Khan-Tengri Peak North Side Expedition (7010 m)

Khan-Tengri peak

We invite you to participate in the Khan-Tengri Peak Group Expedition from the North.

“North Inylchek” and “South Inylchek” Base Camps will be active between 10th of July and 25st of August in 2024.
Khan-Tengri Peak expedition 2024

Guided Khan-Tengri Peak expedition – Special offer & fixed dates 2024

Acclimatization trek from «At-Jailoo» 2500m to BC «South Inylchek» 4100m + mountaineering program

Supplier of services: ClimberCA International ConsortiumAbout Us
https://t.me/ClimberCA – telegram
WhatsApp / Viber +7966 065-53-44
e-mail – your@climberca.com
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as ‘The Mountains of Heaven’.

Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed – all by Soviet teams.

We offer a classical route – from the North from the Northern Inylchek glacier. This approach is one of most popular among climbers.

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– This information in Russian

– Guided Khan-Tengri Peak expedition – Special offer & fixed dates 2024

– Khan-Tengri Peak North Side Expedition (7010 m)

– Khan-Tengri Peak North to South Expedition

– Acclimatization trek from «At-Jailoo» 2500m to BC «South Inylchek» 4100m + mountaineering program

Supplier of services: ClimberCA International ConsortiumAbout Us
Telegram – https://t.me/ClimberCA
WhatsApp / Viber +7966 065-53-44
e-mail – your@climberca.com

Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

If you book this tour through us, we guarantee you accurate and professional fulfillment of all obligations, as well as attentive individual approach to each client.

“North Inylchek” and “South Inylchek” Base Camps will be active between 10th of July and 25st of August in 2024.

The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as ‘The Mountains of Heaven’.

Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed – all by Soviet teams.

We offer a classical route – from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 or 4 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.

Route Description

The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward ‘scrambling’ for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches. There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful. From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40 degees, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m.

Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.
Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.

Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.

The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.

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Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak expedition 2024

Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak expedition, Ismoil Somoni Peak

 

Восхождение на пики Коммунизма и Корженевской

 

Prices in 2024 (per person)
Self guided
Complete package
3900 U$
Optimal package
3500 U$
Economical package
2700 U$


Helicopter flights schedule 2024

July

15

24

August

3,15

25

Communism (Ismoil Somoni) Peak (7495 m) and Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) Peak expedition. Mountaineering program 2024. Packages.

 

Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak

Price – 3900 U$/pax / 3500 U$/pax / 2700 U$/pax

Supplier of services: ClimberCA International Consortium. About Us
https://t.me/ClimberCA – telegram; +7966 0655344 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.


Price of complete package includes:

– Meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Dushanbe
– Accommodation in Dushanbe (2 nights) Hotel
– Transfer Dushanbe – airport Djirgital and back
– Helicopter flight Djirgital – BC Moskvina – Djirgital
– Accommodation in Djirgital (1 night)
– Accommodation in BC (heated room)
– Meal in BC
– Set of high altitude food
– Free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC
– Infrastructure of BC (TV, charging, storage roomn)
– Consultation about itenerary
– First aid
– Registration with local Rescue Party
– Rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents
– Usage of fixed ropes on the route
– Accommodation in high altitude camps 5300/5800
– Official registration with authorities of Tadzikistan
– Ecology fee
– Border permit

Price of optimal package includes:
– Meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Dushanbe
– Accommodation in Dushanbe (2 nights) guest house
– Transfer Dushanbe – airport Djirgital and back
– Helicopter flight Djirgital – BC Moskvina – Djirgital
– Accommodation in Djirgital (1 night)
Accommodation in BC (tents)
– Meal in BC
– Set of high altitude food
– Free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC
– Infrastructure of BC (TV, charging, storage roomn)
– Consultation about itenerary
– First aid
– Registration with local Rescue Party
– Rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents
– Usage of fixed ropes on the route
– Official registration with authorities of Tadzikistan
– Ecology fee
– Border permit

Price of economical package includes:
– Meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Dushanbe
– Transfer Dushanbe – airport Djirgital and back
– Helicopter flight Djirgital – BC Moskvina – Djirgital
– Free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC
– Infrastructure of BC (TV, charging, storage roomn)
– Consultation about itenerary
– First aid
– Registration with local Rescue Party
– Rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents
– Usage of fixed ropes on the route
– Official registration with authorities of Tadzikistan
– Ecology fee
– Border permit

Prices does not include:
– Visa application
– Guide and porter services
– Equipment rental
– Gas cylinders
– International flight
– Alcoholic drinks
– Personal expenses (insurance, aircraft overload, etc.)

Additional service in BC
– New gas canisters (230 mg) – 10 USD/gas canister (reduction 2 USD for return of used canister)
– Internet – 5 USD per hour
– Rent of high altitude tent – 80 USD per program
– Accommodation in already installed altitude tent – 80 USD per tent per night
– Set of altitude food – 120 USD per set
– Breakfast – 20 USD, Lunch – 25 USD, Dinner – 25 USD

Guides
Guide service according a program on Korzhevskaya Peak – 2000 USD per program (1 guide is working max with 3 pax)
Guide service according a program on Communism Peak – 2500 USD per program (1 guide is working max with 3 pax)
Guide service per day: on Korzhevskaya Peak – 140 USD per day, on Communism Peak – 170 USD per day

Porters:
– (4200 – 5300 м) – 10 USD/kg,
– (5300 – 5800 м) – 14 USD/kg,
– (5800 – 6300 м) – 20 USD/kg,

For further information and to booking please contact us via
your@climberca.com; +7771 4674193 – telegram; +7966 0655344 – whatsapp/viber

Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak

Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak

Ismoil Somoni Peak (Communism Peak) satellite informationn

Ismoil Somoni Peak (Communism Peak) is the highest mountain in Tajikistan and in the former Soviet Union (elevation 7,495 m, prominence 3,402 m Coordinates 38°55’00”N 72°01’00”E), recently named after Ismoil Somoni, the ancestor of the Samanid dynasty.

When the existence of a peak in the Soviet Pamir Mountains higher than Lenin Peak (now called Ibn Sina Peak) was first established in 1928, the mountain was tentatively identified with Garmo Peak; but as the result of the work of further Soviet expeditions, it became clear by 1932 that they were not the same, and in 1933 the new peak, from the Akademiya Nauk Range, was named Stalin Peak, after Joseph Stalin.

In 1962, the name was changed to Communism Peak, and in 1998 to its current name.

The first ascent was made in 1933 by the Soviet mountaineer Yevgeniy Abalakov.


Peak Korzhenevskaya satellite information

Peak Korzhenevskaya is the third highest peak (elevation 7,105 m, prominence 1,650 m) in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan. It is one of the five “Snow Leopard Peaks” in the territory of the former Soviet Union. It is named after Evgenia Korzhenevskaya, the wife of Russian geographer Nikolai L. Korzhenevskiy, who discovered the peak in August 1910.

Due to transliteration and declension issues the peak’s name is rendered in many different ways, including Korzhenevski, Korzhenevskoi, and Korzhenievsky.

Peak Korzhenevskaya lies about 13 km (8 mi) north of Ismoil Somoni Peak (formerly Communism Peak), the highest point of the Pamirs in the territory of the former Soviet Union. It forms the end of the northwest fork of the Akademiya Nauk Range, the north-south trending subrange which forms the core of the Pamirs. It rises on the south bank of the Muksu River, and to the west of the peak is the Fortambek Glacier. While most of the Akademiya Nauk Range is in Tajikistan’s Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province (GBAO), Peak Korzhenevskaya is located a little to the west of the GBAO line, in Jirgatol district (Region of Republican Subordination).

Peak Korzhenevskaya is one of the five 7,000 m peaks of the former Soviet Union (this counts Khan Tengri, which is more often given as 6,995 m) that were required for a climber to be awarded the Snow Leopard award, the highest honor given to Soviet mountaineers. It is usually said to be the second easiest of these peaks to climb, after Lenin Peak. However it is not a easy mountain; its rise above local terrain rivals that of Ismoil Somoni Peak, since it is closer to the deep valley of the Muksu River.

In 1937 D. Gushchin led an attempt on the peak which reached the lower summit (6,910 m).

Korzhenevskaya was first climbed in 1953 by a party led by A. Ugarov; the summit team comprised Ugarov, B. Dimitriev, A. Goziev, A. Kovyrkov, L. Krasavin, E. Ryspajev, R. Sielidzanov, and P. Skorobogatov. They approached via the Fortambek Glacier, to the Korzhenevsky glacier, and thence to the north ridge.

Partly since it is required for the Snow Leopard award, Peak Korzhenevskaya has been climbed many times; it is the second most frequented major peak in the Pamirs, after Lenin Peak. A base camp on the moraine of the Moskvin Glacier, and helicopter access, make this possible. Peak Korzhenevskaya has been climbed from almost every direction, including a first winter ascent in 1986; most of these ascents were by Russians. The most common current route on the mountain ascends from the south and attains the summit ridge from the west side.


Sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ismoil_Somoni_Peak
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peak_Korzhenevskaya