD/person

Given cost includes:

  • Transfer Osh-Achik-Tash BC-Osh
  • Accommodation on the territory of Base Camp in own tents, usage of BC’s infrastructure
  • Ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC
  • Registration with local Rescue Team
  • Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service
  • Rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents (only for the groups with more than 3 pax)
  • Frontier zone permit
  • Official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed)
  • Consultancy of a doctor

The cost of all packages does not include:

  • The cost of Kyrgyz visa
  • International flight
  • All optional deviations from the main itinerary
  • Beverages and meals not included in main menu
  • All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.)
  • The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending
  • The rent of mountaineering equipment for ascending
  • Meeting/seeing off at the airport
  • Accommodation in hotel

We offer you guaranteed departure date expedition to Lenin Peak with experienced mountaineering guide.

The cost of Guided expedition Bishkek – Bishkek in 2016 is 1980 USD per person.

The cost of Guided expedition Osh-Osh in 2016 is 1820 USD per person.

Lenin Peak from the Garlic Field  Lenin Peak. Hike to camp 1 (4200 m) Lenin Peak.  Lenin glacier

Transport schedule Osh – BC “Achik Tash” for 2016:

July

2, 5, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 24, 26, 28, 30, 31

August

2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 16, 18, 20, 23, 25, 27

 

Transport schedule BC “Achik Tash” – Osh for 2016:

July

3, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15, 17, 18, 20, 22, 24, 25, 27, 29, 31

August

1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28, 31

The cost of additional services:

Rent of high altitude tent –  80 USD per tent

Rent of already installed high altitude tent –  70 USD per night

Usually we use ARCTIC FOX SILICONE and FOX EXPLORER tents.

High altitude food (high altitude food is preparing by yourself) – 120 USD per set.

Gas cartridge Kovea (230ml, screw) – 9 USD per balloon

Rent of rope – 80 USD for program

Rent of cooking set – 25 USD per set

Rent of gas stove – 25 USD per stove.


Mountain Guides’ services:

1 guide for 1 person – 1300 USD

1 guide for 2 persons – 1560 USD

1 guide for 3 persons –1740 USD

Guide is working with the client during whole program beginning from Base Camp “Achik Tash” on 3600 m.


Porters’ Services:

Base Camp (3600 m) – Camp 1 (4400m) – 3 USD per kg

Camp 1 (4400 m) – Camp 2 (5300m) –  6 USD per kg

Camp 2 (5300 m) – Camp 3 (6100 m) –  8 USD per kg

Camp 1 (4400m) – Camp 3 (6100m) – 14 USD per kg.

We are counting carrying up and carrying down the baggage separately.

The price for carrying up and carrying down is the same.

List of items, which will be of use:
1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
4) High-altitude foodstuff

ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/enclimberca
http://www.facebook.com/climberca
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
pagetour@ya.ru
tel. +99898 3039846 – when call, please take into consideration our time zone – GMT+05:00

 

Three 7000+ peaks of Kyrgyzstan in 2016

Sketch itinerary

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek. Flight to Osh,accommodation in hotel.
Day 2. Transfer to base camp “Achyk-Tash”
Day 3. Acclimatization ascent of “Petrovskogo” peak. Descent to the base camp. Preparation day for climb to Camp 1.
Day 4. Climb to the Camp 1 (4400 m)
Day 5. Acclimatization ascent of “Domashniy” peak (4700m). Descent to the Camp 1. Preparation day for climb to the Camp 2.
Day 6. Climb to the Camp 2 (5300m)
Day 7. Climb to the Camp 3 (6200m)
Day 8. Descent to the camp 1 (4400m)
Day 9. Descent to the base camp (3600 м.)
Day 10. Rest day
Day 11. Preparation day
Day 12. Climb to the Camp 1 (4400m)
Day 13. Climb to the Camp 2 (5300 m)
Day 14. Climb to the Camp 3 (6200 m)
Day 15. Ascent of the Lenin peak summit (7134 m) and descent to the Camp 3.
Day 16. Descent to the camp 1 (4400m)
Day 17. Descent to the base camp (3600 m)
Day 18. Descent to the base camp.
Day 19. Rest day
Day 20. Transfer to Osh.
Day 21. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 22. Free day in Bishkek.
Day 23. Transfer Bishkek – Karkara (460 km), accommodation at Karkara Base Camp.
Day 24. Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 25. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 26. Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 27. Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 28. Camp 3. 5900m.
Day 29. Camp 4. 6400 m.
Day 30. Ascend to summit 7010m and descend to Camp 3.
Day 31. Descend to BC
Day 32. Rest day
Day 33. Preparation day
Day 34. Camp 1. 4200m.
Day 35. Camp 2. 5300m.
Day 36. Camp 3. 5900m
Day 37. Camp 4. 6400m
Day 38. Camp5. 6900m
Day 39. Camp6. 7100m
Day 40. Ascent of the Pobeda Peak summit 7439 and descent to the camp 5
Day 41. Descent to Camp 3. 5900m
Day 42. Descent to Camp 1. 4200m
Day 43. Descent to BC
Day 44. Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 45. Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day 46. Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel
Day 47. Free day in Bishkek.
Day 48. Transfer to Airport

Helicopter schedule 2016
July 3, 8, 10, 15 ,17, 22, 24, 27, 29, 31
August 4, 5, 6, 7, 12, 14, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28

Transport schedule Osh – BC Achik-Tash
July
2, 5, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 24, 26, 28, 30, 31
August
2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 16, 18, 20, 23, 25, 27

Transport schedule BC Achik-Tash – Osh
July
3, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15, 17, 18, 20, 22, 24, 25, 27, 29, 31
August
1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28, 31

Price in 2016:
Full package – 2975 USD
Minimum package – 1600 USD

Permanent link – http://www.climberca.com/index.php/83-four-snow-leopard-summits-in-one-package

ClimberCA International Consortium
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846

Four Snow Leopard Summits in one package 2014


Pamir Climbing

3700 – complete package for four summits without Lenin peak.
2200 – economic package for four summits without Lenin peak.

Price/package information:

Complete package Communism and Korzhenevskaya Peaks

Price of complete package includes:
– Registration
– Meetings/seeing-off at the airport
– Transfer Dushanbe-Dzhirgital-Dushanbe
– Helicopter flights from Dzhirgitalja to BC and back (Personal cargo 50 kg max. An overload – 4,5 € / kilo).
– Accommodation in hotel 2* (2 nights)
– Full board in BC
– Accommodation in tents at BC
– Shower, sauna (1 time/week)
– Left-luggage office in BC
– Medical aid

Price of complete package does not include:
– Gas bottle (230 mg) new – 8€ / item
– Refueling of gas bottle (230 mg) – 3€ / item
– Satellite phone – under price-list
– The Internet – under price-list
– Bar – under price-list
– Rent of high-altitude tent – 7€ / day
– Rent of mobile portable radio set – 5€ / day

– The mountain guide service – 60 € /day

– Porters:
4200-5300м-8€ / kg
5300-5800м-12€ / kg
5800-6300м-20€ / kg
Above 6300м-28€ / kg

Economy package Communism and Korzhenevskaya Peaks

Price of economic package includes:
– Registration
– Meetings/seeing-off at the airport
– Transfer Dushanbe-Dzhirgital-Dushanbe
– Helicopter flights from Dzhirgital to BC and back (Personal cargo 20 kg max. An overload – 4,5€/kilo)
– Accommodation in private guesthouse (2 nights)
– Use of an infrastructure of BC (a place for tents, water (not boiled), a toilet, an electricity, a first-aid post, a left-luggage office)

Price of economic package does not include:
– Accommodation in stationary houses/tents at BC – 8€ / 10€ / day / pax
– Breakfast – 10€
– Dinner – 15€
– Supper – 15€
– Shower – 5€ / visit
– Sauna- 10€ / visit
– Left-luggage office – 2,5€ / day
– Gas bottle (230 mg) new – 8€ / item
– Refueling of gas bottle (230 mg) – 3€ / item
– Satellite phone – under price-list
– The Internet – under price-list
– Bar – under price-list
– Rent of high-altitude tent – 7€ / day
– Rent of mobile portable radio set – 5€ / day

– The mountain guide service – 60 € /day

– Porters:
4200-5300м-8€ / kg
5300-5800м-12€ / kg
5800-6300м-20€ / kg
Above 6300м-28€ / kg

Complete package Khan-Tengri and Pobeda (around 21 days of service)

• meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
• transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel – airport in Bishkek;
• transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
• helicopter flight to BC and back;
• unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
• accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!);
• accommodation in double tents with full board at BC “South Inylchek“;
• free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
• consultancy service of local guide;
• consultancy of doctor;
• registration with local Rescue Party;
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• change of air-flight and railway tickets;
• frontier zone permit;
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

Economy package Khan-Tengri and Pobeda (around 21 days of service)

• helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 3 EURO/kg);
• free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;
• consultancy service of local guide;
• consultancy of doctor;
• registration with local Rescue Party;
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route;
• change of air-flight and railway tickets;
• frontier zone permit;
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

The cost for both packages does not include:

• The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
• International flight;
• All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
• Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
• All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
• The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;
• The rent of mountaineering equipment;

Porter & guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment:

Guide services:
1 person – 1200 Euro
2 person – 700 Euro per person
3 person – 550 Euro per person

Porter services:
BC – Camp 1 – 4 Euro/per kg
Camp 1 – Camp 2 – 8 Euro/per kg
Camp 2 – Camp 3 – 8 Euro/per kg

Note: Cost of porter services is calculated for both ascending and descending. Porters service should be booked before program.

Additional services at Base Camp:
Rent of tents for high camps – 60 Euro per program
Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 6 euro per one cartridge
International call by satellite telephone – 3 euro/min

ClimberCA International Consortium
e-mail: pagetour@yandex.com
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.pagetour.org
http://www.facebook.com/ClimberCA.ru
www.ClimberCA.com
www.ClimberCA.ru
www.PageTour.org
skype – dmitriy.page
tel. +99898 3039846 – when call, please take into consideration
our time zone – GMT+05:00