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Climbing Above 7,000 m in the Pamir and Tien Shan

High-Altitude Expedition Opportunities — Season 2026

Central Asia remains one of the world’s premier regions for classic high-altitude mountaineering. The Pamir and Tien Shan ranges offer a unique concentration of 7,000-meter peaks, combining logistical accessibility, vast glaciated terrain, and routes that range from technically moderate to extremely demanding.

For the 2026 season, climbers can choose from fully guided ascents, logistics-supported expeditions, and independent alpine-style objectives — all supported by established base camps and professional expedition infrastructure.

Below is an overview of the main 7,000-meter opportunities available this season.

Lenin Peak (7,134 m), Pamirs — Kyrgyzstan

The Classic First Seven-Thousander

Lenin Peak is widely regarded as the most accessible and structured introduction to 7,000-meter mountaineering. The classic route from Achik-Tash Base Camp follows a logical glacial line with no technical rock climbing, yet demands strong physical conditioning, glacier travel skills, and solid acclimatization.

For 2026, guided ascents are offered on guaranteed departure dates, with full camp infrastructure up to 6,100 m, professional high-altitude guides (1 guide per 3 climbers), and a well-tested acclimatization schedule. This program is ideal for climbers stepping into true expedition-style altitude while benefiting from strong logistical and safety support.

🔗 Main article:
https://climberca.com/index.php/15-guaranteed-departure-date-expedition-to-lenin-peak/

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Ismoil Somoni (Communism) Peak & Korzhenevskaya (Ozodi) Peak

Two legendary 7,000-meter summits. One world-class base camp. One complete expedition solution.

Welcome to the heart of the Central Pamir — the Moskvina area — where two of the most iconic mountains on the planet rise above the Pamirskoe Plateau:

  • Ismoil Somoni Peak (formerly Communism Peak) — 7,495 m
  • Korzhenevskaya Peak (Peak Ozodi) — 7,105 m

These peaks stand face to face above massive glaciers, offering classic Soviet-era routes, extreme altitude, serious expedition logistics, and an authentic high-mountain experience for experienced alpinists.

Why the Central Pamir (Moskvina) Is Unique

  • Home to two of the three 7,000 m peaks of the Pamirs
  • Access to the Fedchenko Glacier (71.2 km) — the longest glacier in Central Asia
  • Vast, remote terrain with true expedition-style climbing
  • A shared base camp for both peaks at 4,100 m, optimizing acclimatization and logistics

Moskvina Base Camp is strategically located at the junction of the Walter(a) and Moskvina glaciers, beside an alpine lake, and serves as the operational hub for all ascents in the region.

Best Climbing Season

The Pamir climate is harsh and unpredictable, with a short but well-defined season:

Optimal window: mid-July – August 20

This period offers the most stable weather, safer glacier conditions, and established route infrastructure.