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Khan Tengri Expedition 2026

7010 m | Central Tien Shan | Kyrgyzstan / Kazakhstan

Khan Tengri (7010 m) is one of the most iconic peaks of the Central Tien Shan and a true classic of high-altitude mountaineering. Rising on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, this striking marble pyramid is renowned not only for its exceptional beauty, but also for its serious alpine character.

Often considered more technically demanding than higher neighboring peaks, Khan Tengri offers sustained exposure, complex glaciated terrain, objectively dangerous icefalls, avalanche-prone slopes, and an exposed summit ridge. Rapid weather changes and strong winds are typical and require solid preparation and sound decision-making.

This expedition follows the classic South Inylchek route via the Semenov Glacier and is intended for climbers with prior high-altitude experience who are prepared for a demanding alpine ascent supported by professional logistics and infrastructure.

Expedition Overview

  • Peak: Khan Tengri

  • Elevation: 7010 m

  • Region: Central Tien Shan

  • Season: July – August

  • Duration: 21 days

  • Reserve Days: 3

  • Route: Classic South Inylchek Route (Semenov Glacier)

  • Climbing Style: High-altitude alpine expedition

  • Highest Camp: Camp 3 — 5800 m

  • Base Camp: South Inylchek Base Camp — 4000 m

  • Access: Helicopter transfer (Karkyra ↔ South Inylchek)

  • Technical Difficulty: High

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Khan-Tengri peak

Khan Tengri Peak — North Side Expedition (7,010 m)

A classic 7,000-meter ascent in the heart of the Tien Shan

Khan Tengri (7,010 m) is one of the most iconic and technically demanding mountains of Central Asia. Rising as a sharp marble-and-ice pyramid above the North Inylchek Glacier, it is among the northernmost 7,000-meter peaks on the planet and one of the five summits required for the historic USSR Snow Leopard title.

This professionally guided expedition follows the North Side route, widely respected for its classic alpine character, comparatively more stable snow conditions, and modern logistical support from North Inylchek Base Camp.

Expedition Overview

  • Peak: Khan Tengri — 7,010 m (including ice cap)

  • Mountain Range: Tien Shan, Central Asia

  • Route: North Side (North Inylchek Glacier)

  • Dates: July 25 – August 14

  • Duration: 21 days

  • Format: Guided expedition with fixed camps & acclimatization rotations

  • Difficulty: Technical high-altitude climb (ice, snow, mixed terrain)

  • Best Season: Late July – mid-August

  • Base Camp: North Inylchek Base Camp — 4,000 m

Why Choose the North Side

  • Traditionally considered less avalanche-prone than the South Side (while still requiring professional risk management)

  • A more consistent and logical alpine line, favored by experienced climbers

  • Modern North Inylchek infrastructure offering logistics, medical support, communications, and comfort on par with southern approaches

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