Pobeda Peak Expedition 2026
The Northernmost 7,000er of the Tien Shan
Pobeda Peak (Jengish Chokusu, 7,439 m) is one of the most demanding high-altitude objectives in Central Asia. Located in the Kokshaal-Too Range of eastern Kyrgyzstan on the border with China, Pobeda is recognized as the northernmost seven-thousand-meter peak of the Tien Shan and is reserved for experienced expedition climbers.
This mountain is notorious for extreme weather, long exposed ridges, complex glacier travel, and high objective risk. Wind speeds frequently exceed 120–150 km/h, temperatures drop below −30°C, and conditions can change rapidly. Pobeda allows no margin for error and demands excellent physical conditioning, technical competence, and disciplined decision-making.
Expedition Overview
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Altitude: 7,439 m
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Region: Kokshaal-Too Range, Kyrgyzstan / China border
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Difficulty: Russian grades 5A–6A
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Style: Classic expedition with staged acclimatization
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Duration: 27 days
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Season: Summer (July–August)
The expedition follows a proven acclimatization strategy with multiple rotations, reserve days for weather, and a classic summit push via the South Inylchek route. Camps are established progressively up to Camp 5 at approximately 6,900 m.