Khan Tengri Expedition 2026
7010 m | Central Tien Shan | Kyrgyzstan / Kazakhstan
Khan Tengri (7010 m) is one of the most iconic peaks of the Central Tien Shan and a true classic of high-altitude mountaineering. Rising on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, this striking marble pyramid is renowned not only for its exceptional beauty, but also for its serious alpine character.
Often considered more technically demanding than higher neighboring peaks, Khan Tengri offers sustained exposure, complex glaciated terrain, objectively dangerous icefalls, avalanche-prone slopes, and an exposed summit ridge. Rapid weather changes and strong winds are typical and require solid preparation and sound decision-making.
This expedition follows the classic South Inylchek route via the Semenov Glacier and is intended for climbers with prior high-altitude experience who are prepared for a demanding alpine ascent supported by professional logistics and infrastructure.
Expedition Overview
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Peak: Khan Tengri
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Elevation: 7010 m
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Region: Central Tien Shan
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Season: July – August
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Duration: 21 days
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Reserve Days: 3
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Route: Classic South Inylchek Route (Semenov Glacier)
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Climbing Style: High-altitude alpine expedition
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Highest Camp: Camp 3 — 5800 m
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Base Camp: South Inylchek Base Camp — 4000 m
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Access: Helicopter transfer (Karkyra ↔ South Inylchek)
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Technical Difficulty: High